engine stall/wont hold idle

[dudewtf]

just bought a z32 that needed new ignition coils and plugs. him and his mechanic said that all it needed

anyways long story short i replaced the plugs and coils and the car starts perfectly and sounds amazing when reved but cannot hold an idle. it just dies out.

i later noticed the CTS went out so i replaced that and im a noob but do you need to reset the ecu after you replace a new sensor. i heard reset takes 30 min? either way still wont hold an idle. still starts like a champ though.

dont know if this help but as i push the gas peddle to keep the car from dying it only responds if i push it fast and deep but will not react to slow and steady pushing or idling of the peddle. it will just die if i hold the gas peddle in one place.



thanks for the help.

oh i also changed the fuel filter and a few air/vac hoses and the balance bar gaskets or seals...

[Ace2cool]

First thing I would do is check the TPS for proper adjustment.

Next, is your PTU the new black style or the old style with the silver heatsink on the back? The old style is a recalled item through Nissan, and you could even get them to replace that for free. They were still doing the recall as of last year. Don't see why they would suddenly stop.

Lastly, these engines are absolutely notorious for corrosion building up on EVERY connector. Go through and clean all the connections on the MAF, TPS, coils, sensors, ect.

Good luck!

[dudewtf]

ill do this later today and give you an update thanks. im hoping its just a dirty MAF. as for the TPS, it looked all black. ill have to double check.

thanks again.

[es.biggs]

It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Check hoses, check the balance tube on the plenum, check hose clamps, make sure everything is tight and sealed. There are o-rings on the balance tube that make a vacuum seal. If one fell out during the spark plug and coil pack replacement it would definitely make a vacuum leak.

[Ace2cool]

^^He said he already did the balance tube seals. Though I do agree, it sounds like it could be a vacuum leak as well. My SVX did that, and it turned out to be the plenum bolts only finger-tight.

[dudewtf]

alright im about to go work on the car. just one fast question. im going to check the coil connecter and was wondering what voltage they are supposed to be at? also whats the v for most of the sensor connectors?

anyways ill take some pics later on while im working and maybe you all can identify some issues with my engine.

also i noticed today that the little white plastic container next to the fuel filter that holds fluid is full of black thin fluid???? wtf is that?

thanks again!

[marty1mc]

First, congrats on the Z. Second, I am suspicious of your mechanic. A coil pack going bad is a rare thing on these cars, let alone all 6 of them.

I agree with the above to check for vacuum leaks, tps, and MAF connections for your issue.

[dudewtf]

alright soo the tps volts were fluctuating like crazy when tested. im guessing thats bad? also cleaned the MAF, noticed the screen was warped liked someone pushed it inwards with their thump.

found a damaged vacuum hose and replaced it along with 2 others.

cleaned the throttle positioner.

idk i filmed it so ill post a vid soon

[dudewtf]

ignore my loud mouth gf lol and notice the squeeking. f*** alternator belt is whack and was f*** burning and smoking. checked the batttery power and it came up clean so i know the alt is working.

anyone know how much a MAF and TPS go for?



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDdNdsc1eU[/youtube]

[nissanfreak12]

If you are not geing an codes, really check your MAF, your car is doing exactly what mine is doing and my MAF just went out. Mine did throw code 12, like as previous stated, clean your connectors, this could be your issue

[300freekzx]

ignore my loud mouth gf lol and notice the squeeking. f**king alternator belt is whack and was f**king burning and smoking. checked the batttery power and it came up clean so i know the alt is working.

anyone know how much a MAF and TPS go for?



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDdNdsc1eU[/youtube]

They can be had for the cheap off of a Infiniti J30 since they rock the same engine. Junkyards are loaded with them because J30's are the baby momma 300zx. Hope this helps.

[es.biggs]

I would make sure the part numbers match to be safe - I know some of them match up but there might be some that are different. J30 is the same engine but intake is set up a little different and they might have used another MAF for certain models.

[nissanfreak12]

93-95 J30's work, unless you live phx, you wont be able to find them. Some bastards are snagging all of them up to sell them "refurbished". Not gonna say who, just have no proof, but its only obvious when all yards have no AFM in any of the cars, but a 96 j30 had one, btw the 96 has 3 wire not four.

[dudewtf]

update: akrught so i got the car runningby changing the MAF BUT. here are some weird factors.

left my bat unplugged all night last night. changed the MAF today BUT

the MAF the shop gave me is a nissan one but it only has 4 copper prons/rods on the sensor connector where as the old one from my car has 5 along with the plug with 5 ABCDE and F is left without one.

the new one has BCDE and A and F are leftwithout the copper pron things. anyways long story short i put the new MAF in and the car holds a darn idle!!!!! wooooo

down side the check engine light is now on AND the car seems to be in LIMP mode. the cars RPMs will NOT go over 2200 to 2500 RPMs. ill post a video in a sec. any suggestions though?

also my coolent temp sensor/gauge still doesnt work. can this be because the water temp sensor?

[dudewtf]

try to ignore the high squeeching. thats my damn alt belt burning or something.

also can i drive the car like this?? because i have no other way to get to work


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUYRBa5bZiU[/youtube]

[nissanfreak12]

Have you checked the codes again? If you cant rev past 2200 or so you are in limp mode. make sure your connectors are clean and nothing else is unplugged.

That is weird you have five prongs, mine has 4 but i have a 92. I also thought it was strange that the fsm shows five as well, hmmm.

You can drive it, I personally wouldn't, possiblity of damaging something is too great. besides it will just irritate ou to no end. Try and call up where you got the MAF and let hem know, maybe early 90's had a diff one, but check everything first.

Coolant temp gauge is the sensor to the right of the temp sensor, it should have one wire coming out and the CTS has two with a crappy plastic connector that easil breaks.

[dudewtf]

Called the plae I got the part from and I told em to look up a 89 since my car was made jul of 89. The inner part has another circle which contains thhe little sesnsor wire and it has 6 copper prons.


Called a nissan mechanic and he says my car might be in safe mode because of the new part they gave me. Says I need 5 copper prons down side I've called every part shop in town and they do not carry my part. All have 4 prons

[dudewtf]

update: got the right part with the five copper males and it solved my no idle problem.

the car is out of limp mode and holds an idle. and runs strong.

[es.biggs]

Awesome man, thanks for posting an update, and good job fixing it!