electrical/wiring problem

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s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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Okay, heres my story. I bought a 93 240 back about 3 months ago. I got it not running and the owner said he didn't know what was wrong. Come to find out it had a blown headgasket and a big chunk missing out of the head. So I get a junkyard head, have it tested then we put it on. Put all new gaskets everywhere and everything. Got it back on and it still doesn't run. So we check it out some more and it looks to be like the lower timing chain was off. So we take it apart to redo the timing. Get it back together again and now is where I have the problem. I'm not getting any power to anything in the car. The headlights will come on, but they wont pop up. No turnsignals, no dash lights, no iterior lights, no brake lights. Went through and found that there is only the radio and rev. light fuses getting power to them. I get power to the fuel pump fuse under the hood. When I try to start the car, it will sound like it is about to start but then something stops it. I'm getting fuel, air, compression, and spark. Check the ECU and there seems to be a few wires that have been cut and spliced back together. There was actually a yellow/green one that was completely cut and disconnected coming from it. I would really like to get this worked out. Right now I'm working to save up for an SR swap but I've put a lot of time and money into this KA to just give up now. Any ideas of what to check or test would be great!!!

Thanks for reading,Cole


s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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well nevermind my problem....i'm stupid and i overlooked something so small :( and to think, its been sitting in my garage like this for about 3 weeks now :bash Here is what the problem was

jonnnny23
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2004 3:40 pm

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:P so when is gonna be runningJon

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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ok, new update......Got the relay/fuse thing today, put it in, got all my power and everything back but it still wont start. :( now it seems that there is no spark coming out of the coil. I know the coil worked b4. we even tried using another coil we had used b4 but that still didn't work. The only thing I can think of is when we pulled out the alarm **** yesterday. That must have something to do w/ it not getting any spark...any suggestions????

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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check the rest of your fuses.

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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I went through the fuse box w/ a test light and checked both sides of every fuse. Any other suggestions? Does it sound like it could be something to do w/ the alarm. There is a wire that was cut and had a connector spliced into it that plugged into the brain of the alarm system. A few tings wouldn't work w/ it unplugged so we just jumped the connectors w/ a piece of wire.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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It could be if its an aftermarket alarm system. Most of those systems they cut 1 or 2 wires and route them through their module to kill the stater circuit and/or the ignition circuit. but you would be able to match the wires by color and splice them back to factory configuration. If your talking about the factory alarm it would only cut the starter circuit there for the car wouldnt even crank over. But it would have nothing to do with the ignition circuit.

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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ok, so today my buddy comes to my work to get the key for the 240. He says he's been at my house working on it. I guess the coil plug wire was messed up so thats what was causing no spark. So he fixed that. Got it firing, but still wouldn't start. Mess w/ it for a while and it still doesn't start. Getting spark on all plugs, but I think there was a problem w/ fuel and air :( Although it seemed to be fine b4. This part is where I feel like a complete dumbass....After a few, I notice that there are small chunks of shop towels that seem to be coming out of the exhaust. :eek: So I'm like "wtf, how could shop towels be coming out of the exhaust?" So we pull the exhaust manifold off and notice that there is a small piece of shop towel coming out of the head into the manifold. So we pull that out and decide to pull out the plugs and look down into the cylinders to see what we find. #1 cylinder looks fine, #2 seems to have something in there. Guess what, some more shop towel :( We work w/ it and get all the **** out. Check the #3 and #4 cylinders and they look to be free of shop towel. So now it seems that #2 and#3 cylinders aren't getting any fuel and the engine doesn't seem to be getting any air. I honestly have no focking clue how the shop towels were left in there. I know I stuffed some down in the cylinders when we had the head off to keep stuff out, and I aslo had some down in the lower intake manifold runners, but I dont see how we could have left any in there. But I guess somehow it happened and it looks like this motor isn't gonna be running anytime soon. Anything that the towels could have caused?? also, how could they have got have gotten through valves and out the exhaust...any comments or ideas are welcome:bash :slap

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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EWWWW you could of bent the valves in that cyl if the rag was stuck in it while cranking. it may not be getting any air cause there may be a rag in the intake?? your best bet now is to do a leak down and see if it did any real damage. also do a compression test to see if the engine is able to draw air in.

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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wouldn't covering the plug hole while cranking show if the engine is drawing in air? what exactly is a leak down?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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A leak down is a test with a piece of equipment that has 2 guages on it one for the amount of air you are putting in the cyl and one gauge that measures % of that air that is being lost. 100psi is the recommended amount. you bring the cyl your testing up on it TDC and apply the air and note the %of loss anything over 10% is not good. If you have a bent valve I suspec you will see higher then 50% leak down. Its kinda tricky sometimes getting the cyl to stay at top dead center as the pressure wants to push it back down. If you have a manual its not so bad as you can put it in gear and pull the ebrake when doing the test. The compression test moniters how much compression the engine can build if it cant get air from the intake it wont build much pressure. which would indicate you got a rag somewhere caught up in your intake restricting the air flow. It would have to be somewhere like the throttle body. compression tests should be done with a warm engine so if you do it your readings may be slightly low since everything is still cold but should still be able to achive at least 140.

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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looks like its time to head to autozone and get a compression tester...does autozone have the leak down testers also? so if my leak down test shows 10% or higher chances are, that i have a bent valve? and if i dont see around 140 on the compression test then chances are that there is more rags caught in the intake? or could that also be caused by a bent valve? Could I use compressed air to blow into the throttle body while cranking the car over to maybe try and free up anymore stuck rags? Won't the timing have an affect on a compression test? and since i can't get the motor running, how am I supposed to get it timed? It seemed like it wanted to start the further clockwise the distributor was turned. Thanks for all your help so far...Your advice has proved very helpful so far.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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you will need to have an air compressor available to use the leak down tester. the compression test wont be nessesary if the leak down fails. yes a compression test will tell you if the cyl is leaking if it wont build up pressure either ,but being you had rags in it it may not be able to pull in air to build compression thats why I mentioned the leak down tester. If your mechanical timing was off yes it could have an effect on the tests beacuse the valves may be open when the piston is on TDC. if your car was trying to start when you moved the dist the first thing you may want to do before you go buy all those tools is try to determine if the cam and crank are in time and that the distributor is correctly clocked.

s13envy
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:09 pm

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will do...i will come back w/ result...thank you much


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