Today I want to take my Q to Jiffy Lube for an engine flush. I can hear lifters ticking at 179k. However, I have not yet updated my timing chain guides. Is that a problem or is this completely unrelated?
-Jesda
Engine Flush vs. Chain Guides
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Q451990
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The guide problem probably isn't causing the ticking, it's usually described to be a "fluttering" noise. I never heard a thing until they failed. What sort of flush do you mean? I would be very careful with any sort of chemical flush unless you trust the guys at your Jiffy Lube a lot more than I trust the ones here...
If it's the enviroloution flush, I'd say that would be safer. In any case, it's almost certain that your guides are at least cracked. I'd be very concerned that whatever you do will cause the guides to break apart and either wedge themselves inbetween the sprockets (throwing the chain) - or fall into the oil pan.
I'd try one or two ounces of Marvel Mystery oil and a fresh oil change... You want to be as gentle as possible with this engine until you replace the guides.
Heath
If it's the enviroloution flush, I'd say that would be safer. In any case, it's almost certain that your guides are at least cracked. I'd be very concerned that whatever you do will cause the guides to break apart and either wedge themselves inbetween the sprockets (throwing the chain) - or fall into the oil pan.
I'd try one or two ounces of Marvel Mystery oil and a fresh oil change... You want to be as gentle as possible with this engine until you replace the guides.
Heath
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Q451990
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I know we've been through this in other posts so I won't harp on it too much, but at $1200-2000 for guides, I don't understand why you'd risk going through a $5K+ engine replacement. Even at a hellacious interest rate of 20% on a credit card, you'd only pay $100 for three months on a $2K bill (getting you into the fall when you can pay it off). My guess is you can cut that interest to $50 or even $0 by shopping interest rates on cards. I get 0% and 3.99% offers every week!
Without being near T3, I wouldn't count on getting a good engine swap. You're typically better off with the engine you know vs. one you don't!
I made the mistake of putting off guides "until I could afford it" only to have them fail three weeks before a real estate closing and a planned trip to T3 with the proceedes. Paid $2800 to the dealer to fix the engine and was very lucky that the engine wasn't destroyed. Kicked myself several times for not having it done and floating on a CC for the few weeks - it wouldn't have even cost a dime since it would have fallen into the billing cycle grace period. $1800 lesson learned, and it could have been more like a $4000 lesson!
Heath
Without being near T3, I wouldn't count on getting a good engine swap. You're typically better off with the engine you know vs. one you don't!
I made the mistake of putting off guides "until I could afford it" only to have them fail three weeks before a real estate closing and a planned trip to T3 with the proceedes. Paid $2800 to the dealer to fix the engine and was very lucky that the engine wasn't destroyed. Kicked myself several times for not having it done and floating on a CC for the few weeks - it wouldn't have even cost a dime since it would have fallen into the billing cycle grace period. $1800 lesson learned, and it could have been more like a $4000 lesson!
Heath
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maxnix
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$4,000 in two months?
Let's see, $1,500 now or $5,500 this fall.Jesda wrote:Nope. Cant afford it. Period.This fall the Q gets new guides or a new engine, whatever comes first. Either way, I'll be able to afford both options but only later this year.
Seems like a high opportunity cost. I think I would be selling blood at this point.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t
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maxnix
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It's not you we don't trust, it's those betraying chain guides. Hate to see it happen again, and again...__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45tJesda wrote:You all will have to trust me on this one. But thanks for the concern.
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greg_atlanta
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Jesda wrote:Nope. Cant afford it. Period.This fall the Q gets new guides or a new engine, whatever comes first. Either way, I'll be able to afford both options but only later this year.
Then don't do anything agressive like an engine flush. Just change the oil every 3 months and stay below 4000-5000 rpms to be safe.
A lot of people on this board make assumptions that we all have financial resources (and time) to make such repairs a priority. Don't be discouraged.
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Q451990
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Jesda,
You know your financial situation better than anyone - so we all respect your judgment.
Given that you're not going to have the guides done in the near future, my other advice is this... my guide failure was a little odd in that from what I hear most engines just shut down. In my case I was lightly accelerating in heavy traffic from a stop light. So my low RPMs at failure probably mitigated the damage some, but I didn't prevent the failure.
When they failed, it suddenly it felt like I had several injectors fail (that was my first thought since I'd just replaced them a month or two earlier). Anyway I pulled over into a parking lot - the car still idled but was backfiring, etc. I even opened the hood to check for a disconnected harness, etc - then pulled it into a parking space before shutting it off. I've wondered several times if I had turned it off immediately and had it towed in - if I could have saved bending that one valve (and having the head pulled). Water under the bridge I know - but in any case if you have what feels like a major engine glitch, turn the car off immediately and have it towed. Don't let the technician start the car! Have them pull the rocker covers and turn the crank by hand to check for compression, etc...
Heath
You know your financial situation better than anyone - so we all respect your judgment.
Given that you're not going to have the guides done in the near future, my other advice is this... my guide failure was a little odd in that from what I hear most engines just shut down. In my case I was lightly accelerating in heavy traffic from a stop light. So my low RPMs at failure probably mitigated the damage some, but I didn't prevent the failure.
When they failed, it suddenly it felt like I had several injectors fail (that was my first thought since I'd just replaced them a month or two earlier). Anyway I pulled over into a parking lot - the car still idled but was backfiring, etc. I even opened the hood to check for a disconnected harness, etc - then pulled it into a parking space before shutting it off. I've wondered several times if I had turned it off immediately and had it towed in - if I could have saved bending that one valve (and having the head pulled). Water under the bridge I know - but in any case if you have what feels like a major engine glitch, turn the car off immediately and have it towed. Don't let the technician start the car! Have them pull the rocker covers and turn the crank by hand to check for compression, etc...
Heath
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elwesso
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Jesda... If your Q fails due to the guides, I will probably cry......
And I know the pain, I am a really poor guy (how much can a 17 year old make at minimum wage??) and I am really trying to save money for future repairs..... Namely the transmission....... And now as I look back I wished I would have bought a warranty, and been set for the next year......
And I know the pain, I am a really poor guy (how much can a 17 year old make at minimum wage??) and I am really trying to save money for future repairs..... Namely the transmission....... And now as I look back I wished I would have bought a warranty, and been set for the next year......
Jesda wrote:Nope. Cant afford it. Period.This fall the Q gets new guides or a new engine, whatever comes first. Either way, I'll be able to afford both options but only later this year.
I thinking this a great opportunity for someone.
If you lived within 300 miles of Louisville, I'd do the guides on the agreement you pay 2.5K in five months.
Now, I'm really curious, if the guides do go, what will you do for basic transport until the windfall?
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maxnix
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Then you can earn some extra bucks towards the Q45 guide job by running a shuttle service for Moms that are too busy to get their kids to all their activities!:)Jesda wrote: I'll get the MPV... I love that smooth V6, Pioneer sound system, and handles very as a RWD minivan. -Jesda
I'll bet forcast is not that far from St. Louis.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t
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I know it hurts to spend that money, but it's wise - as you know from my experience outlined on another thread you visited.
If I hadn't listened to the "Niconauts" (I hope you all don't find that insulting; it's meant to be a compliment!) I'd have been intercoursed.
I carded the guide job and it was $3300 Cdn I couldn't afford. But cheaper than the alternative.
Good luck!
If I hadn't listened to the "Niconauts" (I hope you all don't find that insulting; it's meant to be a compliment!) I'd have been intercoursed.
I carded the guide job and it was $3300 Cdn I couldn't afford. But cheaper than the alternative.
Good luck!
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szh
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Jesda wrote:My mom has some extra cars in the driveway. A 93 Mazda MPV with 49k (and still has a new car smell), a 2001 Civic, and a 2001 Accord. I'll get the MPV... I love that smooth V6, Pioneer sound system, and handles very as a RWD minivan.
-Jesda
I respect your decision, but .... why not put the Q away right now for the three or four months till you get to the guides and borrow the MPV now? No credit card debt for the moment then. Unless you do not want to acknowledge the "get a Honda" debate with your Mom.
Z
May your Q rest in perfect peace
Jesda,
That was the sound I heard one month before my Q died. If it starts getting even a little bit louder, you are SOL "sorrowfully out of luck"
Dude, between me and you, CUT your losses right now and sell the q right now for whatever you can get from it.
why. IF you cant afford to do the guides now, you are going to be out more than $6k. A shop might replace an engine for you for 6k, but at that price, they wont have the new guides. The only place that will put new guides in is T3. If you dont live around there, its going to cost you big bucks to get the engine to T3.
IF your engine goes, you are looking at 8k. If memory serves me correctly, I saw a 2000 nissan maxima on ebay for 8995 buy it now. Its not worth spending 6-8k on a 1st gen Q and trust me, if your engine goes, you will have to.
IF you can sell that Q on ebay right now for even $1000, you should take it and run. That will add 1k to the 6k you'll have in the fall and you can get a decent maxima or altima.
sell that car now, or fix it NOW. The other alternative is up to 8k of initial expense with only a 1 year warranty.
That was the sound I heard one month before my Q died. If it starts getting even a little bit louder, you are SOL "sorrowfully out of luck"
Dude, between me and you, CUT your losses right now and sell the q right now for whatever you can get from it.
why. IF you cant afford to do the guides now, you are going to be out more than $6k. A shop might replace an engine for you for 6k, but at that price, they wont have the new guides. The only place that will put new guides in is T3. If you dont live around there, its going to cost you big bucks to get the engine to T3.
IF your engine goes, you are looking at 8k. If memory serves me correctly, I saw a 2000 nissan maxima on ebay for 8995 buy it now. Its not worth spending 6-8k on a 1st gen Q and trust me, if your engine goes, you will have to.
IF you can sell that Q on ebay right now for even $1000, you should take it and run. That will add 1k to the 6k you'll have in the fall and you can get a decent maxima or altima.
sell that car now, or fix it NOW. The other alternative is up to 8k of initial expense with only a 1 year warranty.
LRQ:
You'll have to trust me with this decision. The ticking noise is one I know -very- well, and it naturally occurs in many vehicles after 150k. My Mazda 626, Ford Explorer, Mazda 929, and another Mazda 929 all had the sticky hydraulic lifter problem.
The noise goes away after warming up a bit, which leads me to conclude that sticky lifters are the cause of the sound. I test-drove a black M30 before acquiring my Q that had the same problem. An engine flush and/or a new oil pump are typically the solution, depending on the car and the age. Or I suppose I can pour in a can of B12 Chemtool prior to an oil change to clean things out, but I wanted to do it the thorough way. Heck, maybe its because I went from Mobil 1 10W30 to 5W30 at my last oil change.
You cant hear chain guides going bad, you just cant.
Furthermore, I'd be terribly unhappy in a plebian front-drive vanillamobile. Driving is not something I do to travel from point to point. Its something I actively do for personal pleasure.
I take cross-country drives at least once or twice a year, take the long way home from work and school, and somehow, behind the wheel of a Q45, everything is right with the world. You know those bizarre TV ads from 1989 with rocks and streams and waterfalls? They were right... Infiniti = Serenity.
Love the Altima and Maxima, but they arent for me. I'm an enthusiast and purist. There's motor oil in my blood, and what I travel in is not only a car, but also a friend and companion.
Like I said... at worst, I'll end up buying a 94-96 Q. And I'm actually better off parting out the 92 Q should things go sour.
-Jesda
You'll have to trust me with this decision. The ticking noise is one I know -very- well, and it naturally occurs in many vehicles after 150k. My Mazda 626, Ford Explorer, Mazda 929, and another Mazda 929 all had the sticky hydraulic lifter problem.
The noise goes away after warming up a bit, which leads me to conclude that sticky lifters are the cause of the sound. I test-drove a black M30 before acquiring my Q that had the same problem. An engine flush and/or a new oil pump are typically the solution, depending on the car and the age. Or I suppose I can pour in a can of B12 Chemtool prior to an oil change to clean things out, but I wanted to do it the thorough way. Heck, maybe its because I went from Mobil 1 10W30 to 5W30 at my last oil change.
You cant hear chain guides going bad, you just cant.
Furthermore, I'd be terribly unhappy in a plebian front-drive vanillamobile. Driving is not something I do to travel from point to point. Its something I actively do for personal pleasure.
I take cross-country drives at least once or twice a year, take the long way home from work and school, and somehow, behind the wheel of a Q45, everything is right with the world. You know those bizarre TV ads from 1989 with rocks and streams and waterfalls? They were right... Infiniti = Serenity.
Love the Altima and Maxima, but they arent for me. I'm an enthusiast and purist. There's motor oil in my blood, and what I travel in is not only a car, but also a friend and companion.
Like I said... at worst, I'll end up buying a 94-96 Q. And I'm actually better off parting out the 92 Q should things go sour.
-Jesda
Yeah, that was part of my original plan. I bought this Q planning to to put about 75k on it, sell it, and move on to another. Just getting my feet wet with this one.
Of course, I'm a nut and I get emotionally attached, preventing me from ever letting it go until it dies. The last car I owned, a Mazda 929, was sold to a local dealer. I drive past it daily and really do miss it. I wish someone would buy it so I wouldnt have to see it and feel like such a bad person for selling it.
Screw pragmatism. Cars are living creatures.
-Jesda
Of course, I'm a nut and I get emotionally attached, preventing me from ever letting it go until it dies. The last car I owned, a Mazda 929, was sold to a local dealer. I drive past it daily and really do miss it. I wish someone would buy it so I wouldnt have to see it and feel like such a bad person for selling it.
Screw pragmatism. Cars are living creatures.
-Jesda