electronic rust
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jerry cummings
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 2:05 am
- Car: altima
Re: electronic rust (jerry cummings)
Yes!!! I'm installing CountercArt electronic rust protection at the end of the month. Only 199$ CA and then I can forget rust proofing forever, and considering the harsh winter we get in quebec, with all that salt on the roads, it's a real bargainjerry cummings wrote:yes or no to electronic rust prevention
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LinkNuc
- Posts: 1075
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:15 pm
- Car: 2008 Altima Coupe 3.5 SE Super Black 6MT, Loaded minus Moon Roof Deflector
Re: electronic rust (mcheddadi)
Cool, thats like 205 US, lol and it looks like those guys are real close to me just South of I-80 in PA.
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LongBeachCoupe
- Posts: 9482
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:43 pm
- Car: 08 Altima Coupe (RIP Hurricane Sandy)
2005 Lexus RX
Re: electronic rust (mcheddadi)
Im in NY... we get snow... this thing is worth it? what if i dont get it.. what will happen in.. lets say 6 yrs...
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LinkNuc
- Posts: 1075
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:15 pm
- Car: 2008 Altima Coupe 3.5 SE Super Black 6MT, Loaded minus Moon Roof Deflector
Re: electronic rust (LongBeachCoupe)
In all honesty, likely nothing, rust hasn't been a problem since ol Rusty Jones Protection went under back in the 80's. I have always lived in the snow belt of either PA or OH, my friend is from Oswego, NY and gets slammed worse than you can imagine, even with combination of snow, slush, ice, salt and cinders I personally have never heard of or seen a corrosion issue in cars 1990+. Not to say that it couldn't happen. Just run here through a touchless w/ undercarriage once in while in the winter and you'll likely be fine. Again this is just my experience.
Re: electronic rust (LongBeachCoupe)
In my old 2004 maxima after 4 years my brake started to look like this :LongBeachCoupe wrote:Im in NY... we get snow... this thing is worth it? what if i dont get it.. what will happen in.. lets say 6 yrs...
so if after 6 years you don't want it to look like this:
(that's a slight exaggeration, its more like 10 years with some winter where the car hasn't been used at all and stayed outside lol)
then act before your first winter
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SHIFT_COUPE
- Posts: 3887
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- Location: Bethel, CT
- Contact:
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LongBeachCoupe
- Posts: 9482
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:43 pm
- Car: 08 Altima Coupe (RIP Hurricane Sandy)
2005 Lexus RX
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Cali 2 Balti G
- Posts: 866
- Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 6:36 am
- Car: Desert Platinum G35 Coupe
Dodge Ram Quad Cab
Toyota Sequoia
Re: electronic rust (jerry cummings)
How would you know if it is working?jerry cummings wrote:yes or no to electronic rust prevention
Your installing this on a brand new car which should go at least - 10 years without rusting depending on road conditions in your area and how you keep your car. I sold my 1995 Lexus LS400 for the G and it didn't have any rust at all - granted it wasn't driven in the snow much.
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LongBeachCoupe
- Posts: 9482
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:43 pm
- Car: 08 Altima Coupe (RIP Hurricane Sandy)
2005 Lexus RX
Re: electronic rust (Cali 2 Balti G)
in 8 yrs when its not or is rusted... and by that time this company is long gone lol...Im gonna take a pass on this thing....
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LinkNuc
- Posts: 1075
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:15 pm
- Car: 2008 Altima Coupe 3.5 SE Super Black 6MT, Loaded minus Moon Roof Deflector
Re: electronic rust (LongBeachCoupe)
I believe that to be a wise decision, if it were that great I would have heard of it before.
Interesting read.
<<One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.
But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chassis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car will not rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal does not rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.<<
<<One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.
But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chassis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car will not rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal does not rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.<<