engine check light
engine check light
alright this might sound stupid, but i'll ask anyways. my engine check light has been coming on and off for quite some time now and i know i have to get a diagnostic/sensor test done but they are pretty pricey and i just don't have the money with school...i read up on the net however that 95 240 seem to had a problem with cross wirings on the sensors? does that make sense? any help would be appreciated...^_^
well....
the car is just shakey and louder but i need a new exhaust gasket manifold....the car is not smooth as it used to be...engine is a lil louder tho. i miss my baby!!!!
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MikeMurphy
- Posts: 824
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 12:20 pm
- Car: Guess
- Contact:
I have an OBDII 95 240sx and I simply got the flashing codes frmo the ECU. I went to a nissan stealership beforehand and they said it was $80 to diagnose the problem. Turned out it was just a loose crank angle sensor =) Im glad I did the 15 mins worth of work myself.
Do a search on how to get ECU codes, or go and buy an OBDII reader from anywhere. If I remember correctly they only go for $50 anyhow. Some 95s were OBDI and some were OBDII. Good time to find out.
Do a search on how to get ECU codes, or go and buy an OBDII reader from anywhere. If I remember correctly they only go for $50 anyhow. Some 95s were OBDI and some were OBDII. Good time to find out.
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MikeMurphy
- Posts: 824
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 12:20 pm
- Car: Guess
- Contact:
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CanadianCoch
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:26 am
Here you go, thank me later, lol
Once you’ve pulled the ECU and located the ‘mode selector’ screw on the side...
Turn the ignition switch to the on position, but do not start the engine. All of the 'dummy' lights in the dash should be on.
Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the side of the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Now wait at least 2 seconds, and then turn the screw back to its original position (fully counter clockwise).
The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code -
The number of long flashes is the 1st digit, and the number of short flashes is the 2nd digit...
So for example, a code 45 would be:
blink........blink........blink........blink - (short pause) - blink...blink...blink...blink...blink
If there is only one code, it will flash over and over and over...
If there is more than one code, it will flash the first, then the second, and so on...then just keep repeating the codes (in numerical order) over and over and over
Now you have 2 options:
To clear all stored codes and turn off the check engine light, turn the ‘mode selector’ screw fully clockwise. Wait at least 2 seconds, then turn the screw all the way back counter clockwise. Then start the car...
To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.
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COMPUTER CODES for Nissan Vehicles:
Probable 'trouble code' cause for Nissan vehicles 1984 and later...
11 - Camshaft position sensor
12 - Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor
13 - Coolant Temperature sensor circuit
14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor signal circuit is open
15 - Mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged
21 - Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning
22 - Idle speed control valve or circuit
23 - Idle switch (throttle valve switch) signal circuit open
24 - Park/Neutral switch malfunctioning
25 - Idle Air Control Valve
28 - Cooling fan
29 - Fuel system rich
31 - ECU internal problem
32 - EGR malfunction (California models)
33 - Front O2 sensor
34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor
35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor (California models)
36 - EGRC-BPT valve
37 - Closed Loop
41 - Intake Air temperature sensor
43 - Throttle Position Sensor
44 - No trouble codes stored in ECU
45 - Injector fuel leak (California models only)
51 - Fuel injector circuit open (California models only)
53 - Oxygen sensor (300ZX right side)
54 - Short between automatic transmission control unit (TCU) and ECU
55 - Normal engine management system operation is indicated – this means all is OK.
65 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 4
66 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 3
67 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 2
68 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 1
71 - Misfire Detected - Random
72 - Catalytic Converter Malfunction
74 - EVAP pressure sensor
75 - EVAP leak
76 - Fuel injection system
77 - Rear O2 sensor
81 - Vacuum cut bypass valve
82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 - Automatic transmission-to-Fuel Injection Communication Line
85 - VTC solenoid
87 - EVAP canister purge control
91 - Front oxygen sensor
95 - Crank Cog
98 - Coolant temperature sensor
103 - Park/neutral switch
105 - EGR and canister control valve (Solenoid)
108 - EVAP volume control
111 - Inhibitor Switch
112 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A/T
113 - A/T 1st Signal
114 - A/T 2nd Signal
115 - A/T 3rd Signal
116 - A/T 4th Signal or TCC
118 - Shift Solenoid/V A
121 - Shift Solenoid/V B
123 - Overrun Clutch S/V
124 - TOR Converter Clutch SV
125 - Line Pressure S/V
126 - Throttle Position Sensor A/T
127 - Engine Speed Signal
128 - Fluid Temp Sensor
Once you’ve pulled the ECU and located the ‘mode selector’ screw on the side...
Turn the ignition switch to the on position, but do not start the engine. All of the 'dummy' lights in the dash should be on.
Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the side of the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Now wait at least 2 seconds, and then turn the screw back to its original position (fully counter clockwise).
The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code -
The number of long flashes is the 1st digit, and the number of short flashes is the 2nd digit...
So for example, a code 45 would be:
blink........blink........blink........blink - (short pause) - blink...blink...blink...blink...blink
If there is only one code, it will flash over and over and over...
If there is more than one code, it will flash the first, then the second, and so on...then just keep repeating the codes (in numerical order) over and over and over
Now you have 2 options:
To clear all stored codes and turn off the check engine light, turn the ‘mode selector’ screw fully clockwise. Wait at least 2 seconds, then turn the screw all the way back counter clockwise. Then start the car...
To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMPUTER CODES for Nissan Vehicles:
Probable 'trouble code' cause for Nissan vehicles 1984 and later...
11 - Camshaft position sensor
12 - Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor
13 - Coolant Temperature sensor circuit
14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor signal circuit is open
15 - Mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged
21 - Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning
22 - Idle speed control valve or circuit
23 - Idle switch (throttle valve switch) signal circuit open
24 - Park/Neutral switch malfunctioning
25 - Idle Air Control Valve
28 - Cooling fan
29 - Fuel system rich
31 - ECU internal problem
32 - EGR malfunction (California models)
33 - Front O2 sensor
34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor
35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor (California models)
36 - EGRC-BPT valve
37 - Closed Loop
41 - Intake Air temperature sensor
43 - Throttle Position Sensor
44 - No trouble codes stored in ECU
45 - Injector fuel leak (California models only)
51 - Fuel injector circuit open (California models only)
53 - Oxygen sensor (300ZX right side)
54 - Short between automatic transmission control unit (TCU) and ECU
55 - Normal engine management system operation is indicated – this means all is OK.
65 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 4
66 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 3
67 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 2
68 - Misfire detected - cylinder no. 1
71 - Misfire Detected - Random
72 - Catalytic Converter Malfunction
74 - EVAP pressure sensor
75 - EVAP leak
76 - Fuel injection system
77 - Rear O2 sensor
81 - Vacuum cut bypass valve
82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 - Automatic transmission-to-Fuel Injection Communication Line
85 - VTC solenoid
87 - EVAP canister purge control
91 - Front oxygen sensor
95 - Crank Cog
98 - Coolant temperature sensor
103 - Park/neutral switch
105 - EGR and canister control valve (Solenoid)
108 - EVAP volume control
111 - Inhibitor Switch
112 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A/T
113 - A/T 1st Signal
114 - A/T 2nd Signal
115 - A/T 3rd Signal
116 - A/T 4th Signal or TCC
118 - Shift Solenoid/V A
121 - Shift Solenoid/V B
123 - Overrun Clutch S/V
124 - TOR Converter Clutch SV
125 - Line Pressure S/V
126 - Throttle Position Sensor A/T
127 - Engine Speed Signal
128 - Fluid Temp Sensor
Sorry to revive an old thread but my friend's 240 that he's been trying to get smog legal is pulling a code 55. Recently it totally turned off on the freeway when he was cut off and he braked hard. He's tried clearing it and according to him it just keeps coming back.
What do you fix when everything "is okay"?!?!
Thanks
What do you fix when everything "is okay"?!?!
Thanks