Engine Mounts Removal

[drewusmaximus]

Hi all,
I pulled off my oil pan to redo the timing chain however, I want to replace the engine mounts while the engine is lifted. I removed the bolts that keep the engine brackets to the mounts in place. The brackets are off the nut but, I don't know how to take off the old mounts. They don't budge and there is no bolt below holding the mount down.
How do I remove the mounts?

I would like to get this project done fast because I won't be able to work on the car Mother's Day.

Thanks in advance!!

[GTR PrYdE]

Did you remove the top nut and bottom nut? Those are the only two (per side). You may need to use a pry bar or large flat head screwdriver to unstick the mounts, they have been there for a couple of decades right? You have to jack up the engine on each side to get the mounts out one at a time, it can be a pain, but from what I remember - loosen both nuts from both sides, jack engine with a slight tilt on the side you're going to remove, and reinstall the new mount right away. Then lower engine and lift again on the other side for maximum clearance.

Hope this helps.

Devin

[drewusmaximus]

I removed the top nut but, can't seem to find the bottom nut. I went under the subframe and don't see a bolt. I don't feel the bottom bolt either. I think that Is the last part I have to do, is to loosen the bottom bolt but, it seems there's nowhere to access it. Below the mount it looks as if the tension rod (that connects to the sway bar link) is bolted to that part of the subframe. I even checked to see if the bolt is hiding above that and it's not. This is my first time doing this so, I might be looking in the wrong area but, I just can't find the bottom bolts to the mounts...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Its a funky angle to try to get to it for sure. I've rounded a few off in my day (and had to sawsall the mount off).

Its probably worth making a custom tool for.

[drewusmaximus]

I found them. The driver' side is a PITA because the power steering stuff is in the way but, the passenger side is easy. But, you're right. I started on the pass side and it started to strip. I'm going to ave to sawzall them but, even that would be tough trying to cut above the nut. I'm getting too old for this.. lol

[GTR PrYdE]

I think I used an extension and universal joint socket to access them.

If you can access them, the engine mount brackets bolt onto the block with 4 bolts on each side. IIRC one side is easier than the other. That can help too if the nut is rounded.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm getting too old for this.. lol

[drewusmaximus]

The brackets that are on the block is off the mounts. The bottom nut that holds the mounts to the subframe are the issue. I finally found them but they are rusted on tight. I attempted to loosen the passenger side nut under the subframe but, as PapaSmurf@k3 said, he rounded a few and that is what is starting to happen. Now I'm trying to figure out how to sawzall between the subframe metal and the mount nut so that the mount will just fall out. I don't think there's space between the nut and the subframe.

PapaSmurf243, how were you able to sawzall the nut off?

Thanks in advance!

[centralcoaster33]

I've sprayed these with PB Blaster and then waited 24 hours. Then I put a flared crows foot on them, then extension, then breaker bar. The crows foot helps move the pivot point off to the side.

For cutting, if you have one, I would try a roto-zip type tool, with a cutting drill bit on it... I think. I don't know if it will fit, but in my head I would just put the drill up next to the nut and start cutting through it's side, towards the bolt.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I snuck the blade in between the subframe and the mount. It sucks because you have to saw through the anti-rotation tab as well. Note - I did this while the engine was removed and I was standing in the engine bay.

[drewusmaximus]

Oh boy.. The engine is still in bay. Actually the wrench got stripped. The nut is fine. I will attempt with a new wrench. If i strip the nut I'll try cutting between subframe and mount.

What Glover said! Lol

[PapaSmurf2k3]

haha seriously.
If I had to do it again, I'd just weld a socket to a bent wrench or something and make a specialty tool. Definitely worth it.

[drewusmaximus]

I don't own a welder but, I'll be getting a 120v MIG welder for father's day! I'm excited.
I didn't try a socket yet, just a wrench and the teeth wore down but, the bolt is fine. I will try a deep 14mm socket and hope it works..
Should I use a 6 or 12 point socket? I'm not sure which one would be best to try to break free those nuts..

[centralcoaster33]

Always 6pt for stubborn nuts and bolts. The more points you have, the closer to round you are... and you want to avoid round in this situation.

[drewusmaximus]

Exactly. Thanks! I'll go with the 6 point. I figured six point is better due to more side wall coverage.
I'm hoping this works. I would like to put everything back together by Saturday. I am really considering replacing the rod bearings, just because I have the pan off and it wouldn't hurt changing 27 year old bearings.
Should I take one apart and see what type of bearings are in there? Not sure if I should go with standard or if they even make other types of bearings. I think it's safe to assume the bearings were never changed but, I wouldn't know what bearings were used on the engine, since I am not a pro.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'd probably leave em ha.

Are you planning on doubling the power or anything?

[drewusmaximus]

Yes, next year I'm turboing the car. I would like to stick with the KA24E and tune it. I'm not looking for 400HP. I read an article that someone had the same rattle during acceleration but not during idle. He replaced his rod bearings and the rattle went away. I feel since the pan is off, I might as well replace them. It's a bit more work but, at least they will be new and the timing chain and tensioner are new and installed.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Technically to do it correctly, you're supposed to plasti-gauge the clearance and select bearings based on that.
I forgot you had the rattle... its probably a good idea to get it knocked out while you have access to it.

[drewusmaximus]

Well, I stripped the mount nuts from below. What's plan B for me PapaSmurf2k3? Sawzall?
Thanks in advance!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yup, You've gotta sawsall between the subframe and the mount. Its going to take a whlie, and its going to suck.

The only other thing I could think to try is to try a "surface drive" socket.

They grab the flats of the fastener as opposed to the corners. Apex is the brand I'm familiar with that makes that socket.

[drewusmaximus]

The sawing worked. You're right. It was a pain in the neck, literally, since it's a driveway project. Here's the thing, I lost the O ring for the pick up tube. Can I use sealant or should I order an O ring?

Thanks in advance!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can always try sealant and if it doesn't work, go back with the O-ring.

[drewusmaximus]

How do I tighten the engine mount bolt on the driver's side under the subframe? There's no access with the power steering plumbing in the way. I tried from underneath and the socket can't align with the nut and I used a wrench from a side angle but all I have is about an inch of leverage..

Thanks in advance...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Can you disconnect the plumbing from the mounts, or is it slightly flexible? I think I used some universal joints in the socket driveline (in some kind of funky manner) in order to get to it.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ironically, my motor mount seems to have collapsed. My exhaust just started rubbing my steering column. WEAK.