Engine bay/Firewall Rust

[PHeller]

Anyone have any pictures of what these rust spots can look like?

Reason being, I'm checking out a 89 Coupe, and I think the rust below the master cylinder is just surface rust, because I pushed on it and didn't crumble. However, I'd like to have a better idea where else I need to check in that area to make sure the frame is sound.

Additionally, can rust on the frame at this point be repaired without removing the engine/transmission? Could I get in there with a sander and some POR15 to hold up?

Oh, and hello all, it's my first post.

[Chris28]

Welcome. As far as rust/body work goes, it's best to post pics so everyone can see whats up. Rust on the brake master cylinder is very common, it's rust on the frame rails and other parts of the unibody that matter most.

Definitely check the frame rails. In the front, check right where they "curve up," as in right before the wheel well. That is the most common spot for the frame rail to start rusting. My 89 coupe has holes in the rails in those places, left and right. After that, check the rear rocker panel. Basically right before the rear wheel well and right after the door, rust is very common. Look under the car and right where the door line is there is a pinch weld that runs vertically underneath the body. Rust likes that place too. Next time you go to look at it bring a camera and take pics of those places. I'll post some pics in a sec to show you where.

[sommmatt]

Attack stuff with a screwdriver. Then you'll know if it can hold up or not.

[Chris28]

That is the rear rocker panel area i'm talking about. That's my coupe too lol...don't be dumb and buy it without seeing it.

Also make sure you check the door jambs. Here's what mine looked like. This is bad.





Basically read this thread and it will show you where rust likes to form. Good luck.

zer...age=1

[PHeller]

Chris, all the places you had pictures of I've checked and they are mint.

I didn't take a screw driver with me on the test drive, so no poking was done.

Rockers are free and clear. I actually think the one side might have had rust repaired at the rocker, it looks pretty good, but I see some paint differences.

It's got a spot coming through in the spare tire well, probably the only spot I really noticed. Enough that its visible behind the license plate.

The only thing that really has me worried is possible frame rust, because it's the most expensive and time consuming to fix. The other spots I could easily do, but replacing sections of frame in the engine bay on a daily driver isn't worth $1500 for me.

Oh, did I mention this will be a daily driver?

So ya...I need to get this dude (who I'm annoying) to take some pictures to avoid the one hour drive again, or go check it out a second time before making full payment.
Modified by PHeller at 6:21 AM 12/25/2008

[Chris28]

Hmm I'd say skip this one, 1500 sounds a little steep if it has some rust issues. I paid 1500 for my coupe, and you see how much rust that has. That was a bad buy on my part lol. The hatch in my sig, however, I bought for 300 bucks and drove it home. It needed some mechanical work, but I fixed it and now I daily it. Find a cheaper car that has mechanical damage, not body/structural damage. If you can replace parts then it's a much better decision. Parts are easy to install and cheap...body work on the other hand is extensive and costly.

[PHeller]

Well, like I said, I don't know to what extent it has "rust issues".

I mean, that little spot below the master cylinder could be pretty minor.

[MN240SXDriv3r]

Chris you paid 300 for a 240 that drove? Man I need to come live by you haha. Here in MN we have a couple of 240's that are bone stock trying to be sold for 4k. An SR20DET powered one is trying to be sold for 10k it's ridiculous up here.

As far as the OP I wouldn't do it. You could spend that $1500 on a car with no rust.

I bought an 87 toyota supra for $1500 with no rust at all and pretty much every receipt ever made for it. You can find a 240sx for $1500 in excellent condition if you look hard enough. Save up your money don't buy this one

[PHeller]

Well, like I said, I don't know to what extent it has "rust issues".

I mean, that little spot below the master cylinder could be pretty minor.

[hbpignosePA]

also check right above where the frame rail meets the sheetmetal on the shock tower... that area is known to rust (mines bad on both sides...

its hard to see without taking off the wheels but definately worth it

i also see you are somewhat local to me

[PHeller]

Frame rails turned out to be pretty good. Seem to be solid and previously covered with rubberized undercoating.

Little spot below the master cylinder is turning color, but not rusting.