Engine rebuilt, but doesn't start.

[prophetickai]

Ok, so I bought my 300zx a while back and it had leaks from the valve covers and I figured I might as well replace all the gaskets since it had 185K on the motor. I didn't have the cash for pistons and the whole nine or I would've done a complete rebuild. Unfortunately after getting everything back together, it won't start. The car ran with a slight miss before I put new gaskets in, so that prompted me to take it apart also :P I made sure it was TDC on #1, lined up everything by the timing marks, so in theory, she's in time. As you'll see from the remainder of my post, I've tried as much as I could think of before I decided I was too hungry and tired.

Tests
1. Checked all wiring harness verifying wires with diagram just to be sure.
2. Checked vacuum lines according to various diagrams I found. (Missing AIV solenoid noted.)
3. Checked fuel lines for positioning and for presence of fuel in cylinders with spark plugs removed one at a time. (Driver's side seemed a little leaner)
4. Pulled coil packs and put spark plug in each individually to test for spark... Hence finding my #3 wasn't firing, only to test voltage at the connector and find power. (Bad coil pack found.)
5. Pulled off Injen air tubes to make sure air wasn't the issue. (Considered starting fluid, but don't have any, yet.)
6. I attempted retarding/advancing timing through the CAS to make sure somehow that wasn't it.
7. I tried adjusting the idle screw at the AAC, succeeded in getting a bit more of an attempt at my engine having life.

Recap of Known Issues
1. My #3 has no spark. Dead coil pack.
2. Fuel is present on the passenger side, but seems a bit lean on the driver's side.
3. My AIV solenoid doesn't exist, assuming prior owner(s) removed it.

Questions...
I did an EGR delete at the same time since it was easy enough to do with heads taken off. My car just happens to be California Spec My concern with the EGR delete is that maybe the sensor that came off the EGR, (Exhaust Temperature Sensor, I believe...) May have something to do with this. I tried starting it first without the sensor plugged in, then thought maybe that was the issue, so I plugged it in, disconnected the battery for a while to make sure if it kicked a hidden code that didn't trip my Check Engine light, it had time to clear... When I tried to start it after plugging it in, it seemed to try a little harder as well. Does anyone know if this sensor has to be plugged in? I searched the forums but couldn't find mention of it.

[nissanfreak12]

I can tell you just because the "timing marks" are lined up does not mean its correct. Did you count the cogs on the timing belt between the markings on the pulleys? This is really the only way to be sure it is correctly done. In the FSM it will tell you how many between each marking. The marks on the covers are just for reference only.

Have you checked the ECU for codes? It could be something as simple as not being hooked up. Just because the engine light doesn't come on doesn't mean there isn't a code, best is to pull them directly from the ECU.

Are your injectors in spec? Have you pulled the CAS and check the function of the injector? Its a very easy process, this will tell you if the injectors are actually working. Try these things and report back.

[prophetickai]

Findings: Pretty sure it was out of time.

Oddly enough it took many tries of cranking before it made a sound similar to a starter slightly pushing the appendix out... Kind of a very loud grinding noise. So yeah, looks like I may have to buy those pistons after all. Here's hoping to no damage and no warped valves... hoping... I know better though. I counted the cogs on the upper side, but after looking through the FSM and not the FSM rebuilding file, I saw what you were talking about and noticed that the timing mark for the crank was on the sprocket, not the pulley. But if it was at TDC on #1, in theory it should've been lined up... Right? (Hopeful thought) We'll see once I start taking the covers off and check all of them. I wish I had looked in the FSM in addition to the Rebuild FSM portion, then I wouldn't have made this potential costly mistake.

[nissanfreak12]

Hope all turns out good for you, the most crucial one on counting is from the exhaust cam gear to the crank sprocket. It really helps marking every ten cogs, 59 is a lot when you have to move around.