So my bushings are shot in my control arm on the right side. It is an unfortunate consequence of having an oil leak for too damn long. My handling had progressivly become worse. I found out that you have to change out the entire control arm for about 200 a piece. I knew that I had to find another way.
Turns out that the Maxima, 95-99, has the same bushings as the Altima. So it turns out also that Energy Suspension makes poly bushings for the Maxima that also fit the Altima control arm. ALSO... the Max uses the same SWAY BAR bushings as the Alty. I am buying both for the entire front end for a grand total of $35 plus shipping. HELL YEAH!!! I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Energy Suspension Control Arm Bushings for 1st Gen!!!
Is the Maxima sway bar bigger than the Altima's? In the Impreza group we have a racket going. The RS guys upgrade their sway bars with the WRX Wagon sway bar. The WRX wagon guys upgrade their sway bar with the WRX Sedan guys. The WRX Sedan guys make $40 and buy a bigger sway bar and aluminum endlinks. Everyone is happy. bud
Well, after a painful weekend installing the bushings, they are finally in. This mod is definitely a pain in the ***. The biggest pain is getting the old bushings out. I was lucky to have an air grinder, a torch, and a sturdy vice to help me accomplish the install.
Complaining aside, the steering response and following body movement has become very sharp. The feeling of control has drastically increased. The fit is perfect for the control arm bushings as well as the sway bar bushings. I finished the install with the energy suspension end links. The swaybar and the control arms have all poly bushings now.
To complete the front end, I am going to replace my tie rod ends and get an alignment because my steering is all over the place (it was before the install).
After 240,000 miles the car will handle better than it ever has. I love my car.
Complaining aside, the steering response and following body movement has become very sharp. The feeling of control has drastically increased. The fit is perfect for the control arm bushings as well as the sway bar bushings. I finished the install with the energy suspension end links. The swaybar and the control arms have all poly bushings now.
To complete the front end, I am going to replace my tie rod ends and get an alignment because my steering is all over the place (it was before the install).
After 240,000 miles the car will handle better than it ever has. I love my car.
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00_Altima MD
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 6:58 am
- Car: 2004 Sentra SE-R Spec V
thanks! my next projects include replacing my worn out inner tie rod ends, rear swaybar end link replacement (right rear clinks and clanks over almost anything), oh and that Hemi that I have been meaning to put in ! I thought about a turbo project for when I graduate soon, but my car has almost 240,000 miles on it. If I bought another Altima, I would want one of those red 93 or 94 SE models with a 5sp/lsd with much lower mileage. That would be a be a much better starting point. I basically just fix what wears out with aftermarket stuff. It is usually cheaper, will last longer, and perform much better. But thats just because im a broke college kid.
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Importroller
- Posts: 1135
- Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 10:12 am
- Car: G35 and 07 Altima 3.5 6spd
- Location: san diego
- Contact:
Re: (Simmsled)
im about to do the same thing to mine too, but i have to get some more tools for the job. i need a vice to hold them, and a saw to get inside to cut the medal part out, my car is sitting for a few months, so it wont matter about the downtime for anything
When you cut them with the saw, be sure not to saw down into the control arm itself. I used the saw down to a point and then I got a metal punch and hammer to peal back the metal a bit and then I hammered the rest out fairly easily.
On the passenger side, I had an oil leak that softened up the bushing and it made it easy to come off. The driver side I had to use a propane torch to heat/soften up the rubber and then use an air grinder to grind the metal sleve off of the post.
SO... A word to the wise: Use a propane torch to get the control arm off of the post if it wont come off with normal pulling power. I got under there in the Squat power lifting position and pulled as hard as I could... nothing. I can squat over 400 pounds and that thing was not coming off. I then got my big brother REPOMAN to help. He could leg press a Volkswagen Beetle and he could not get it off.
SO GET A TORCH! It will smell and it will take a little time to get it hot enough to be able to get the control arm off, but it is the only way.
On the passenger side, I had an oil leak that softened up the bushing and it made it easy to come off. The driver side I had to use a propane torch to heat/soften up the rubber and then use an air grinder to grind the metal sleve off of the post.
SO... A word to the wise: Use a propane torch to get the control arm off of the post if it wont come off with normal pulling power. I got under there in the Squat power lifting position and pulled as hard as I could... nothing. I can squat over 400 pounds and that thing was not coming off. I then got my big brother REPOMAN to help. He could leg press a Volkswagen Beetle and he could not get it off.
SO GET A TORCH! It will smell and it will take a little time to get it hot enough to be able to get the control arm off, but it is the only way.
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