Engine break-in and oil

[biosehnsucht]

OK, so I KNOW we've covered this 1000x times but I can't find it seraching archive and recent, I swear the threads have just disappeared.

I remember 50W being recommended for normal use, but was it something-W50 or just straight 50? or was it 40 not 50? Also what should I use during break in, the shop that rebuilt my head recommended just using 10w30 dino oil.. they just said to keep the engine going at/around 2000rpm for 20 min while you're topping off / getting the air out of the coolant system, and after that oil change, drive normally (hard or whatever) for 500 miles and then oil change again..

[pulsar gtr]

HI,

Use 10W regular generic oil (non synethic), use it for about 5k Km without reving the car hard and keep it around 4-5psi of boost, don't rev it pass the 5k rpm if you want to break it properly.

after the 5K km, use semisynethic for another 2K km then you can switch to full synethic 10w-30

You first oil change should be around 500 km then you replace it also with generic oil 10w-30.Replace your oil every 3k Km this will keep your oil clean and fresh and you will never have any problems.

Good luck,

PULSAR GTR

[rico05]

I keep hearing folks say to use dino oil for the break in, but to actually beat the hell outta the motor to seal the rings properly. Wait for Dee to show up...That is what he reccomends.

[float_6969]

Well the oil you pick is partly going to depend on your climate. Right now there is snow on the ground, so I doubt putting 50W is going to be a good idea for me right now. I plan on using a 10-30/20-40 NON-SYNTHETIC. I also plan on beating the hell out of it for the first 20 miles, using a magnetic drain plug, a magnetic wrap on the oil filter, and changing the oil at 20 miles, then again at 200 miles. After that I'll run non-synthetic for one more oil change, and then switch to synthetic.

[Myetball]

Check this link for a professional writeup on hard break-in. float is right on the money.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[biosehnsucht]

I know, float has pimped that recently.

I'm not so much concerned about what to do for the break in but hte oil afterwards.

We decided to go with 10W40 since its a texas winter.. and it will be driven hard

[Myetball]

Once the break-in is complete you can switch to synthetic. I wouldn't go any thinner than 10W30 for winter. A good 10W or 15W - 40 synthetic should work well.

Then again, you can use Dee's experience and run Castrol part synthetic with Lucas oil stabalizer. He's had real nice results, especially considering the abuse he's put his motor through.

[float_6969]

To each is their own, but personally, I'm the anit-christ of oil addatives. I hate the damn things. There is plenty of technology in today's oils. I really don't think addatives are nessiccary, nor do they really help. But like I said, that's just my opinion...

[r34 gtr]

yeah, im not so sure addatives do anything at all really. im a die-hard castrol fan though. that stuff works miracles, i swear. run my ca out of oil 3 or 4 times and drove it for an hour without coolant and my cylinder bores were not in the least bit scored. one rod bearing had some good wear on it, but that was it and in my opinion not bad at all for what it had been through. im thinking the castrol does all the work and that lucas junk does nothing. just my opinion though.

- tim

[Onizuka]

Break-in as in brand new interals or break-in as in the motor has been sitting and just installed? If its a used motor, using break-in oil at all is debatable. Maybe just some cheap *** 10w-30 to get any crud out for a few miles. I run 15w-50 in the summer and 0w-40 winter, all moble1 synth.

[Myetball]

Was just thinking. How many people have suffered engine failure because their oil was no good? Point is, there are alot of opinions on what oil to run and people have their favorite brands and weights or additives/no additives, either backed up by science or experience. So, rather than asking what oil to run maybe we should focus on what NOT to run.