egr temp sensor voltage?

Post by **left channel audio** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 5:41 am

92 ka24de calif model

when i do the test on the temp sensor.. i have 0 volts all the time the continuity from the sensor plug to the ecu is good.... the other wire on the sensor is the (-) or ground for the sensor.. and it says that the voltage should be below 4.5 volts at idle... im sure that doesnt mean 0 all the time .

also this sensor is about 2 1/2 inches long looks like a hexagon... a 19mm took it off hella easy to get to.. right on the back of the intake mani

when i hit the throttle it doesnt change. so is there a prob. with the sensor or a relay that supplies the power to the sensor????? btw that ecu is good i took it out of my buddies car and his car just passed smog.. also no cel ???????? i tested the egr,bpt,and the 2 solenoids on the back of the head.. all are good..

the way i understand it is the egr temp sensor sends a signal to the ecu to turn on the egr valve??????? by temp and backpressure???? well any suggestions would be very helpfull..... car has failed smog twice.. this last time everything was ok except nox... at 15mph its 1775 and at 25 its at 1574.. so needless to say i need to lose alot of nox... brand new cat back

Website · Post by **s13sr20chris** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 4:10 pm

no, temp sensor is just to help the ecm diagnose egr fault. it tells ecm when egr is flowing and when its not. it should be around 4.5 to 5 volts at idle. when the engine is warmed up AND you are driving under the right conditions egr will flow causing the voltage to drop. the conditions are cruising at speed to moderate acceleration. when egr has been flowing for a while(like on the highway) you can get the egr voltage to go as low as .1 volts.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 4:47 pm

The sensor voltages i have seen at idle is around the 3 volt range on a warm engine. That sensor is exactly what it says it is a TEMP sensor. The hotter its tip is the lower the voltage. That passage has temps in the 100's when egr is not flowing. When egr does flow it is sending exhaust gases through in the above 450 degree mark. If that sensor is reading 0 you are either measuring it wrong or its not getting its 5v reffrence. Are you measuring it connected?

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 8:20 am

yes it is connected....... where does it get it ref. voltage from?

i understand its like a thermocouple.. and since it is sping loaded i figured it also "saw" ......."pressure"..

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 8:42 am

It gets its reffrence voltage from the ECM red with blue tracer wire I believe. It is a variable resister it mearly gets its reffrence voltage on one side and it sends the signal back on the other. The temp of the sensor will depend on the amount of voltage making it back. Test the voltage on the black wire. this is your voltage from the sensor.

EDIT: it looks like the wires on the sensor side of the connector are yellow for reffrence voltage and blue for signal line.

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:27 am

right and i have 0 volts........ well i have another ecu on its way......

so can this problem make the egr not work at all??? this is the problem i need to fix..... why my egr does not open ... the egr valve is good but i get no vaccumm to it... the bpt is good and the sol works.. ive re routed the vaccumm to spec..."it was off before"... and still nothing.....

do you have a more in depth diagram of the vaccumm routing.. since the book isnt really clear.. .. when i hook up vaccumm straight to the egr from the throttle body it opens and makes the eng stumble at idle.. so its not clogged??????????

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:52 am

The zero volts makes no sence. Is it zero volts on the yellow wire when the car is running? There should be a vaccum diagram under the hood of your car on the hood blanket.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:56 am

Just to be clear remember the temp sensor does not tell the EGR to operate it only verifies that it IS operating.

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 10:26 am

with the car running actually they say in the on position... but yes even running it has 0 volts..also that lead does not have cont. to ground so its not bad its just not getting a ref. voltage..

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 10:27 am

the diagram on the hood sux...... haha.. even out of the fsm the daigram sux.. but if thats what everyone works with then it will have to do..

Website · Post by **s13sr20chris** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 12:25 pm

left channel audio wrote:with the car running actually they say in the on position... but yes even running it has 0 volts..also that lead does not have cont. to ground so its not bad its just not getting a ref. voltage..

ok, checking wires one at a time...you have power but no ground?

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 12:28 pm

Damn I wish I could find p00t's confused monkey he posted once. Cause thats how I feel right about now.lol

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:02 pm

checking wires 1 at a time... i have ground...... and its a good ground.. but i have 0 volts.. weather the cars running.. just in the on position.. or off... that wire is not recieving its refrence voltage.......... and i dont know why

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:26 pm

what do you get on the other wire?

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 2:20 pm

on the wire they say is ground..... i get a ground.. on the wire they say should be 4.5volts or lower at idle.. i get 0 volts.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 2:23 pm

Ohm check the sensor. check it unplugged.

Post by **left channel audio** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 3:23 pm

what should it be????

Post by **NISTECH** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:14 pm

It should have a resistance and not be 0 ohms. if it comes up 0 ohms it is shorted internally.

Post by **left channel audio** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 3:24 am

i will check it thank you.. when you find out what resistance could you tell me....... o nevermind.. it should change with temp right????????

Post by **NISTECH** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 3:37 am

correct, what you are looking for is anything other then 0.00 ohms or close to it.

Post by **left channel audio** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 12:44 pm

but it should have some resistance ... right... ill get back on later tonight...

Post by **left channel audio** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:56 pm

well i havent checked the resistance yet.. maybe tommorow.. but i did fix my vaccumm problem..... i just ran a line from the intake mani. straight to the solenoids... works just fine.. maybe there is a clogged fact. steel line or something.. but for now that prob. is fixed .... friday im gonna take all the fact vaccumm out and run what i need out of new line so i dont have any more issues.... if i only knew this car was a vaccumm mess....

Post by **NISTECH** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 6:00 pm

left channel audio wrote: but i did fix my vaccumm problem..... i just ran a line from the intake mani. straight to the solenoids... works just fine.. maybe there is a clogged fact. steel line or something.. but for now that prob. is fixed .... friday im gonna take all the fact vaccumm out and run what i need out of new line so i dont have any more issues.... if i only knew this car was a vaccumm mess....

This is why I love newer cars. your lucky to have 2 vaccumm lines in the whole engine compartment anymore.

Post by **left channel audio** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 3:32 am

werd..

egr temp sensor voltage?

egr temp sensor voltage?

Re: egr temp sensor voltage? (left channel audio)

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