Post by
S0crates »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/s0crates-u40808.html
Sun Aug 19, 2007 9:36 pm
It's been a long, hard weekend of wrenching on the car, and it's not working. Here's what happened, please, please help me if you can!
I picked up a 1995 240SX Base about 6 months ago. The check engine light was lit, so when I got home, I checked the ECU for error codes and got 10-5. Looking this up in the manual revealed the culprit to be the EGR and Canister Control Solenoid. I didn't bother with trying to fix it until this weekend. I disassembled the intake, fuel rail and intake-manifold to get to the culprit. After replacing the Solenoid, I then removed the EGR Tube, EGRC-BPT and EGR Valve, blocked off the Exhaust Manifold and Intake Manifold ports for the EGR Tube, and blocked off the vacuum hose going from the Solenoid to the EGRC-BPT. However, I kept the carbon canister, which is why I replaced the solenoid in the first place. I also replaced the air filter with a Cone-Type.
After reassembling everything, I got the check engine light. 3-2, 3-3, 3-4. The manual says these mean, EGR Function, Front Oxygen Sensor and Knock Sensor! So now I am much worse off. The next thing to note is that I did not try to trick the EGR Temp Sensor with the resistor like some have done, that explains the first error code. I figured that after I replaced the Solenoid, the ECU would assume EGR was working, and change the fuel/air ratio because it thinks some of the air is exhaust. So the car ran lean, which caused the engine to knock. This also explains the Oxygen sensor.
So, next I assumed if I simply clear the ECU and unplug the power adapter to the Solenoid, I would be back to only having error code 10-5. Well that didn't work. Because now I have error codes 3-3, 3-4 and 10-5!!!! (Front Oxygen Sensor, Knock Sensor and Solenoid valve)
I would rather not disassemble things again, but I need this working. What went wrong? If the Solenoid is unplugged, wouldn't the ECU assume no exhaust gases are making their way back to the intake, and so, the air/fuel ratio would be normal? What else could cause the Oxygen sensor and the Knock sensors to be lit?
I replaced the air filter with a cone-type, and I moved the air temperature sensor to the new cone's bracket. Could I have foiled it up and caused this?
Thank you guys!