Electric Fans Stealing Power?

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rudee023
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I have been running the Flex a lite dual electric fans with power coming from the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay. Shady I know. Could this affect the operation of the fuel pump? On start up engine idles and runs beautiful, after going on the freeway and some driving I have a huge power loss in 1st through about 3rd. Turbo spools fine but it just feels like there is no power and acceleration is HELLA slow. I will rewire the fans ASAP just to be sure but does anyone have any other ideas? FYI, BPU redtop.


Nismo_Freak
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Man, there is hella current flowing to those fans. You need to run them via a proprietary 12v dedicated power. Perhaps a fused, or relayed direct line. You could run them off a switch from there, or run the power to the relay's coil from the ignition "hot" wire.

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RobDET
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Both the fuel pump AND the fans require a FULL 12V to function properly. They are DEFINATELY fighting eachother.

caliracer240
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first off they are hooked up in parrarell circuit which means the voltage stays the same through out the circuit... if anything it is drawing too many amps through the little wire that is ran to the realy.... BUT if that was happening, then fuses would be popping and wires would melting down. I have mine hookd up to the constant 12v non-fused side of the fuel pump fuse and havent had any problems with power loss.....But then give it a try if it makes you happy.

rudee023
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Jumpin' jimmeny Christmas that's one spicy meatball! I rewired them and the car is running beautiful now, pulls like a mo'fo. I wired the fans to the fuse when I first got them just to see if they worked and I left them. They were definately draing power from the pump. Anyone who has this setup and is having power problems check this!

caliracer240
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im glad that is your problem and you fixed it, but im trying to figure out if it was texing the circuit so badly, why it was not popping a fuse?? I have mine wired up and i have no problems at all... ah welll......................

Nismo_Freak
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caliracer240 wrote:im glad that is your problem and you fixed it, but im trying to figure out if it was texing the circuit so badly, why it was not popping a fuse?? I have mine wired up and i have no problems at all... ah welll......................


The common dual 12" FAL fan setup pulls 19.5 amps... something to think about.

Big Perm
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rudee023 wrote:Jumpin' jimmeny Christmas that's one spicy meatball! I rewired them and the car is running beautiful now, pulls like a mo'fo. I wired the fans to the fuse when I first got them just to see if they worked and I left them. They were definately draing power from the pump. Anyone who has this setup and is having power problems check this!


What / Where did you rewire the relay to? I also was using the fuel pump fuse for my relay.

Where did you tap in?

Thanks:help

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RobDET
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Summit has several different thermostat controllers for electric fans. They aren't expensive. I have the flex-a-lite one now i think.

(look for the one with the copper probe that goes in the radiator hose not the pastic probe that you push into the radiator, that one sucks bigtime!)

caliracer240
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Screw thermostats, i just used a 40amp relay i had laying around from when i installed car audio/security. Wired it up having the fuel pump 12v switched turn the relay on and then a full battery 12v to the fans. THEY ARE LOUD AS HELL!!

ca18det_boy
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RobDET wrote:Summit has several different thermostat controllers for electric fans. They aren't expensive. I have the flex-a-lite one now i think.

(look for the one with the copper probe that goes in the radiator hose not the pastic probe that you push into the radiator, that one sucks bigtime!)


I haven't seen a plastic one that goes into the radiator. All of the adjustable thermostats that I've seen are all copper. (The ones that go into the radiator that is)

nnkfws333
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Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 and a 1989 Nissan 240SX

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Quote »Screw thermostats, i just used a 40amp relay i had laying around from when i installed car audio/security. Wired it up having the fuel pump 12v switched turn the relay on and then a full battery 12v to the fans. THEY ARE LOUD AS HELL!![/quote]

So that fuel pump only turns on the relay and then the battery takes over to supply the thermostat and the fuel pump doesnt do anything else? I mean after the thermostat turns on does the thermostat get anything from the fuel pump fuse? Just a curious question.

I have my fans on a relay with the battery as the power source and have the fuel pump fuse to turn on the relay...what other fuse could I use to test my thermostat?

Anand
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I have mine wired up the same way. I have a power wire going to the relay and then I have my fans and the fuel pump both powerd from the same relay and it works absolutely fine. I have dual 12" SPAL fans... I don't notice any power loss??????

IvoryJ30t
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the copper capillary tubing/microswitch sensors are the best.

what i usually do is run the copper thermo line, and connect a direct line from the battery, through a 30 amp fuse, through a 30 amp relay triggered by ignition, then the fans, then the micro switch sensor makes and breaks the ground.

TruboostPerformance
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Its best to wire in a relay to supply the fans by its self. Constant power from the battery then a switched source to turn them on

caliracer240
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yea i have my fans (87a) on a relay hooked up to a constant 12v (30) battery and the fuse from the fuel pump as my relay turn on (86) and the other side grounded to the body (85).

f150intally
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search on summit racing for hte derale thermostat. it is heavy duty, comes with relays and everything, and it much more accurate than the copper senders.

Let me save you some time

I use this thermostate on my truck dual fans and my 240 dual fans. adjustable from 150-230 degrees farenheit.


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