Ok, so I'm about at my wits end. I'm by no means a stranger to wiring and electrical, but this darn car has got me stumped. Ok, so here is the deal...
I've had the car for about a year. When I first got the wiring, I didn't do it the way I should have and just did it "good enough". It worked OK, but not everything was hooked up. It was hard to start cold and the butterfly's didn't work correctly. Due to a wastegate line blowing off I over boosted and fried the rings. So I pulled the motor and rebuilt it. I've finally gotten to the point where I put the motor back in the car and So I decided to redo the wiring correctly. On to the problem...
I think everything is wired as it should be. All I really did was lengthen wires that should have been lengthend the first time that I didn't do. I also wired up the solenoids for the butterflys, boost control, and that fuel pressure one. Due to some problems with intercooler piping, I don't have the turbo hooked up at all. I just used the intake pipe from my KA/E and have the car hooked up like it's NA. The car is still hard to start cold. I'm guessing that it's that stupid valve under the TB. After it start's it seems to run great and everything is fine EXCEPT the following; The BRAKE light on the dash comes on AFTER I start the car. If the ignition switch is in the Run position, with the E-brake down, the light is off. As soon as I start the car, the light comes on. Secondly, the Charge light is very faintly lit. I've checked everything that has to do with the alternator and it checks out fine. I'm getting plenty of voltage out of the Alternator and I've run the car long enough that if it wasn't charging, I would have discharged the battery.
I'm at a complete loss and I'm at my wit's end. NO codes on the ECU. All my grounds look good. I'm ready to ditch this stock crap and get an SDS. Anybody want to buy an ECU, wiring harnes, Z32 and stock MAFS, stock injectors, Apex Power FC, coil packs, 2 Ignitors, 3 solenoids, and all the idle crap? First $1200 takes it all....
Electrical problems...
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float_6969
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float_6969
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i would like to give you some insight but ..your problem is strange
When my alternator wasnt properly working ( was only charging at high RPM) my dash light was lit when the car was shut.. i was thinking about electrical problem but i got it rebuilted and after that my dashlight was no lit .. and the problem disapeared
When my alternator wasnt properly working ( was only charging at high RPM) my dash light was lit when the car was shut.. i was thinking about electrical problem but i got it rebuilted and after that my dashlight was no lit .. and the problem disapeared
if your E brake light is coming on with the car running, it is likely that:1) your brake fluid resevoir is low.2) your e brake is sticking or your rear pads are very low.3) 1 and 2.
check your fluid level... if its low don't add more quite yet. jack up the car with the e brake off, spin the rear wheels (with it in neutral) and it should spin easily... if not than your brake is sticking. If they spin easy, pull the wheels off and check out your pads. If they are low, then change them.THEN add fluid if it is still low.tell me if that doesn't make the light go out (if it doesn't than it is electrical problem).its a known thing on the s13's for the e brake light to come on.. its in just about every faq out there.
Modified by cadet at 1:22 PM 4/10/2005
check your fluid level... if its low don't add more quite yet. jack up the car with the e brake off, spin the rear wheels (with it in neutral) and it should spin easily... if not than your brake is sticking. If they spin easy, pull the wheels off and check out your pads. If they are low, then change them.THEN add fluid if it is still low.tell me if that doesn't make the light go out (if it doesn't than it is electrical problem).its a known thing on the s13's for the e brake light to come on.. its in just about every faq out there.
Modified by cadet at 1:22 PM 4/10/2005
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pulsar gtr
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Hi Ryan,
Your problem sounds as if you have a loose ground or unconnected ground man. I have to agree with Fred about check out the alternator.
Regarding the cold start, do you have a hose t-connected from the air regulator below the TB all the way to right after the MAF, if you don't have this hose connected, the car will start and idle like **** when it is Cold.
Have you hooked any extra electronics units such as a boost controller, SAFCII , multchecker...etc, you might want to disconnect them all and make sure the car starts and runs normal then you can start adding these devices.
Good luck bud,
PULSAR GTRRafi
Your problem sounds as if you have a loose ground or unconnected ground man. I have to agree with Fred about check out the alternator.
Regarding the cold start, do you have a hose t-connected from the air regulator below the TB all the way to right after the MAF, if you don't have this hose connected, the car will start and idle like **** when it is Cold.
Have you hooked any extra electronics units such as a boost controller, SAFCII , multchecker...etc, you might want to disconnect them all and make sure the car starts and runs normal then you can start adding these devices.
Good luck bud,
PULSAR GTRRafi
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iliketocrash
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biosehnsucht
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after dropping my fuel pressure to the correct amount it was almost impossible to cold start unless I gave it a good amount of throttle, and even then I had to keep it alive for the first minute or so... but once I installed the vacuum delay valve that was no longer a problem.
funny that running hideously rich it was fine >_>
as for the weird lights there should be some kind of bulb check relay **** that controls some of the bulbs ... look for it in the FSM diagrams, its a really oddball relay setup. maybe its wacked.
funny that running hideously rich it was fine >_>
as for the weird lights there should be some kind of bulb check relay **** that controls some of the bulbs ... look for it in the FSM diagrams, its a really oddball relay setup. maybe its wacked.
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float_6969
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Thanks for all the input guys. I KINDA have it figured out. I at least know why the lights came on. There was a fuse blown in the Relay/fusible link/fuse box over by the battery. But now I have a whole new set of problems....
The brake light and charge light stay off when I start the car and have the fuse in. But the car runs like crap under 4K. If I remove the fuse, it runs fine, but the lights are on. I've started tracing all my connections and such and I've gotten to the AAC valve. I think it's screwed up. I've got one that I'm going to rig into working, but I don't have any power going to the positive side of it right now either. I didn't get any farther than that last night.
The brake light and charge light stay off when I start the car and have the fuse in. But the car runs like crap under 4K. If I remove the fuse, it runs fine, but the lights are on. I've started tracing all my connections and such and I've gotten to the AAC valve. I think it's screwed up. I've got one that I'm going to rig into working, but I don't have any power going to the positive side of it right now either. I didn't get any farther than that last night.