Engine pull for upper oil pan?

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

Post

Just wondering if the job would be a bit shorter if there was a way to reseal the upper oil pan while engine stayed near the bay. I know it would have to be lifted somewhat, but just figured I'd ask what else would need to be done. . .Drop crossmember and that be it?


User avatar
DuckyD
Posts: 504
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:27 am
Car: 1995 240SX
Contact:

Post

The problem is that the motor mounts are bolted to the front subframe.

Here at the shop, we support the engine with one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html
Image

Then we are able to drop the front subframe and work on the engine.

This is an example of an SR20DET that we were working on earlier this week.
Noticed the previous mechanic took some liberties with the oil pickup haha We put an S14 SR pickup on there instead.

Image

User avatar
zach-Ka
Posts: 1549
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:08 am
Car: 1990 240sx (SR)
Location: Greeneville, TN

Post

What kind of work are you needing to do?

User avatar
DuckyD
Posts: 504
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:27 am
Car: 1995 240SX
Contact:

Post

zach-Ka wrote:What kind of work are you needing to do?
CRyan wrote:...if there was a way to reseal the upper oil pan...

User avatar
zach-Ka
Posts: 1549
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:08 am
Car: 1990 240sx (SR)
Location: Greeneville, TN

Post

Thank you sir, I have ADD and it's hard to take in what I read.
If you have a cherry picker then you can just unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up a bit and you should have plenty of room to do what you need to. You will have to remove the lower pan and oil pick-up tube before-hand though.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

DuckyD wrote:The problem is that the motor mounts are bolted to the front subframe.

Here at the shop, we support the engine with one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html
Image

Then we are able to drop the front subframe and work on the engine.

This is an example of an SR20DET that we were working on earlier this week.
Noticed the previous mechanic took some liberties with the oil pickup haha We put an S14 SR pickup on there instead.

Image
I've redone many oil pans using one of those engine supports. It's also a great way to work on a timing chain without removing the motor.

User avatar
CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

Post

Thanks for the responses, guys. Tomorrow morning will be my time to shine, as they say. I have a hoist and will probably just let up off the engine mounts. I'll probably clean up the subframe, etc. I just hope to god this doesn't take more than a day to do. Anyone have an estimated time of completion? I have every tool needed, and a few experienced techs along with myself (not saying much)

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

A couple hours should be the max. If you've got some good swivel sockets, you should be able to work around the crossmember without having to pull it. You just need to lift the engine up a little to get it off the mounts so you can reach some of the bolts and slide the pan out. Don't forget about the two hidden 10mm nuts behind the view plate in the bell housing area (it would suck to snap those and then have to pull the motor to replace the seal carrier).

User avatar
CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

Post

Hijacker wrote:A couple hours should be the max. If you've got some good swivel sockets, you should be able to work around the crossmember without having to pull it. You just need to lift the engine up a little to get it off the mounts so you can reach some of the bolts and slide the pan out. Don't forget about the two hidden 10mm nuts behind the view plate in the bell housing area (it would suck to snap those and then have to pull the motor to replace the seal carrier).
Wow, thanks! Knowing that makes me feel a lot better about doing this, without dropping the crossmember!

I think Hijacker has been my idol since the first time I looked at a 240SX.

Seishuku
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 6:19 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan S12, 5-speed, SR20DE+T 50trim T3@15PSI, Megasquirt 1 029y4

Post

On my S12, I wasn't able to get the pan to clear my crossmember, even jacking the engine up as high as I could. But maybe there's more room between the trans tunnel on an S13/S14.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”