Ok first off I got a '92 240sx and I know very little about cars but I have had help from a friend who has a '90 fairlady z and a '84 300z (not sure on years) and is going to Lincoln Automotive Technical School(so he will probably read your responses and know what your talking about more than I).

My car will run for a while and then suddenly shut off. It doesn't sputter or gradually stop running, it stops running whether I am moving or stopped. I was told by a shop, my friend and another mechanic that it was the fuel injectors (the coils in the fuel injectors) so I bought 4 new ones and my friend put them in for me and now I am running on all four cylinders but soon after we replaced them the car died the same way. it wont start back up and even when I'm still moving and try and put it in first and drop the clutch to start it it still don't do anything and just feels like I'm hitting the brakes. Idk if this is any help but Checker checked the battery, starter and alternator and tell me those are perfect.

Ask any questions and please help I love my 240 and I don't wanna give her up!

Have you checked the ECU codes yet?

Alright read up on those and I will try again cuz I got a 20.... i think.... when I put the ignition in but there is nothing under "20". but then it said 55. but a 55(normal engine management system operation is indicated) according to http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html I'm afraid this makes things harder.

You want the 240 forum.

It might be the mass airflow sensor (MAF). I dunno.

Hope you get it sorted out!

thanks! ill text my friend I think he comes over later today. he will check the ECU again too.

I'll move this thread for you.
Usually if something dies gradually, its almost like you lost fuel pressure... so make sure there is plenty of gas in the tank, no obstructions in the line (check/replace your fuel filter), and your fuel pump works.

Oops, I read it as though it gradually shut off... if its abrupt, maybe check into your coolant temp sensor. My 240 used to do the same thing... the coolant temp sensor would read that the engine was -40 degrees, and absolutely DUMP fuel in there. Check your oil too... make sure its not contaminated with gasoline.

Alright not much changed but thought id update. Uh went to get a new coolant sensor at napa and he has one but he said I should do more research before buying stuff. My friend did do a quick check with his voltmeter thing and everything looked good but we didn't have a list of what the correct amp or wattage should be. the guy at napa did say the computer on the distributor is sometimes known to shut off when they get warm.

I guess what I wanna know is should I fork out $200 to have a mechanic look at it and guess what's wrong(thats what happened when i took it in a month ago and he said it was the injectors but turns out its not cuz we bought new ones) or idk just start with buying new coolant temp sensor and praying thats it? Or possibly give me some possible things that I can check to narrow my options?

alright redid the ECU codes and got 11(camshaft sensor), 12(MAF sensor), 21(Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning).
Ill start sving for MAF, ill just get a camshaft sensor and I'll try and read up on the last one cuz I dont get what that is.

Ok so I paid a little over 500 for a brand new MAF original from nissan, put it in, and drove for a few days and yesterday it died. I have spent 1,000 on this car so far and it STILL doesnt run and i dont even know if those parts were actually broken cuz the car still dies. Plz someone help me I REALLY dont wanna sell my car but with a baby on the way im at the breaking point.

Holy crap man, sorry you bought a new MAF. I wish I had saw this thread sooner so I could tell you not to do that. Shoot, I have a spare 240 MAF that I could have given you. Also, MAFs usually aren't an intermittent problem. Typically when they go, they GO. Then the car goes into limp mode. It'll still start and drive, but you wont be able to rev past 2600 RPM or something.

Also, I don't know if its just me, but I have never, EVER been to a good NAPA. I've been to about 5, and either the guys have absolutely no idea what they are talking about, or they refuse to accept a core because it has a scratch on it, or they look up/sell you the wrong part. If I were you, I'd get a coolant temp sensor from www.courtesyparts.com
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22630j-eng ... cPath=1418&
$25...
Really what you need to do is start going through a list next time this happens... check to see if you're getting spark, and fuel, or too much fuel, etc.
Also, the KA24DE doesn't have a camshaft sensor, where are you looking up these ECU codes?

alright well hmmm. k ill see about ordering a coolant temp sensor from courtesy parts. The site was http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html

Update! Alright so my friend suggested it was an ECU problem so I bought one for 30 and put it in and these past few days it has been running well. The check engine light has been flickering strangely with no rhyme or reason with the ecu telling me everything is ok so I'm worried but hopeful.

yeah, flickering CEL light is a little funky. Keep us posted.

Disappointment....She died... Half tank of gas cold night(dies on both hot days and cold nights) still turns over and still has power to everything. Ill tow her home tomorrow and possibly invest in a voltmeter and use Chilton's to start checking everything.

I may feel really stupid buuuut it might be the fuel pump. It doesn't make sense still but the lines were empty and when I turned the key with the fuel line disconnected and pointing into a container nothing came out. Whether its THE problom or A problem it shall be fixed. Ordering one tomorrow.

Alright it isn't the fuel pump. We tested the car and this is what we did:
1. started and let can idle until it died
2. pulled fuel line off engine and pointed it into a cleaned milk carton and turned the key and got no gas coming out
3.pulled the key out completely from the ignition then put it back in and turned it and got lots of gas pouring out alot of the fuel line into the carton
4.turned the key back enough to stop it from trying to start then turned it back on toi try and start and got gas again pouring out
5.turned key totally off and out then put it back in and turned it on and got gas once again.
6.hooked up the hose back to the engine and turned key and got no start
7.turned key off and out then back in and turned to ingnition and no start.
8.last time took the fuel line back off and into carton and turned the key and gas came poring out.

I am so lost. With an ecu bought in working condition so my next question is, Is there a part of the car that would somehow make the ecu not allow the car to ignite and/or not let the fuel pump to operate?
My uneducated guess is something is getting incorrect readings and telling the ecu something is wrong thus making the ecu not allow the engine to fire as a safety precaution. But what could do that? Possible crank angle sensor??


P.S.
If worse comes to worse should i fork out a couple hundred to get a nissan diagnostics done?

Wow there big fella. You said you got a code for MAF, cam sensor, and ignition circuit. All of these share 12v from ECCS relay. Start by testing for power from the ECCS relay when it won't run. This is a common failure for drop outs, and no starts.

Clear codes. Then drive till it fails again. Test for codes-- you will probably have the same codes after it fails.

Wow there big fella. You said you got a code for MAF, cam sensor, and ignition circuit. All of these share 12v from ECCS relay. Start by testing for power from the ECCS relay when it won't run. This is a common failure for drop outs, and no starts.

Clear codes. Then drive till it fails again. Test for codes-- you will probably have the same codes after it fails.

So I took it into Nissan dealership and they are amazing. For $130 they tested the whole car and found several things wrong. Among other things the source of the problem is the distributer was shorting out and a small issue is the battery grounding cable was shorter than when it was made thus not allowing it to be grounded to the proper points. So I ordered a new distributer which came in today and ill be putting that in this weekend.