Electrical Issues

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
zxequalslife
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:07 pm
Car: 1990 300zx TT
Location: Montreal, Quebec

Post

Hey guys,

Recently I've been having some pretty wierd electrical problems. It happens most of the time, but not all the time. When I cold start the car it sounds like the battery is dead and that the car has a lot of trouble turning over. When I turn the key, nothing happens for a half a second. Finally after it does start, the HICAS light comes on, the steering wheel is very hard to move (power steering is pretty much disabled), the radio cuts out and the car idles very rough and feels like dying. That being said, as soon as a blip the gas and bring the revs over lets say 2500 rpm, everything magically works again and there are no more problems.

Has anyone ever encountered a problem like this? I'm not 100% clueless lol so I'm going to take a stab in the low light and say it's the alternator. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,


User avatar
Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Post

Kinda what it's sounding like to me. What you need to do is take a voltmeter and check the battery terminals when the car is off, and the check again with the car running. With the car off, it should be around 12 volts. When the engine is running and the alternator is charging, the output should be roughly 14.3. Good luck!

zxequalslife
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:07 pm
Car: 1990 300zx TT
Location: Montreal, Quebec

Post

Now that I think of it a bit more, it might be something else or not... I'm confused lol. When I try and start the car, it sounds like the battery is dead. Would the voltage regulator have anything to do with this? Also, when the car starts up the sterring wheel is very hard to turn the wheel. I'm guessing the alternator is giving a much greater resistance since it's on the same belt?

I remember the alternator being very dirty the last time I got under there to change the oil. It's possible that it needs a good cleaning and might last a little while longer.....

nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

Post

Have you checked all the connections make sure you have a clean connection and clean ground?

Im going with ace on using a volt meter to make sure your getting the correct voltage, if possible try right when you first start it and when you blip the acc pedal. The hicas light could be coming on because there is not enough pressure in the lines also why you have no steering. It could be possible that with the alt being dirty could just have a bad connection internally.

Another idea, and Im just throwing this out there, have you checked the starter? Possible that may be going and its getting hung up on the flywheel and creating a drag to keep the engine at a low rpm.

Let us know

LIBRILZ
Posts: 1491
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:17 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx
2007 M45 Sport

Post

Could be the altenator belt slipping. Oil on the belt has let mine slip before.

zxequalslife
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:07 pm
Car: 1990 300zx TT
Location: Montreal, Quebec

Post

Well I tried starting it after work. I put the key in turned to ACC and everything worked fine, turned the key to crank...nothing. All the while everything was still on. I did this about 3 or 4 times until it cranked for a half a second and fired right up. Still had to blip the gas though. Getting really confused now :gotme

zxequalslife
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:07 pm
Car: 1990 300zx TT
Location: Montreal, Quebec

Post

OK so I was at a red light last night on a busy street. Everything was fine and out of nowhere, poof...everything dies. I tried turning the car back on and the battery meter said like 8V when I was cranking and 10 when I wasn't.

I unhooked the battery and everything came back to 12V and the car started right up again...now I'm at a loss.

User avatar
Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Post

Sticking relay? Idk, that's a weird one.

User avatar
PAintballa45
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:37 pm
Car: 1991 300zx n/a (TT in progress : D) slicktop
Location: Boston MA

Post

zxequalslife wrote:Now that I think of it a bit more, it might be something else or not... I'm confused lol. When I try and start the car, it sounds like the battery is dead. Would the voltage regulator have anything to do with this? Also, when the car starts up the sterring wheel is very hard to turn the wheel. I'm guessing the alternator is giving a much greater resistance since it's on the same belt?

I remember the alternator being very dirty the last time I got under there to change the oil. It's possible that it needs a good cleaning and might last a little while longer.....
The alt belt does not run the p/s, only the alt and water pump, p/s is on its own belt. However, there is an speed solenoid on the steering rack that decreases pressure as you reach higher speeds (less responsive at 100mph than at 40). If the alt is not putting out the correct voltage it may cause the solenoid to not operate correctly. I would have you alternator tested/replaced.

User avatar
Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Post

Actually, the alternator and P/S pump are on separate belts. The only things that share a belt are the water pump and fan.


Return to “300ZX (Z32) Technical”