engine cranks but won't start.

[spider_slayer]

ok, engine is in finally and i'm trying to get it running. the engine cranks but won't start. i'm 95% sure the engine is eathier not getting fuel or is flooded. the first time that i tried to crank a large amount of fuel started to leak out between the line and the hardline. i tightened the clamp but the engine is still not getting fuel.

i'm gonna try pulling the injectors but i can't seam to get them out. how did you guys get the injectors out of the rail? i can't get the phillips screw to turn at all.

[halnfl]

u don't need to take the injectors out of the rail, just take the rail loose from the manifold, u also need to see if u've got spark? give more info on what u've done to it and we can better help u.

[Chezedik]

The leakage is not a sign of flooding whatsoever. I suppose you could have a bad FPR, but the pump should give up before it leaks. Sounds to me like just a weak clamp job. So, more info?

[spider_slayer]

yea, i wrote that pretty quick earlier cause i was late for study group.....now i'm on my way to a party. so MUCH more info tommorow. but so far i havn't checked for spark. i did go over all of my grounds and checked the clamp, the clamp is tight and if i tighten it any more it will start cutting into the line.

maybe i got the lines crossed? the fuel feed line attaches to the lower fuel rail hard line and the return comes from the upper hard line on the rail correct?

the fuel pump is fine, i can hear it turning on when i turn the key over to accessory.

one thing i should mention is that there is no fluid in the clutch. i jsut put the transmission in netural. this shouldn't have anything do do with the engine turning over but does it?

i believe that the distributor is correct. i stabbed it twice at tdc jsut to make sure.

any more ideas? i'll actually check for fuel and spark tommorow.

[spider_slayer]

ok, so we checked for spark and the engine is getting spark. when we pulled the plugs they were saturated in fuel so its obviously getting fuel as well. we havn't pulled the injectors yet but will probally this friday cause i have a day off.

so i have confirmed that i'm getting air and spark. it seams like i'm getting fuel as well. any suggestions?

[Chezedik]

I would check the regulator also maybe torn injector o-ring or cracked injector. Also, have you ran codes? If so, what did you get? If you are running that rich, first you need to pull the plugs and disable ignition and crank it for 4*15seconds. This will clear the charge. It may start then, which will give you something to shoot for. After this is resolved DO NOT forget to change your oil. If you are running that rich, then your gas will be half oil. That will mean that you will be running oil that will not function very well as a lube.Also, yes there is a possibility that you got the fuel lines crossed, switch them and see if it will start. You could be dumping full line pressure into the injectors at idle, causing the engine to flood.

[spider_slayer]

i didn't even think of trying to get codes. i honestly didn't think you could get them if the car is not running. is the procedure the same as on the sr? i'll try and look it up in the fsm this week.

I'm gonna try switching the lines hopeflly tommorow morning. i'm 85% sure they are right though cause i labeled EVERYTHING! can you confirm that the fuel feed soft line connects to the lower hard line on the rail?

good call on changing the oil as well.

thanks for your help so far man, your been a real help through out this project.

[Chezedik]

I have to work on mine sometime today, I will look and see how the lines are hooked up, and don't worry, I have done it too.

EDIT: I don't know what is entailed in pulling codes on an SR, but I would imagine it is identical. You find the computer under the passenger side kick panel, unbolt it from the mount, turn the screw on the back to lock, then back to the original position. Count the blinks from either the light on the back of the computer or on the check engine light. Long pulses are number X in XY, and short pulses will be Y. You are finished when you reach code 55, they will ascend to that point. I have an FSM, but the info is everywhere. If you need code defs, just let me know.

[spider_slayer]

yep, pretty much the same. i probally won't be able to though till friday. i've got a pretty big econ exam coming up that is a little more important...

also, the other night i was jsut loking over the engine seeing if i could find anything that i missed and i did notice that there is a large apox. 1" nipple on the bottom of the stock intake piping. there is nothing connected to it. i also don't see any hoses that would connect to it. its on the left side of the main intake pipe about 3-2" before the flex tubing that connects to the tb right below the 2 recirculation hoses that come from the tb and the one that i believe connects to the block. is this something that needs to be capped off??

[Chezedik]

It is a inlet for a resonator. Cap it off, and your intake will get a little louder, but that is it.

[spider_slayer]

great, thanks for the info. also, the motor i believe is a 95 or up motor. so i had to switch out the tps sensors because the one on the motor had 2 connectors but the harness only has one plug. so swapped out the sensors and done. now while reconecting the tb lines i gapped the butterfly valve at about 1mm becasue as far as i know there is no bypass valve on the ka tb so a gap is needed to allow air flow at startup. if i'm wrong though, i'm guessing that could cause the engine to also dump to much fuel. i searched through the fsm and found no info. so i'll try setting it all the way closed tommorow to see what happens.

still havn't checked for codes, i'll do that tommorow though.

[Chezedik]

Don't worry about the injectors, they will not cause that problem, the problem is caused by regulation on the lines. Get dirty, and switch them. Now as far as the TPS, alot of S14 and S13's had two connections (mine does) it is just in case you have the auto trans you hook into the second, otherwise they are the same.

EDIT: I just went to the Advance Auto website and they list two parts, now I am worried myself. I will see if I can find out more about the TPS.

[spider_slayer]

thank you. this proves that i'm not crazy. i started a thread about 2 weeks ago about the 2 different types of tps sensors and virtually each response i got stated that i was wrong and the tps with only one connector does not exist. this is why i switched them.

anyway, i was jsut finishing up changing the fuel filter (and switching the lines) and i noticed that the clamp on the hard line was loose. so lose that i could turn it by hand. so i'm gonna see if that fixes anything tommorow.

i've gotta start getting ready for the night out so i'm gonna finish tommorow. will let you know how it goes.

[Chezedik]

I don't know if it matters though. I have the auto trans TPS, and I didn't change it. So it must work. I really think it only has an output for detent on the auto trans. I think if it is unplugged it is unimportant. But then again, it makes you wonder why they would make two parts when just one would have worked. Anyone else have any input on this?

[spider_slayer]

i doubt anyone has any input. no one what was going on when i started the other thread.

if it works i wish that i had left the tps alone. that would have been one less thing that can go wrong.

also, do you know if the butterfly valve has to be gapped? i don't think that our tb's have a bypass for start and idle do they?

[halnfl]

the pigtail coming off of the tps is the only thing u need to be worried about if u'r 5 speed. The solid connection on the tps is for the shift solenoids only and will not make any difference on a car with a 5 speed orignally. I bought one along time ago and swapped onto my 95 with a 5 speed to use it as a nitrous egagement switch and it worked fine. Alot of people with nitrous don't know that u can use an auto transmission tps for a full throttle activation switch. Well if u lived close I'd come check ur car out, I do driveability every single day at my shop, foreign, domestic, exotic, we get alot of Porche, Mercedes, Audi, and Bmw so it really helps out my trouble shooting skills. U never did say what all u exactly did to ur car, making a list of what u did could better help me help u.

[spider_slayer]

the old engine spun a bearing. picked up a junkyard engine to drop in.

well, i can make a list of things that i think may be the problem...

- i switched the tps sensors so it may not be set correctly.- i gapped the tb about 1mm at closed throttle because i don't believe that our cars have a bypass for idle or startup- i stabbed the distributor at tdc...and i'm only half sure that it in on the compression stroke- most most likely is is because of the fuel lines. as stated earlier i think they may have been crossed and i will finnish that friday and test some otherthings.

that sounds really cool thought workin in a shop on some exotic cars.

[Chezedik]

1) You can set the TPS using a multimeter and the FSM (which you can find in the 240sx section under the sticky)2) You want the TB to set as close to closed as you can get without it sticking. The idle is controlled via the IACV on the back of the intake manifold like a Volvo and not on the TB like a GM. One of the hoses that runs to your intake goes to it, and so it bypasses the TB altogether. Your big problem here will be that the idle will be high and it will be out of the range of adjustment. 3) With your distributor you need to turn the crank pulley until the 4th mark (turning CW to CCW), this should be 16' BTDC, unless you happened to get one of the ASP's before they fixed that problem. Then you stab the distributor with the rotor pointed at #1. 4) As for the fuel lines, you know what to do.

Good luck!

[HI NRG]

If your still having problems starting try checking the ground connections from the block to the chasis. Very simple mistake that alot of people make.

[Chezedik]

If you have one to spare, can I get a cam gear?

[spider_slayer]

ok, so i changed the fuel filter and switched the lines........nothing. the lines are right.

so i was messing with the distribuors and finally got it to where you could hear the car fire and kick the flywheel around and then die again. so i took the cap off of the distrubutor and the little piece of charcol fell out onto the ground.....now i thought that it is supose to be held between the 2 pincers on the rotor. so i'm guessing i jsut pinpointed my problem........can anyone second this?

[Chezedik]

The bit of charcoal is in the center of the cap to feed spark to the rotor. In any event a cap and rotor change should be in your future.

[mr_wizard]

I'm having the exact same problem man haha. I just swapped a 97 KA24DE into my 91 240sx and it turns over but I get nothing. If I can actually figure this out I'll let you know what did it.

[spider_slayer]

cool, well........not cool but thanks. i figured as much i just wasn't sure what had happened. this could be it.....this could end the suffering......

[Chezedik]

Any good word? Also, do you have spare cam gears?

[tiger]

You should really adjust your clutch pedal and bleed your clutch for starters... yes, if it's not adjusted right, your car won't start...

[mr_wizard]

Alright, it was a number of problems but I pretty much got it figured out. I got the timing thing straight, that was off a little. Also, my plug wires were on in the wrong order (doh) and my fuel lines were switched I switched the TPS and plugged my EGR valve up completely and that helped some as well.

If you don't have your EGR valve all the way on and TPS sensor swapped from the old motor that may be giving your motor too much gas and flooding it. After your sure the timing is ok, take a plug out after trying to start it and see if it has alot of gas on it, if so it's flooded. Then have someone try and start the car while your taking out the fuel pump fuse and putting it back in when neccessary, it should stop the excess fuel going in the motor... just to verify your getting too much gas for whatever reason. Make sure you don't have anything not hooked up on the motor, and also make sure you have put more coolant in the motor since you've tried turning it over... since then it has pulled most of it out of the radiator, so fill it back up, that will help. Finally, make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Check for cracked and loose hoses. Anyway, I have a few things to plug up and more coolant to get and I should be good to go. Good luck man.

[spider_slayer]

You should really adjust your clutch pedal and bleed your clutch for starters... yes, if it's not adjusted right, your car won't start...

i was pretty sure of this...the problem is that i have to replace the soft line cause it leaks. so i did TRY to bleed it but to no avail...

so i should be able to do that next week.

[own3d]

tomorrow we are switching to the other tps, rechecking the distributor, pulling the codes, and buying a clutch line from autozone just to see if thats the problem, Going back to harbor frieght cause those wrench holders were worthless, then your helping me change out the wheel studs on the probe. Call into work, give em the explosive diarrhea line again

and yes it is 5am and I havnt played any CS tonight

[spider_slayer]

code 55 ........ everything is ok......

own3d ...... work needs me, they will know if i lie. answer your damn phone and i'll come over right now.