Engine Seized - 2005 Pathfinder, 115k mi.

[Patfinder05]

Engine seized up, can't turn over with wrench & cheater bar.
Unknown cause, until tear down.

neighbor part-time mechanic's recommendations:
1 tear down & rebuild engine
2 buy & install used engine
3 buy & install rebuilt engine
4 buy & install re-manufactured engine
5 buy & install new engine

I'm assuming that's in order of cost, low to high. Anyone have experience with this.

My first instinct is to have a more professional mechanic examine the engine to find cause and extent of damage.

What would you do with a limited budget and never wrecked SE that looks very good inside & out, lots of extras like 6 CD changer Bose, power windows - mirrors - drivers seat - sun roof, power adjustable pedals, adjustable steering wheel, etc.

Not ready to scrap it.

[macgiver]

mac , I think off the cuff - somebody with " 350Z Transplant" post around this same time shows what looks like a very clean used "JDM" engine ,used motor from Japan? I got a used Japanese transmission in J30 and it's as good as the original ever was (1st 2 owners were mean to car) and in between I had trans REBUILT , by idiots in a big famous co. (NOT AAMCO - AAmco usually OK) REBUILT ,to me is worst UNLESS your THE REBUILD SHOP yourself! Look at this way - luck OK, Cost of all parts ,machining, DONE RIGHT?? , vs. an engine , that's SEASONED , Japanese! , not messed up YET!, Warrantied right ? I believe this cheapest too , AND I believe next up in $$$ would be like @ MIN. = $1700+ more dollars.

[EdBwoy]

Option #2 for me - buy a used engine

I don't have experience with your vehicle specifically, but like mac above, I avoid rebuilds. Unless it comes with a warranty, but even then the labor costs of removal and installation again could get silly.

If it were an engine that is known for having problems, I would be cautious of a used engine.
Look at wreckers for a low mileage US engine. For JDM engines, in my experience with Nissans, they might be lower mileage but a few things would have to be tweaked adding up cost or complexity + you'd be the guinea pig, unless there's documentation of it working somewhere.

[QCtech]

You should check first why you engine seized. If I am not mistaken , the 2005 had the transmission radiator problem. A tube that is inside the water radiator(used as a cooler for the transmission oil) will leak and mix both transmission fluid to the engine, and water to the transmission. It was fixed by installing an external transmission oil radiator. Was your engine oil a milky color? Did you removed at least the oil pan lower cover to have a look ? Did you removed all spark plugs to make sure you do not have an hydro lock in one of the pistons??

[Patfinder05]

Thanks to everyone for the info and recommendations. I'm still waiting for the 2nd mechanics evaluation. I'll post back the results.

[macgiver]

mac , something to think about in meantime - a buddy back east w/Toyota 100kmi had "percieved" shifting problems and I told him goto Dealer specifically ask for cable adj. /check , no- he listens to his ripoff mech. (buddy has Zero aptitude for cars unfortunately) Gets a so called "Used" transmission , couple days later SAME NOT GOING into a certain gear , rippoff garage tells him "bring it in so we can ADJUST YOUR SHIFT CABLES! So now my buddy's transmission is sitting in rippoff garage's storage - waiting for a "Mark" . Makes you think about just where and HOW any shop has AQUIRED these used replacements. I've been lucky , and spent TIME discussing , checking,asking everything I could think of.

[Patfinder05]

Lots of those kinda places around - hard to avoid. Gotta have a bit of experience and knowledge just to evaluate the honesty and kind of work of the shop produces.

Sigh - it use to be easier back in the 60s when I could swap out a manual transmission, replace a water pump and radiator, replace a master cylinder, do my own oil changes and brake jobs. I even replaced shocks and leaf springs, as well as fix a horn button (required pulling the steering wheel.)

Oh, for the good ol' days - at least that's how I remember them.

[PathyPop]

Sigh - it use to be easier back in the 60s when I could swap out a manual transmission, replace a water pump and radiator, replace a master cylinder, do my own oil changes and brake jobs. I even replaced shocks and leaf springs, as well as fix a horn button (required pulling the steering wheel.)

Oh, for the good ol' days - at least that's how I remember them.

I second this, though more into the 70's and 80's for me. All that stuff was much easier, more room under the hood. Didn't bother using torque wrenches, no OBD either, or the complicated electronics, or fuel injection, smog equipment, etc. The quality was low, so was the reliability and I wouldn't want to go back, but could still do just about anything in our own garage.

[Patfinder05]

To QCtech: Dipstick shows medium amber color, drained some oil and it was not 'milky' so no leak from radiator which is still full & 'clear'.

To macgiver: 2nd mechanic was no help; said if 1st mechanic couldn't break it loose, then he didn't want to touch it but he didn't say why.
I'm ordering some Kroil and try that to unfreeze engine. I've been told to be patient with it - may take a few weeks of soaking before it can turn over.

To PathyPop: Not looking forward to all the new electronic stuff under the hood, but I can learn. I hope the Kroil works to free up the engine, then I may find out what went wrong. Incidently, I just found out that the fuel filter is INSIDE the fuel pump for this model year, 2005, and ONLY this model year. Yeah, makes since to replace a perfectly good fuel pump (at $500.00 + labor) in order to replace an >$20 dirty fuel filter.

[Rockwood]

Just curious - what noises or other symptoms did it have when it seized?

[Patfinder05]

It had started knocking and oil pressure was high. I checked the oil and it was about a qt low. So I added a qt. Then it froze.