Engine Idles Between 1000 & 3000 rpm... HELP

[Aaron_9349]

Ok,

I did some reading, trying to find some help on this idle problem, but have really only found people who have an idle thats going too low, and the stuff I have found on lowering your idle, mostly talks of dealing with the throttle cable, and loosening it all the way until its closed.

I just built the engine up, and put the greddy turbo kit on so I know there could be numerous things causing my idle to run from 1000-3000rpm, but i'm trying to narrow it down.

Here are the mods to the engine to help out-Crower rods-Cp Pistons (9.0-1)-Toga Bearings-Copper Head gasket-PnP Head-5 angle valve job-S13 Cams-The greddy turbo kit-Nismo AFR-The greddy top feed 370cc's (came w/ kit)-IK22 Denso's-Nology Wires-Greddy FMIC-Blitz DD BOV-Greddy Emanage w/ optional ign. and inj. harness's-Greddy Profec E-01 w/ MAP sensor-New distributor cap

Now, keep in mind this all went in brand new at the same time.

When I originally tried to start the car, it would crank, but wouldn't fire. I checked it was getting air, and fuel, and spark... so I decided it was the timing. I adjusted the Distributer to run 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC), and it still wouldn't go. It eventually fired up at 20 (BTDC), but began to idle at 1000 and jump up and down to 3000rpm. PLUS, when I would hit the gas to raise the rpm's, it would go up, but it wouldn't come down below 4000rpm on its own (w/out turning of the car). This hold at 4000rpm eventually went away on its own, and I actually drove the car. Its first drive, it wouldn't go above 3000rpm... and would act like a rev limiter, but after about 10min of driving, it would let me go higher... yet the idle would still jump up and down between 1000 and 3000 whenever I was stopped, no matter if the clutch was engaged or not.

Now, I've never heard of an idle going that high, but I have heard of it jumping up and down like that. My question is (obviously) what is causing this, and what can I do to fix it.

Keep in mind, I have the E-manage and profec, which has an anti stall device, but it seems to only be able to control the idle under 1000rpm. Also, I don't know what effect those S13 Cams have on my 95 engine. Plus, my BOV is venting into the atmosphere, and is located just before the TB. And, it is running off the same vaccum line as the MAP sensor (if this has any affect).

I've been told it could be the vaccum lines leaking or the intercooler... IE getting air in behind the MAF. Or, that it could be my AAV valve... which I understand controls the idle. I've heard there is a screw on it that you can manually adjust the idle with it and then plug it back in, but I can't find this screw on it. Also, for some reason i still think my timing is off, despite the engine running, i still think it is off.

ANY HELP/ Ideas would be great. And any help on tuning it with the profec and emanage would help too. Thanks and sorry for the huge description.

[chandler]

try getting the map vacuum line by itself?

[spitz7985]

Aaron, I would definatly try posting this on freshalloy.com if you can't find any answers here. The car looks great, can't wait till the engine's broken in. I definatly want a ride. How many more miles until its broken in?

[klattr1]

sounds like your distributor is off a tooth.If its a distributor installed incorrectly, here's how to fix it.Set your motor to TDC. Then pull the spark plug wires off the distributor and pull off the distributor cap. You have to line up the silver rotor to where the #1 spark plug wire would go on the distributor. You have to hold the distributor cap right where it enters the pin sticking out of the distributor. Its cake after that. If this doesnt fix your problem, let me know and then we can move onto other ideas.Here's a useful pic showing whats supposed to line up with the motor at TDC on compression stroke:

[Aaron_9349]

When I originally put the distributor in, I did that, and set it to TDC and made sure the cap lined up with the #1 cylinder. It wouldn't start at all. I had to move the crank pulley to 20 degrees BTDC before it would fire up. This I did by moving the pulley to the 20 BTDC mark, and putting the distributor in at TDC setting it to line up with the number one cylinder.

I suppose I could try moving it to 25 degrees BTDC, but I'm a little causious because the 20 degree is the last mark on the pulley.

Update on the engine, the idle still jumps from 1000 to about 2250, but wants to sit at 1200. I can get it to sit there with the idle control function on the emanage sometimes, but if I do that, the car won't go over 2500 rpm because of the idle limiting it.

When driving, the engine seems to misfire now as well. Starts bogging out, and becomes very inconsistant. Like turning the engine off real quick and back on. Almost like I'm not getting fuel.

[spitz7985]

Do you have a wideband O2 sensor? You should pick one up, it would help diagnose this problem. Doesn't really sound like a fuel problem to me, but who knows.

Here's a good one, I've heard- http://attila.sdsu.edu/~mmikse...d.htmIt's from http://www.ka24de.com

[Aaron_9349]

Figured it out... TPS sensor went and the AAV went too. Talk about some luck though, day I figured it out my Temp sensor went and I blew my head gasket and warped my head! Thanks for your help though guys. I just have some crappy luck.