Engine crapped out.

[kamuroz]

To start from the start, it sounded like a lifter tick... Would only tick when approaching 3000 rpm though. Didn't think much of it, my car is particularly finnicky and does that every time I need an oil change. Which I was going to do today before work. Well, start up the car Saturday, and it sounds like gravel in the engine. So I didn't drive it all weekend. Decided to limp it home last night and klunk, engine jolts and shuts down. Now normally I'd assume I seriously messed up a push rod or a rocker arm or something, but the oil is fine. As in, it's all there, not leaking, and no coolant mixed with it. When it crapped out though it blew all the coolant out, can't quite tell from where though. Can someone explain what happened? Can a stuck lifter/bent push rod blow a head gasket on the waterjacket side only? Or did I do something even worse..?

[t.mcginley.jr]

First, there aren't any pushrods in a VG30DE, just hydraulic lifters that sit directly on top of the valves. These are usually the cause of lifter tick.

What you just described sounds like you seriously blew a rod. By blew a rod, I mean you either bent or broke a rod or piston due to a bad bearing. When you drained the oil, you didn't see any metal flakes/bits in it?

[twinturbozxtacy]

^this

OR your timing belt broke, tensioner failed.... and you chewed up some valves as it is an interference engine. that could have lifted the head to allow coolant out or a broken off valve head could have cracked the water jacket or quench pads in the heads and let the coolant out...

[kamuroz]

I haven't drained the oil yet. Don't exactly have the time to take care of this myself considering my facilities. I'm taking it to a local shop who does good work, I'm just wanting y'all's opinions since you all are more familiar with these vehicles, and I don't wanna get financially raped. I'm just confused as to how it went from a ticking lifter to full coolant loss without it mixing with the oil... =\

In your opinion though, cause I'd like to keep the original engine if they end up doing a full replacement, if it was a snapped timing belt do you think the block would be salvagable? [sp?]


And yes, later I will drain the oil and get back to you on the metal bits. I doubt it was a rod though.. even after it started sounding like gravel, the sound seemed to be coming from the top of the number one cylinder [I think the number one is the headlight end driver side, little rusty] couldn't quite tell, but I was feeling almost no tapping vibrations on the passenger side... it almost sounded like a rocker arm tapping on the valve cover..

[twinturbozxtacy]

yeah probably fed up your heads, do you know when the timing belt was last done? i have seen tensioners fail and also pulley hearsing wear down so much that it causes interference. most likely if it were valve to piston the block should be salvageable, the heads are a no go depending which ones broke off or bent.

a few years back i did a head gasket and head swap on this kids 95 300zx. his dad did the timing belt ha ha. needless to say it was wrong. i pulled the heads and there were two valve heads sitting on top of piston 4, no cyl damage but the head was shot. threw new gaskets and heads on and off he went.

[kamuroz]

Alright, cool. thank you for your input. I still don't know exactly what happened yet, but I think it'll most likely be all head damage, which if that's the case [fingers crossed], I may be able to save a little money, or at least salvage the block to use for a build later. On average, if it is head damage and both need to be replaced [assuming it's just top end damage and EVERYTHING is fried], how much do you think it'd run for parts and labor? Or at least parts considering shops can vary on the extreme as far as labor costs..

[twinturbozxtacy]

honestly if i were in your shoes id do a jdm engine, wether you want to go tt or not is up to you. but i know around me the shop want 500 to bore and hone the block, 200 to shave the heads(plus the cost of your replacement heads_) then the new bearings, new pistons and rings etc... for about 700 you can get a jdm motor with like 70k on it and put another 200 into it for a new timing belt and be good for a long time. now if you have the cash the later would be choice but as you stated there is the cost of all that. THEN the cost of the shop to pull the old(either way, no getting around that) and installing the new/newly rebuilt engine. plus the cost of assembling the old engine if thats your route... either way you are getting it, just depends on how hard you want it lol... sorry.

[kamuroz]

I got ya... Just curious cause the shops around me are all quoting about 1k for a "new" engine... I'm using the term "new" loosely, cause it'll be a salvage yard engine more than likely.. In any case, if I have to go a full replacement route, it's still gonna cost a lot... I won't let the new engine touch my car until it's been torn down completely, inspected, cleaned, and reassembled... I'm just that kind of guy, I don't trust many mechanics, and most of those I do, won't touch the Z32.

I'd do the engine swap myself, but I have neither the time or the space to do it.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Where are you located kamuroz?

[kamuroz]

DFW, Texas... so freaking hot out here... But why do you ask?

[NolimitZ32]

Yeah I would ABSOLUTELY NOT do a JDM engine, its always a gamble and it seems that you aren't in any position to gamble at the moment. Your best bet is to find a wrecked (running condition just extensive body damage) J30 or Z32, ensure that it runs (go to the guys house or junkyard and start it, test compression etc, and swap the NA in until you can afford a TT swap or TT Build (if that's what you're after). Whatever you decide to do get a hold of Mark (300zxttman) he runs a salvage yard and can likely help you find what you are looking for and he's in Lake Charles so its a drive-able distance to you.

[t.mcginley.jr]

I asked so we could help you locate some people lol if you were in the northeast I'd sell you an NA engine, but Mark should be able to hook you up

[kamuroz]

Lake Charles LA?

I should be alright though as long as I can get it all funded. Regardless of engine condition, I want it to be torn down, checked, cleaned, and rebuilt before it's put in my car. I do appreciate the help though, I'm just glad that the shop isn't trying to screw me over. A lot of people I know have been screwed over by many of the local shops. I'd just never encountered something like this before, there's always been oil loss or oil coolant mixing in all the times I've heard of something like this.

Guy down here says he can get me an engine in good condition for about a grand. Don't know exactly where he wants to get it from though. Or what kind of condition it may be in.

[Hackysac300zx]

Kamuroz where at in DFW...im in Mansfield...

[kamuroz]

Same here, actually about a 15 minute walk from the Kennedale drag strip. The shop I was planning to use was Jazz just down the road. It's either them, or All Z Car, up off of Sun Valley. It's still just a matter of financing right now. I don't have much cash to work with at the moment.

[Hackysac300zx]

Alright yeah...heard some good things about all z car...I bartend at the applebees here in mansfield stop up any mon tues wed

[kamuroz]

Lol sounds good man, will do one day XD