Engine Rebuild Issue?

[JesterX18]

Im in the process of rebuilding my SR and I just finished installing all the bearings. But I need to use a 1/2" ratchet on the end of the crank and a lot of force to turn it. It doesn't feel like anythings grinding, but its definitely tight. The head isn't even installed yet. I used OEM main bearings and followed manufacturers torque sequence and angles. I used tomei perfomance rod bearings which essentially are nissan oem bearings and eagle rods. I torqued the eagle rods to 43 ft lbs.(There Spec) Although Nissans oem spec is like 32 ft lbs. So due to it being so tight i loosened the rod bolts. The Engine still needs a 1/2" ratched to spin, but i dont have to really strain to turn it. So basically my questions are... is a little resistance normal? Does anyone else use a different torque spec on the eagle rods? I plastigauged these bearings,but the caps and rods were only torqued down till pretty tight and the clearances looked okay... any input from some SR builders would be appreciated...

[the converted]

What clearances did you end up with? Assembly lube? The last one I built I could practically spin with a finger.

[JesterX18]

Really... thats what i figured i knew it felt too tight... Well i used thicker motor oil instead of assembly lube for the bearings. Im gonna have to pull off the caps tommorrow and see if maybe the thrust washers slipped out of place or something. Im gonna regauge the bearing clearances again...but im starting to suspect i might need to get this engine align honed. I know these bearings are the ones i need. I used nissans table for bearing selection, and even double checked with snap gauges and .0001 micrometers for all journals and bores of rods and caps... sucks, but thanks for letting me know that its def. to tight...

[the converted]

I personally think that Nissan's specs are a little too tight. They are about half of what I usually build to, so I aim for the largest clearances that they recommend just to make myself feel better. If you have access to a .0001" mic, you probably have a machinist straight edge to check the main alignment.

[idahotuner]

mine spun just like a stock motor

[JesterX18]

I used the online manuals at 240 edge.com but they dont seem to give a spec for main bore alignment. If anyone has the spec or knows where to find it I would appreciate it...

[duffman1278]

There should be quite a bit of resistance but if you put a socket and ratchet on there you should be able to spin it with minimal force. I'm talking like 5-10 pounds of force on the ratchet.

[the converted]

I just dug through the FSM and couldn't find any specs either. What did you end up with for bearing clearances? I still think Nissan's spec of 0.0002"-0.0009" is too tight.

EDIT: Just found a spec for a general engine site that said 0.0015" is the limit. Also, have you checked run out on the crankshaft?

[JesterX18]

Alright So I plastigauged the bearings and heres what i got. Now numbered as per the main cap in inches: #5= .0005 #4=.0010 #3= .0010 #2=.0008 #1=.0008 Now when I do the angled portion of the final torque. I get the angle by drawing a dry erase line on the bolt head and then use a protractor to mark 50 degrees. So that probably why theres a little variety. But as per nissans specs .0002-.0009 and .002 max they are all in...Now the crank was profesionally checked over at the machine shop when they balanced and polished the assembly... so it should be ok... Now without the rods torqued it turns with around ten pounds of force. Thats without the cylinder head too... When the eagle rods are torqued to 43lbs.. forget it i need to used like 40 or more pounds of force to turn this motor. I still have to plastigauge the rods, but i know that theres already a problem there.... Does anyone else torque ealge rods to a different torque or have this problem... and resolved it somehow...

[JesterX18]

Alright so I plastigauged my eagle rods and I came up with clearances between .0008 and .00020. Spec is .0008 to .0018. So my bearing are all good... Right now i have all rods torqued to 43 ftlbs. and the caps untorqued and it takes 30lbs of effort with the torque wrench to turn the crank. I am using a thick motor oil for my assembly lube. Should i actually be using assembly lube... is it slipperier? I have yet to check my main bore alignment, but that looks like the only thing left it might be...does anyone where might i be able to pick up a machinist straight edge and can someone explain the procedure as i couldnt really find it on google...

[JesterX18]

I found everything i wanted to know about main bore alignment checking. The spec is half your max oil clearance. So if you can fit a .001 inch feeler gauge under the edge at any spot then its out and needs to be align honed or bored.