Engine rebuild with new stock internals

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fabio420
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:05 am
Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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So I finally saved up some money, and am going to rebuild the engine to make my car run. I go to school so that means 2 things: 1) I need my car to run reliably 2)I don't have lots of money to do it. I found that to rebuild the engine with everything needed stock new (I'll be reusing the rods, crankshaft, and block) would cost me $600. This includes all bearings, pistons and rings, gaskets and main and head bolts. I have a small t3 48/42 turbo and am planning to run 9 psi. When I have more money and my time is not totally occupied with school, I plan to actually do a true rebuild. My question is this: Does anyone think the setup will hold reliably? I'm figuring that the amount of boost will yield ~240rwhp. Would it be OK, being that it's basically all new internals? Or do I have to get forged pistons at least?( again, I'm gonna get them eventually, just don't have money now, and I want my car back)


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fiznat
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If you have (serious) plans to rebuild it again with forged parts, I wouldnt waste your money doing a stock build now. Just because you want your car back now doesnt mean that its the best option to sacrifice, cut corners, and spend unnecessary money to get it.

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DammitBobby
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Boost and reliable is expensive. With that said yes you can achieve 240 rwhp on a stock built motor. Problem is that things start to break and need replacing. I started KAT project on a 166k motor it took it about 1500 miles before I started to get a rod knock at only 11psi. I am in the process of installing a stock motor somebody else rebuilt including the heads(only cost me 550 bucks). My goal is to push it around 350rwhp. The difference I have a new car and don`t have to worry if I blow this one up.

The other problem is that BOOST is ADDICTIVE!! You can not get enough!!240wrhp will only satisfy you for a little while then you will be tempted to add more boost! More boost equals more money and more stuff breaking!

fabio420
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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I know boost is adictive. That's why the car isn't running. I booste 14 psi. and didn't have the settings(timing+SAFC) right.I figured this was an option since so many people say stock internals are good for 300 hp. Being that everything would be brand new inside( like from a dealership) I had jus figured that it would hold 240rwhp no problem. Boost is addictive, but i think that my responsibility with school will keep me honest.

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virus77
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Car: 95 S14, 71 240z, 97 e320

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it would be cheaper and easier to drop in a used KA that some poor sap pulled out for his SR swap. Then build your motor on the side.

skatanic28
Posts: 397
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2002 5:35 am
Car: 96 240sx

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are you going to be doing all the work? or taking it to a machine shop? that would increase the cost of a rebuild quite a bit, so you might be better off picking up a used ka that is in good shape at that point.

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xekushnr
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virus77 wrote:it would be cheaper and easier to drop in a used KA that some poor sap pulled out for his SR swap. Then build your motor on the side.



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DammitBobby
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Or somebody who rebuilt the motor only to decide to go a different route

fabio420
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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I found a fully assembled ka block, but the ring lands are bad.There seems to be no cylinder damage, but I'm removing the pistons tomorrow to make sure. Can I just manually hone it, and use some old pistons I have that are in good shape with new rings? Is this even an option? If it is, this would definetly be the cheapest route so far, as any work I'll do myself and I'll only have to pay for new piston rings.The cheapest KA I found around is about $600. Am I way off here? I hope not. P.S. I'm not planning to touch any part of the block other than the pistons(hopefully). The block comes from a blown headfasket that did not overheat and sat afterward for about 2 months.

fabio420
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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DammitBobby wrote:Or somebody who rebuilt the motor only to decide to go a different route
yeah I wish!

duncan351
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I have 3 JE forged pistons for sale right now for $250. These are off the shelf pistons so all you have to do is order one more and you have complete set. I happen to have another set of forged pistons and don't need these so this would be the best buy for someone on a budget. Get a full set of pistons for $350. That's a deal!

Fabie 420, your gonna have to step up your engine managment. AFC & retarding base time isn't gonna cut it when pushing 14psi. You can go that cheap route @ about 7psi maybe but man I wouldn't even go any higher than that with out a real engine managment.

email me if interested: [email protected]
Modified by duncan351 at 1:37 PM 10/12/2005

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DammitBobby
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That is how I got my KA somebody after rebuilding it decided on another route:) I had to drive 540 miles round trip but only paid 550.00. It had over 1350 in parts!!

fabio420
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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DammitBobby wrote:That is how I got my KA somebody after rebuilding it decided on another route:) I had to drive 540 miles round trip but only paid 550.00. It had over 1350 in parts!!
That's lucky. If I could find that, I'd drive 10 hours

fabio420
Posts: 329
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se

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[QUOTE=duncan351]

Fabie 420, your gonna have to step up your engine managment. AFC & retarding base time isn't gonna cut it when pushing 14psi. You can go that cheap route @ about 7psi maybe but man I wouldn't even go any higher than that with out a real engine managment.

QUOTE]I plan to eventually get an EMS but for right now(money) and since my turbo is tiny and I'm gonna stay at 9 psi, It should hold with the 370 cc injectors. With it I shouldn't be pushing more than ~215rwhp.

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huguetpj
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Car: 93 KAT Coupe

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fabio420 wrote:I know boost is adictive. That's why the car isn't running. I booste 14 psi. and didn't have the settings(timing+SAFC) right.I figured this was an option since so many people say stock internals are good for 300 hp. Being that everything would be brand new inside( like from a dealership) I had jus figured that it would hold 240rwhp no problem. Boost is addictive, but i think that my responsibility with school will keep me honest.
I'm speaking from experience.... spun a bearing when running NA, but already had turbo plans. What did I do? Stock rebuild... hell I wasn't going to boost past 12PSI anyway. What happened? Blew a headgasket due to a spike @ 19PSI (don't ask), water got into the block... had to throw away the block. Ok, need to rebuil again. I'm using forged pistons but stock rods, since I won't be boosting past 15PSI. What happened? 2 rods out the block @ 18PSI. Now I'm rebuilding again. If I had saved up the first time.. I'll probably would be driving my car @ 18PSI all day long.

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98s14inaz
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That isn't typical. Stock rods are fine as long as you get them shot peened and the entire rotating assembly balanced. Shot peening doesn't really increase the strength but it does clean the surface of minor imperfections etc which can turn into failure under stress ie cracks etc.

The other thing to consider is your goals. I for one am not a dyno queen therefore could give two left nuts about peak power, more concerned with a usable power band and reliability (daily driver). Try to find a turbo/set up that is efficient in the rpm range you use most. A more efficient turbo will not need 18psi to reach the same number. You may want to put some arp hardware into your budget too (head and main studs).


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