engine coolant temp.sensor

[leesredgt]

ok ive looked in the thread above and i have found that a ka temp sensor will work on a rb20det but nothing specific/concrete about the rb25det.so will a 96 300zx engine coolant tempature sensor work or do i need somthing else.sorry if its already been asked but i cant seem to find it.thanks

[l0nestar]

Lee,

You should be able to get away with a KA-DE water temp sensor...

But please prove me wrong... ( I need to buy one too. )

[jsack]

i am using the ka sensor right now no probloms

[rb25drag]

Lee,

You should be able to get away with a KA-DE water temp sensor...

But please prove me wrong... ( I need to buy one too. )

I just went last week and bought a 98 240sx (DOHC) sensor and I had no luck with it, I couldnt get any of my temp gages to work, So I took it back and got another one same results, My old sensor out of the RB had a blue plug, the new ones had a Gray and red plug, Could have been the difference if they were all calibrated different. But if you guys find one to work LMK.

The blue sensor workes as far as reading temp, But mine seems to be reading backwards, lean cold and rich hot. SO I figured Bad sensor.

[l0nestar]

RB25drag,

Is the 98 DOHC sensor the same as a 93/94? (i.e. is it just listed as a KA-DE / non year specific)

What cluster are you using?

jsack,Do you happen to have the part # you used, or who the manufacturer / store purchased from?

Lee,What series 25 do you have? What cluster are you using, as well?

[l0nestar]

The blue sensor workes as far as reading temp, But mine seems to be reading backwards, lean cold and rich hot. SO I figured Bad sensor.

Maybe you got the wires backwards?

Just messin with ya man. That would be rather odd...Just to make sure, when you turn your ignition on, the gage goes straight to HOT, then when it gets up to temp, it goes down into cool?

[leesredgt]

i have a series 1 rb25 and im using the stock cluster but i had it recalibrated at ls automotive.i think i read somwer that a 91 300zx sesor would work but i dont want to waste money plus my gauges is working the only problem with my car is its cutting out at 2500-3000 rpm and then dying but its starts right back up and i think the maf is good b/c when i unplug it the car dies so could a bad coolant sensor be causeing my car to do that.

[jsack]

i have a s2 and i am using the stock gauges,i bought it from napa.i just recentley had my car tuned and i geuss the gauge is off a little at least that is what the guy who tuned it said.

[leesredgt]

were is the sensoron the engine?i know its blue but i cant find it i might be lookin right at it i just dont know,does any one have any picks?so my gauge not working right would be a result of this being bad right?and my car stuttering at 3000rpm would be b/c of this to right?thanks alot guys

[craz4240]

There should be 2 one for the gauge and one for the ecu......they are side by side on an rb20 on the coolant pipe that is right above the alternator.

I also took mine out of my old ka and used it (The ecu one) and it worked fine.I do have a more accurate gauge now however.

[leesredgt]

is this the same for the rb25det i really need to know which sensors will work i need to replace both of mine soon at least before thanksgiving if possible?

[rb25drag]

RB25drag,

Is the 98 DOHC sensor the same as a 93/94? (i.e. is it just listed as a KA-DE / non year specific)

What cluster are you using?

jsack,Do you happen to have the part # you used, or who the manufacturer / store purchased from?

Lee,What series 25 do you have? What cluster are you using, as well?

I bought mine at NAPA im pretty sure the DOHC's are all the same but don't quote me I have no proof.

Im using my stock s13 cluster, But I also have an electronic gauge I read temp from, Im pulling a ground from both and when one sensor isnt working neither works.

Im pretty sure the different color caps means there different calibrations. But again I have no proof just what I have experienced. So I put my old sensor back in that I could read a temp from and called it a day.

[rb25drag]

i have a series 1 rb25 and im using the stock cluster but i had it recalibrated at ls automotive.i think i read somwer that a 91 300zx sesor would work but i dont want to waste money plus my gauges is working the only problem with my car is its cutting out at 2500-3000 rpm and then dying but its starts right back up and i think the maf is good b/c when i unplug it the car dies so could a bad coolant sensor be causeing my car to do that.

I had a similar case with mine, Come to find out I had a bad ground, Try running a chassis ground to the MAF and see if that works.

[leesredgt]

were do i ground the maf in order for me to drive it.my car revs fine in neutral goes above 3000 rpm but when i drive it thats when it wont go above it.whicj ground did u end up having to fix.also so the temp sensor wouldnt have anything to do with this even the one going to the ecu?i would still like to replace mine b/c it takes for ever for my gauge to work? i dont wan to over heat it even though "my fans" are supposed to kick on but ive only seen them come on once and ive only seen the gauge work once but all i know is if i drive it like two seconds to the gas station and back since its only two houses away from me it should register atleast somthing i mean its not a diesel.

[rb25drag]

On your MAF you have a ground wire that you normally would hook into the original MAF harness, I think mine had a broke wire or bad connection, so I spliced that wire and ran it to a bolt on the frame, Make sure you clean the frame good so it gets good contact, Then you know for sure its got a good ground, I was able to rev mine past 3 grand too, but nothing while driving.

The water temp sensor wouldn't cause it not to rev any higher,

As for your gauge not working, That will be caused by a bad sensor.

But If I was you I would install an after market gauge to get a good reading, My stock gauge worked and never went past the half way mark, Until one day it got extremely hot, Boiling but the gauge still never passed half way, So your prob not getting a good reading at least a proper reading from you gauge anyways.

[leesredgt]

okay which one of the wires is the ground wire and what kinda of aftermarket gauge did buy.

[jsack]

you have a wide choice of gauges to choose from just pick one. i went with auto meter i had to retap my manifold though. got it done last night and i am glad i did couse my stock gauge was reading a little off..some guys just buy the inline temp connector.i was gonna go that route but i had all the taps and drill bits so i decided i could not wait for the inline connector to come...

[leesredgt]

okay i think im gonna get an autometer gauge so itll match my boost gauge. ok one more question while im thinking about it.i had my harness done by wiring speacalties so im not for sure whats grounded and what not but i did notice on my MAF plug/conector that there were only 4 wires coming from when there are five prongs on the inside of the plug could this be the ground ur talking about?its the wire closest to the filter side if ur looking at the car head on,like maybe its supposed to be like that but i dont know just thought i throw it out there.heres a couple pics of it




Modified by leesredgt at 12:41 PM 11/17/2007

[rb25drag]

I re-tapped my manifold too, I bought an Electronic water temp sensor,

As for you MAF Im not sure on your harness,Yours is totally diff from mine, I have the Z32 MAF, Its been so long since I wired it Ill have too look and see!!!! Ill try to look tom and see If I can give you a better answer.

[rb25drag]

Hey man I looked today for the MAF wiring. Mine is all taped up and I didnt feel like un-taping it, It would have been a mess. But Im sure you can find a wring diagram for which ever MAF you have and get the ground off it.

[leesredgt]

thats okay rb25drag i understand also to why im here i talked to yury at wiring speacalties about which coolant temp sensors to use he said that the ka sensors should work for both meaning the one for the ecu and the one for that gauge as he said that they are pretty much standard.hope that helps and well im gonna try to switch mine tomorrow and find out ill let u guys know.

[leesredgt]

okay first which sensor is the one wired one?second i changed that one out with my old ka sensor and now the car runs soooooooooooooo much smoother it still has a small blig right at 3000 but now it will climb pass it and i can actually drive it for once.

[Cpt_Impossible]

The single wire is the cluster temp probe. It has no bearing on the engine's performance, only on the gauge.

The two wired one is the ECU temp sensor. It needs to be operating well for the car to run correctly.

[leesredgt]

okay were can i get the one for the ecu