The LS8's electronic climate control failed a couple summers ago. The coolant control valve on this car is electronic. It has two solenoid operated valves that direct coolant to each heater core independently (allowing for dual-zone control). It operates off a T-section from the main coolant pathway, which means it is not critical to overall coolant flow. So when it first failed, the passenger side crapped out and started blowing only max heat. I opened up the control valve assembly and shoved a spring in the solenoid to force it closed. No coolant to that side.
Since I drive the car from the driver seat (...) I don't care about passenger side heat. So when winter rolled around I just left it.
Next summer, around August, both sides started blowing only max heat again. Since I like the heat I just sucked it up. I let it go like that through winter, since winter is cold and I don't like the cold. Leaving the heat on too long made the cabin really hot, but I'd just warm the cabin up and shut off the heater. Butt warmers on maximum. That kinda thing.
Anyway, this summer I got a wild hair and decided I'd see if I could figure out what happened with the jimmied (forced closed) side of the control valve. I still can't figure out what happened. The spring was in place but the valve was opening against it. I can only assume the solenoid was stronger than the spring...but it was no weak spring.
Anyway, the control valve is a $130+ part for aftermarket (175 through Fjord). I'm not inclined to spend that money on something I don't really care about. So I decided I'd work around the problem again.
This time I just installed an override valve in front of the control valve inlet. Originaly I intended to simply buy a mechanical coolant control valve from an older (40s-50s) car with cable-operated heater controls. Of course no one had them in stock, and most employees at parts stores I went to looked baffled at the idea. Not all of them were young, either. But man...if you can't give them a model and year to type into the computer, they can't find jack.
Anyway, I finally found one from some mid-century Chrysler vehicles, but it was the wrong diameter for the hose in question. So I said "what the Hell" and went to Home Depot and got a 1'' brass ball valve. I took the handle off, cut the inlet hose, and clamped the bastard in there.
The brass fitting is on a down-line from the radiator outlet. It goes to the lower fitting on the control valve (the two-cylinder assembly on the right). It's easy to reach for quick adjustment. No leaks since the fix was put in place.
Now I can just reach in with a pair of pliers and switch the coolant flow partially back on when winter rolls around. If I haven't decided to replace the original control valve itself before then.
Screw electronics. I like stuff I can wrench on when it goes bad.
