245/45/18 is 1.4% bigger than stock proportions so you'll have 10mm (0.5") more for the diameter. if you drop with eibach you have...7mm of clearance bettween the fender tip and your wheelkidatheart wrote:That is good information. Just to make sure I am thinking correctly here for my situation I am considering 18" wheels that are 18 x 8.5 w/ +35 offset and putting 245/45/18 tires. Based on what I think I understand your description to read I will not be able to do a drop without rolling the wheel well??? At least not with the Eibach. I am guessing that if I hold out for the Tanabe coilovers I would be OK.
ok, I haven't done the math, and I'm not sure how you came up with these numbers, but i'm not sure its as simple as the above diagram. Eric has 225 tires on his 18 x 8" wheels with +45 offset, and he had to use +7mm spacers to get his wheels flush with the fender. So, with that being said, his 225 wide tires on a 8" wheels would have fit just the same if his offset was +38 instead of +45 with spacers...mcheddadi wrote:
245/45/18 is 1.4% bigger than stock proportions so you'll have 10mm (0.5") more for the diameter. if you drop with eibach you have...7mm of clearance bettween the fender tip and your wheel
Your wheel proportions are 2.1% less than stock so you have 14mm less in diameter than stock. with 245 and 40+ offset you are going to be 20mm farther than stock, so the 10mm theoretical limit is breached. So since you have 14mm less than stock your going to have 17mm + 14mm = 31mm (1.22inch) of vertical space from tire to fender tip. you might now rub if the suspention is stiff enough to limit the wheel travel to those 31mm.IMrGoodBarI wrote:so if I am understanding this with my rims 19x8 with 40 mm offset with a tire of 245/35/19 I would rub
I really hopes it does tucks inward a LOT toward the top. I guess we will know for sure soon enough with the eibach group buygeneric808 wrote:If you look at the way a suspension articulates and compresses, you'll see that in theory, it all seems good, but in actuality, things are sometimes different. There are many factors to take into consideration, especially camber, caster and toe. If you notice when your suspension compresses, it tucks inward toward the top? So sometimes the measurements you listed won't apply.
This post is great, and it's good to see that you put all the info together; however, real world applications sometimes don't apply to the measurements. It's a good guideline though. You never really know if you're going to rub until you actually have your set-up going. Of course, there's always the fail-safe +45 offset of the factory wheels.
rjdmmfl1 wrote:
ok, I haven't done the math, and I'm not sure how you came up with these numbers, but i'm not sure its as simple as the above diagram. Eric has 225 tires on his 18 x 8" wheels with +45 offset, and he had to use +7mm spacers to get his wheels flush with the fender. So, with that being said, his 225 wide tires on a 8" wheels would have fit just the same if his offset was +38 instead of +45 with spacers...
Bottom line is, we could all do as many rough numbers estimates as possible, but none of us can make any real claims as to what will or will not rub until we put the Eibachs on, and fins out exactly how stiff the suspension is with the Eibachs.
Because of the way Eibach does its R&D, I believe they keep the same spring rate as the factory, just in a 1" lower spring. In any case, we will all see next month when we all install our springs, and post on here what does and does not rub with various offsets, wheel widths, tire diameters
SHIFT_COUPE wrote:Blake man, that doesn't look too good. Take some shots with the wheel turned in when you get a chance. I'd like to see how far from the wheel well it is.
you got 0.5 inch more diameter than stock, and you are 22mm farther than stock...so with a drop if you don't rub anyone can buy springs lool!LongBeachCoupe wrote:MChdeaddddi lol... So your mystical math says that i will have an issue? 20x8.5 245/35/20 +38
Its not loose. Its just the way it sits after the Stillen upgrade. Its connected at all pointsjohnny_d wrote:Blake,
I noticed the bottom part of the fender guard was loose, was it like that before or after the rub?
Eric,...would that be with a wooden of Aluminum bat? If one does decides to "roll" their fenders, when you start the actual rolling, wouldn't that effectively make the flat part of our fenders slanted thus pulling the fenders outward? Just curious of how that would look.generic808 wrote:"Rolling the fender" is a technique used to pull the fender outward to allow for wider wheels/lower offset. Old school ways of doing this is with a wooden baseball bat placed between the tire and fender. You slowly drive your car foward, allowing the bat to "roll" the metal fender outward. There are better techniques used these days, but the BB bat method still works well if you know what you're doing. I used that technique on my old S13 and it came out pretty nice and even.
Oh...wooden of course. You don't want to take metal to metal. I did it the old school way back in the day. The Eastwood tool is the best method, IF you can get a hold of one.dangeris wrote:
Eric,...would that be with a wooden of Aluminum bat? If one does decides to "roll" their fenders, when you start the actual rolling, wouldn't that effectively make the flat part of our fenders slanted thus pulling the fenders outward? Just curious of how that would look.
Would some one out there please do that to their fenders and post up the results as well as a "How to"?...
Well I found a couple of places that sells them out right for only $250.00 or you can rent them. Since my car is in the shop, I'm thinking of calling them and seeing how much they would charge to roll the fenders.generic808 wrote:
Oh...wooden of course. You don't want to take metal to metal. I did it the old school way back in the day. The Eastwood tool is the best method, IF you can get a hold of one.