Hi Everyone,

I haven't been on this forum for a long time now but thought I'd post this new issue that happened last night/this morning.

To give a brief history - my car had been dying immediately after I start the engine on- and off- for the past 3 or 4 years now. The dealerships (2 different ones), plus an independent mechanic could not diagnose the problem. We had tried fuel injector flush, which the dealership always cites as the problem cuz they make $150 each time, yet, the car will die again the next week or even the day after I picked it up! I don't have a problem restarting it though, just have to push some gas in immediately to keep it running. It doesn't die while I'm driving and it seems to happen more in hotter than colder weather.

Recently, I had to change my car battery because that was also dying (4 years old from AAA). AAA told me they no longer carry any batteries for the EX37, at least for my 2008 year model so I had to get an Interstate battery from Costco and I installed it myself. Had no problems for about a month.

However, this morning when I started the car to go to work, I noticed the entire electrical system must have restarted/rebooted? My windows no longer roll up with one click, plus my info gauges reset to another display, as well as my mileage reading reset to zero. Radio setting seemed the same though.

I did a quick research on the internet and it seems to suggest alternator problem. Anyone had any similar issues with your car? Or any other ideas?

I will bring my car to AutoZone for a free test, but just thought you guys/gals may have some suggestions for me. Also, what would a new alternator with installation cost approximately? I'm in SoCal btw.

Thanks much!

Are the battery terminals clean and tight? if not might not have a good connection to the battery.

As far as the auto-up window function not working you will need to do the reset procedure, try this:

Pull the power window switch and hold it to close the window, and then hold the switch more than 3 seconds after the window is closed completely. Release the power window switch. Operate the window by the automatic function to confirm the initialization is complete.

If that is not the correct procedure for your specific vehicle, check your owner's manual, the procedure should be in there.

Thanks for the reset procedure, I'll do that once I'm able to fix the problem.

Yes, the battery terminals are tight and clean. I took the car earlier this morning to AutoZone and the guy said the alternator only had 12V so I should replace it. A few hours later, I parked my car after driving it for awhile already throughout the day, and went into a store for about 15 minutes. When I came out, the entire electrical system and battery was dead. None of the lights would even turn on! Luckily I had one of those Gooloo car battery boosters and I was able to start the battery again. I went to O'Reilly's later but when they checked the battery, starter, and alternator, the guys said everything was working fine. I am now super confused and don't know what to do.

Since I didn't get the second test until almost 3 pm, it was too late to go to a mechanic. They close early on Saturdays so I won't be able to do anything until Monday.

Problem is now that I have two conflicting diagnostics on the alternator, I'm not sure if I should get that replaced since it'll be around $400 minimum.

Sure would hate to junk the car since it's only got a little over 75K miles on it.

Thanks for reading, and if anyone has any more suggestions or ideas before Monday, I would very much appreciate it.

something to try , if you want to - pull out one at a time EVERY fuse and re-insert twice , if any big 150Amp-100Amp ones are difficult to remove -don't mess with them. Remove all pairs of relays that are similar -SWAP them. R & R the rest of relays and double insert them like you did with ALL fuses. See if any difference in the problems.
Costs nothing , bit of work. Basically a poor connection or bad relay may surface ??
Of course labeling the swapped relays - from / to is HUGE.

you can check the alternator yourself if you can borrow a multimeter from a friend or relative or buy a cheap basic one for around $10-$15 from walmart.

With the engine running, you should be getting a reading around 12.8-13.5 volts at the battery if the alternator is good.

my money is on the terminals or something associated with the terminals being loose/bad.

Start with what has been touched/changed. I bet you its the the terminals. I noticed on my ex35, the terminal would appear tight and would wiggle itself loose after a while.