Electrical Gurus (ka24de preferred)

[nlzmo400r]

so i think i fixed my voltage draw problem, in the process i blew a major fuse. I do not have power to anything electrical in my car anymore except my hi-beams. I started checking fuses, but the only one that I saw blown as one labeled *ACC* (under the hood driver side fuse box). I figured that meant accesories anyway, so i replaced it but still, nothing has power. Anythoughts on anything else to check...fuses or anything diagnostic wise i should try? I appreciate any help guys.

[NM50]

Check the fusible links from the battery.

[vancouverbc]

yep, the fusible links in the fuse box by battery is where you should look. inspect closely because they can blow and look ok.

[nlzmo400r]

fusible links...? not too sure what that refers to.

I've checked all fuses under hood and in dash, only one that is blown is my "ACC" fuse under driverside hood. Replaced it and still fixed nothing.

I drove the car home yesterday for the first time, battery voltage was low at 11.9-12.0 the whole way but it stayed constant. Still no acc's other than: Safc, Hi-Beams, and Reverse lights.

[vancouverbc]

sounds like you might have blown your lights out somehow. maybe the regulator in your alternator is gone.

ACC(accessory relay#2) is a relay. Not sure how you determined it was bad. It seems to only supply power to the blower motor for heating interior of car.

http://img169.imageshack.us/my...0.jpg
Modified by vancouverbc at 8:15 PM 1/29/2008

[nlzmo400r]

sounds like you might have blown your lights out somehow. maybe the regulator in your alternator is gone.

ACC(accessory relay#2) is a relay. Not sure how you determined it was bad. It seems to only supply power to the blower motor for heating interior of car.

http://img169.imageshack.us/my...0.jpg

Modified by vancouverbc at 8:15 PM 1/29/2008

you think i blew everybulb in my dash...and my radio...and my driving lights?

Not following you there, please elaborate.

I determined it was bad when i popped the relay out and the female end that it plugs into was burnt to crisp and only one of the female prongs is receiving power now instead of two power and two ground.

the ACC #1 under the dashboard is still fine though.

I have the fsm and was looking through it, the acc relays also power my digital cluster/dash crap so that's got to be it, but how to fix is the problem.

The car runs and drives fine and like i said, working components are:safc, wideband(wired into fuse kickpanel), hi-beams, reverse lights,and the low battery voltage light in the dashboard is on but very dim.

I have confirmed that the battery voltage is low but it stays at a constant 11.9-12.0 while driving and 12.5-4 when acc is on. Still any ideas?

[vancouverbc]

With the key out of ignition, you should only have one ground and one 12v+ at acc relay.

If you only get one 12v+ with key at accessory, the following applies:

pretty sure that accessory relay2 is solely for the blower. with the key at accessory position, you should have 3 -12v+ and one ground. one of the power lines has been cut or come unsoldered. maybe under the relay box.the cut powerline is probably affecting you dash lights and maybe the headlight relay which is in the same box as the acc relay.


Modified by vancouverbc at 1:48 AM 2/5/2008

[nlzmo400r]

im sorry i didn't specify, i did have the key on acc when i tested to see which one was getting power, if 1 and two are ground(which i suspected) then they're still fine, but it's either 3 or 5 that is not getting power b/c like i said, only one has power with key in. Would you happen to know how to take out the female clip end so i can check the wires under or replace the entire ACC relay block?

thanks van-Chris

[vancouverbc]

1. constant ground2. 12v+ when key in access position3. constant 12v+4.12v+ when key in access position

The constant 12v+ to 3 has to be the problem. This is the white wire. I'm not sure about how the wire is routed but it is coming from battery via the relay box next to battery. . It may come straight from the battery. Sorry, I dont know about the clip

[nlzmo400r]

thats cool van, again i really appreciate your help.

Im going to do 2 things and hope it fixes it:Get a Nissan Quest Alternator ('93)Get under that fuse box and re-route the wires to the relay to make sure none of them got burnt and popped.

if you get any more info or anything please let me know becuase ive searched forums all over...still nothing. thanks for all the help, very knowledgeable.

-Chris

[vancouverbc]

Thanks:) The power is completed interrupted so it will probably be obvious what the problem is when you see it.

[nlzmo400r]

Ok so I thought i had everything worked out, went to get another 75amp alternator relay hopefully to fix the problem, but it keeps blowing.

Everything was in the off position as i put the relay in, no problem.

I went to the back of the car, put the negative battery terminal on, then proceeded to put the positive wire on and *zap*. Alternator relay blew again...These things are $30 a piece and i just ordered 2 more...

Any ideas guys, van? to why this keeps blowing...?

thanks a lot in advanced guys.-Chris

[vancouverbc]

Are you saying that your 75 amp alternator fuse has been blown all along? If so, that would be why there is no power at acc relay. bad alternators can fry that fuse. I'm not sure why your acc relay got fried. Maybe do a search for blown alternator fuse. have you tried disconnecting the alternator to see if fuse blows? SOmone mentioned that there are fuses that are resetable so if it blows you just reset it. Supposed to be sold at auto supply stores. NOticed you fixed a voltage draw. what was that about?

[nlzmo400r]

the relay was not blown the entire time...definitely would have noticed lolx. I will try unplugging the alternator and then putting the new one in, but i am also going to check to make sure my main power wire isnt grounding on anything.

Ive definitley searched for bad alternator relay fuses ect...found nothing like my problem, even though im sure it has happend to a lot of people. Anyway, i have a few ideas to check, thanks to you and couple of friends. so when the relays come in or when i go to a junk yard, ill reply back and let you know how it goes. thanks for the constant replies.

Btw: i think the "draw" was coming from a weak connection from my old power wire to new(with the battery relocation).

[vancouverbc]

get some kind of circuit breaker so you are not blowing $30 alternator fuses. connect it in where the alternator fuse now is. i did notice circuit breaker mentioned by people relocating battery. not sure the idea behind that.

if your alternator fuse was not blown when you measured zero power at acc relay, you have a completely severed power wire.

your idea of the power line grounding somewhere makes sense since the acc relay was fried. normally, just the alternator fuse would blow. otoh, you have relocated battery so I dont know how things are wired.
Modified by vancouverbc at 1:43 AM 2/5/2008

[nlzmo400r]

so basically my wiring goes like this. Complete old power wire with everything attached to it just piggybacked onto new battery wire leading to trunk. I know ghetto, but that's how it is right now.

Like i said im going to change the alternator with the quest b4 i try another relay, but if you don't mind...what kind of circuit breaker and or what would it consist of...not too sure how to make one of those...

[vancouverbc]

a circuit breaker is just a fuse that resets after it has blown. a fuse is just a gap in a wire caused by the metal connection in fuse melting. so a cct breaker just goes inline on a wire. auto cct breaker can be bought at auto supply stores .