Engine serial number

[Fireopal7]

I'm trying to identify a TT motor I bought several years ago. Bought the motor from a guy on south side of Louisville off the bypass. Engine had been hydrauliced and I was going to rebuild it, ended up using it for spare parts. The serial number is VG30 936787. Any of you gear heads out there know your block number and can help me out? Some might even know it by heart or wrote it down when they tore their engines down. If you have an engine that is torn down and you know the year of the car it came from, you will find the serial # on the right rear top of block behind where block mates with that head. If you know your #, please reply. It will help me "bracket" the year of my engine. Nissan kept records of which blocks were manufactured when and which car they went into, but DO NOT share this info with general public. So its up to you and me to figure this out. Thanks a million for any help.

[NolimitZ32]

Is there a specific reason you are trying to identify the engine or just for your general knowledge?

[Fireopal7]

I asked about lower plenum gaskets before. You recommended Courtesy/OEM parts. Courtesy shows 4 different gaskets. The mystery motor had old style injectors, so I know its an early block. Pre 93. I plan to use the lower plenum from the mystery motor to go with an upper plenum, same motor, I've been working on all winter. One my mods will be to delete the EGR system, valve and all plumbing. I have cut the EGR mount off the rear of the lower and shaved it down to the water cross over pipe/tube. If this lower is compatible with my 1990 block, I'm all set except for the gasket. I can clean up, paint and have the plenum from the mystery motor all ready to install with my modded out upper. If not I'll have to wait and mod the lower from the 1990 block in my car. I know pulling the lower with engine in car is a real pain, but I think I have come up with a work around to make it easier. The lower will come straight up off the studs after unbolting EGR valve and leaving it in place till after plenum is out. All that is needed is cut a relief in the back timing cover plate for the idler pulley bolt to pass thru and immobilizing the cam pulleys. Then make a patch for the rear cover after everything is back together. I have seen an engine, in car, with the lower plenum removed and the EGR valve still in place. You don"t have to remove the 2 attaching bolts, they will back out far enough to clear the manifold before they hit the firewall. If I knew how to post pictures, I would post my mods. Upper is naked compared to OEM. water delete, shaved off bosses water plumbing mounts to, EGR delete, welded over holes and shaved smooth, PCV delete including the blocks where Valves mount and water lines pass thru, all the garbage off the bottom of the TB's including carbon canister vacumn ports, cruise control pulley off the bell crank and all casting seams smoothed. I would polish it out, but you don't just polish just once, so I will paint it. Powder coating prices are obscene so that's out too. So I really would like to get a positive ID on year of donor motor.

[NolimitZ32]

Hmmmm, I've read quite a bit on this but am yet to see evidence that a phase 2 upper plenum wont work with a Phase 1 lower or vice versa, if you want to confirm that the lower is Phase 1 than yes it is because the phase 1 injectors will only fit into a phase 1 plenum with phase 1 fuel rails, that alone should be enough for your confirmation. Also I don't believe I have ever seen a phase 2 JDM engine for sale, I am sure they are around but I have never heard of anyone buying one.