Energy Suspension Bushings embarkment

[allenms240]

Hello all,
It’s been a while since I’ve posted, but here I am. I am planning on doing all the suspensions bushings. The polyurethane Energy ones, the master kit. I’ve heard it’s extremely hard, but I’ve also heard it’s easy as long as you have the time and correct tools. My question is what are the correct tools? I know I have to press out all the old bushing, which is why I will be heading to harbor freight tools to buy a ½ ton press, do you think that press will be more than efficient? I’ve also heard people burning out the bushings with a torch, is that just the tension rod bushings you have to burn out? Any and all input is welcome. I haven’t really found anything on the forums useful. I just pretty much need a list of tools to make this go as fast and easy as possible.
So far I have:
½ ton press
Torch
Basic tools

Any tips and information will be helpful, thanks a lot. I’ve heard this is a frustrating and time consuming job, and I’m ready for it
Allen

[nifares240]

a faster way will be to get all the stock arms, knuckles, and the whole rear sub frame from a parts car cut, burn and press out the old bushings. after all the new poly bushings are installed, all you have to do it swap out the rear sub frame and front suspension. this will eliminate down time in your car. if you are going to buy upgraded suspension arms, you won't need all the bushings in the kit. I still have left over bushings when I did the whole suspension.

[ghx407]

Besides the obvious wrenches/ratchets/screwdrivers/pliers I used a six inch table vise, a pry bar, a propane torch, a torque wrench, a small sledgehammer, and a 36mm socket for the rear axle nuts.

Rent an AutoZone ball joint press to replace the old ball joints while you're down there. Use 1989 Sentra front ball joints for the S13's rear and have some snap ring pliers handy.

[allenms240]

Yeah I have spare toe arms and RUCAs because my friend has upgraded his, but I don't have anything else. So my car will be down while I'm doing it. But no worries.

GHX,
Exactly what part of the project did you use those tools in?

Thanks for the input

[ghx407]

Table vise to press bushings in/out (I had the front tension rods' inner sleeves removed by a shop, the vise wouldn't cut it)
Pry bar to help in removal of suspension arms and to align everything up during reassembly
Propane torch to remove rear spindle bushings (also requires a 18tpi hacksaw, small chisel, and hammer for the inner sleeves)
Torque wrench to reassemble per FSM specs
Small sledgehammer to drive bolts in/out

If you're not familiar with the suspension, do one corner at a time so you don't mix up parts and to use the opposite side as an assembly guide.

[tEknoS13]

I too recently installed Energy Suspension bushings, just on the traction rods though. And yes they were a pain in the a@@ UNTIL I figured out how to do it much faster and easier. If you have a bench vise you can do it. Put one end of the arm (toe rod, ruca, traction rod) against the vise and on the other side put the bushing, once you begin going in with it, you will notice the bushing is going in uneven. A piece of the lip is gonna be sticking out like crazy in an angle, but dont worry the bushing will not get damaged. Now grab a nice flathead screwdriver and push in on the lip and it should go in quite easily. Make sure to use the poly lube!

[KYZAAC]

i would like some pointers too, i have the energy bushing kit that i am putting in, i picked up an oxy/acetylene set (i was looking for a set anyways) and there is a 12 ton shop press going on sale at the end of aug for $109 so im waiting for that before i start. im just gonna drop the subframe and go to town i guess

[JayArr]

I bought this:

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-7 ... B00061SGZO

and I already had this:

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-7 ... B00061SGOU

They aren't for this purpose precisely but they give you a wide assortment of sizes of press tubes, receivers, and a really sturdy C clamp for where the 12 ton press won't work.

Add to those a bench vise, a 12 ton press and some torches and I was able to do the entire car with the universal set. I also did the ball joints and sandblasted and painted all of the control arms, sub frame, spindles and connecting arms with POR50. It's a hell of a job but worth it.

Just a note - read the instructions! For some of the bushings you need to leave the OEM sleeves in the control arms, in these cases I used a torch to heat the OEM rubber and when it got hot enough it popped out of the control arm like magic, then I just took a small wire wheel and cleaned up the inside.

JayArr

[KYZAAC]

Add to those a bench vise, a 12 ton press and some torches and I was able to do the entire car with the universal set. I also did the ball joints and sandblasted and painted all of the control arms, sub frame, spindles and connecting arms with POR50. It's a hell of a job but worth it.

what por stuff did you use? was it the chassis stuff? http://www.por15.com/POR15-CHASSISCOAT- ... tinfo/S9G/
is this stuff durable ? i planed on painting everything when i drop the subframe, but i don't know if the paint will last with everything hitting it under the car, rocks and whatnot.

[allenms240]

So for the bushings in the RUCAs, and toe rods, would i have to burn the rubber out, then sand it down? Instead of trying to press it all out?

[barefoot mat]

its up to you. but burning the rubber is the quickest, and also smells bad.

clean the area you set on fire, apply some bushing lube then press in.

[tEknoS13]

Burning out the rubber makes it much easier. When the rubber burns out, the inner bushing just slips right out and it releases tension to the outer sleeve. Now just chisel it out or press it out whatever you preffer. A ball joint press works just fine.

[allenms240]

Burning out the rubber makes it much easier. When the rubber burns out, the inner bushing just slips right out and it releases tension to the outer sleeve. Now just chisel it out or press it out whatever you preffer. A ball joint press works just fine.

Which suspension arms require the removal of the metal sleeve that went around the bushing?

[KYZAAC]

there is a piece of paper in each pack of bushings in the kit, it should say. my kits put away, i'll check later for ya. i know you leave the subframe bushings sleeves in.

i was talking to a mechanic from a 240 shop and he told me he would never use poly bushings anywhere on the car, he said they bind up. anyone know if thats true? too late anyways, im still using them, but i would still like to know.

[nifares240]

some parts of it will bind up. especially the ones that twist naturally under load. i only replaced the ones that are static.

[allenms240]

Well today I did the tension arms as well as front sway bar end links/bar. Noticeable difference in corner and better response side to side.

[barefoot mat]

the rear LCA's and the rear uprights to the toe and ruca's all have metal outer shells that need to be removed. i just did this yesterday. its a real PITA. you need to hacksaw the sleeve itself then use a hammer and chisel to CAREFULLY punch out the sleeve.

i found i impossible to press in the new bushing without this step.

[KYZAAC]

will a 12 ton shop press be enough to press out the bushings? i thought it would be effortless but after a bit of googling some say it works fine and others say the 12 wouldnt cut it. anyone have first hand experience?

[lbreevesii]

If you plan to get upgraded suspension arms I honestly wouldn't bother with the master set if I were you. Getting the rings out of the rear suspension points is a huge pita unless you just happen to find/make something the right size for pressing them out. With the exception of the lower A arm on the rear, the new bushings go in easy once you get the rhythm and technique down.

[barefoot mat]

will a 12 ton shop press be enough to press out the bushings? i thought it would be effortless but after a bit of googling some say it works fine and others say the 12 wouldnt cut it. anyone have first hand experience?

it is possible, you MUST have the right drifts and/or sockets that can safely press the bushing out. it's a pain. the torch is much faster, might not be as safe but, if your not a total halfwit, it is much more efficent.

[turbonxsx]

Damn don't feel bad i have attempting to get the metal sleeved f*** s*** out of the rear uprights for some time i have a press but not enough room to get the bastard under but the front was easy as f*** too replace keep keeping on....

[vancouverbc]

reinvent the wheel

[allenms240]

HAving a s*** of trouble pressing in new bushings in the toe rods and RUCAs, any input or help? I keep trying to press them, but it keeps slipping out of place.

[barefoot mat]

are you using a bench vice or press?

if im not mistaken its cause the bushing have two shoulders.

try to lube up the bushing, it does help, and when using a vice, right when you feel the bushing "slip" hold the arm where its at and poke the half of the bushing with flat screw driver. sound crazy but it helps.

[allenms240]

Today, did the Front control arms, rear sway bar, and rear subframe inserts, and the steering rack. Much better response in the back, smoother and more consistent with NO wheelhop. very satisfied with the back performance. Haven't really felt a different from the front control arms or the steering rack.
Mat, I am using a 1 ton press, does the inner lip of the toe rods and RUCA themselves need to come out or just those on the knuckle? The rear arms pack is the only one i have left then I'll have them all done, but I'm having lots of trouble. I appreciate your help.

[barefoot mat]

im not sure what you mean by "lip", but if your talking about the inner metal sleeve then yes it will need removed. i skipped the rucas and toe/traction rods since i've just purchased some aftermarket ones.

[allenms240]

Are the metal sleeves on the knuckle any easier to get out?

[barefoot mat]

in a word, no.

but i cut two slits in them instead of one and made for a little easier job.

[allenms240]

Oh well, all will be done except those then. Maybe if I get my hands on some spare knuckles then I will have more time.