EGR pregunta

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red240ne
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Alright, a couple of weeks ago i installed my hotshot header with my auto class, and we did a pretty good job. the main problem was getting the rusted shiit off. Anyways, we couldn't ever get the EGR tube back in, so i just left it out and put a O2 sensor where it was supposed to go. i plugged the lower o2 sensor hole. well, when i first started it up after that, it was kinda shaky, and it didn't really want to start up, like when you have a vacuum line unplugged, but it forced itself. ever since then it has had a rough idle, and i'm sure it's because the EGR is still trying to function. i was wondering if there's a way to tell the EGR to not function. Maybe if there's a sensor somewhere or something, or a fuse. I really don't care about EGR anyways. I'm just wasting gas, so who cares? it's not like i'm gonna be here when the world goes to crap.


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red240ne
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k car do you have a comment? come on kids.

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red240ne
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i'm gonna keep puttin this back at the top until daunt or k car or luv ur dsm responds...

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red240ne
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yea, but it takes a little longer to warm up.. it used to only take about 5 mins to warm up, but now it's more like 35 mins. do you think i should just keep trying to get the EGR tube in? i mean, i really tried for hours, but i just gave up. i would just take the EGR assembly off, but you know, i might as well remove the whole engine if i was doing that. also, there'd probably be a huge hole in the intake manifold.

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red240ne
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oh, no it's not.

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JNM240
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According to drjohn having the EGR removed or disabled will make your car ping a lot more when hot. I recommend putting the tube back in. Try loosening it from the EGR valve side, then fitting it into the header then tightening both.

Check this thread out:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=5944

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red240ne
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i guess i'll just do that, but i hate how they have to bury the damn thing. i'll have to take off my intake manifold to get to it probably, which is a hefty task.

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JNM240
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If you've bent your tube, get one from a junkyard. If not and it still wont go in, check the alignment of your header (it may be off by a slight bit). Instead of removing the entire intake manifold, you can get to the EGR from underneath with the starter removed, that should help the installation. I suggest you remove the tube from the EGR, install it on the header, then try to reinstall the EGR side. Good luck!

GELLIS2586
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Just take some JB Weld put it around the threads and screw it in as far aspossible the JB Weld will hold it in place and the egr will still work.

PabloHoney
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what the hell are you bringing back 3 month old threads for?

shawns1234
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Please excuse this and don't reply if you have done so on the other post I made... I am posting in two different areas in hopes to get an answer soon.__________________________________________

Ok guys.... I have owned my 240 for about 4 years now and love it!!! I bought it with a full length header and a greddy grapefruit shooter. haha Anyway, I have always have a bad exhaust smell that has never allowed me to pass emissions and makes me smell bad. ( not to mention the headaches )Obviously my cat is gone since I have a full length header, but about a year ago I replace the first O2 and the smell went away for about 2 months and then came back. I learned how to get codes from the ecu and discovered that my ecu has a reoccuring love affair with trouble code 32. EGR Function. Now, the workmanship on the header installation wasn't that great, although it sounds like a true bread race car, it is very obvious the the EGR tube that feeds the EGR valve is totally gimp at best. I decided to break down tonight and buy some more tools to troubleshoot this finally. ( 3 years later ) Prior to looking at this, I replaced spark plugs, distributor rotor, tested resistance on plug wires, O2 sensor again, and check compression on the cylinders. first three cylinders were all even at 180 psi and the fourth was a bit lower, but within limits. For the hell of it I poured a bit of oil in that cylinder to test again.. anyway, after that I put everything back together and cranked the engine. Well, remember when I said that the egr tube connection to my header was totally gimp??? Let's just say that the extra oil that I poured in the cylinder caused a LOT of smoke to exit the exhaust. This was expected, but the problem is that as soon as my friend started the car, blinding amounts of smoke rolled from the connection of the egr tube to header. This area was obviously much worse than I had ever known. Now so you guys don't worry about my engine, the smoke stopped within a couple of minutes. Now to my actual question. :D

Could this be the sole reason the I have been busting O2 sensors, failing emissions, running EXTREMELY rich, error code 32s, getting poor fuel economy, very sporatic top end and WOT response, loss of power from time to time, blah blah blah???????

I have verified that there is no vacuum from bpt to egr valve @ 2000 - 3500 RMPs. I imagine that is due to little or no pressure being exerted from the header through the EGR tube. I was going to run many more tests on the EGR system with my FSM and vacuum tester, but it started raining so there is always tomorrow!

Does anyone else know of any main problem that is caused by putting on headers that are related to my issues, and lastly, is it rare that I have a full length header, because everyone else seems to not and I can't find them anywhere fore sale??

Thank you everyone for taking the time to read and reply!!!

shawns1234
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Ok... I have done further testing. I know my egr valve is good, and I replaced my BPT valve today. No difference. I did find thought that if I apply pressure from a vacuum pump to the underside of the BPT, the diapham of the BPT closes allowing air to flow through and cause the egr diaphram to flex @ 2000 to 3500 RMPs. If I bypass the BPT and run straight to the egr valve, the same thing happens. It looks as if the underside of the BPT valve is indirectly connected to and pressurized by the egr tube. Is their a chance that with having a full length header, or header for that matter, that the egr tube is not getting enough pressure in order to make my BPT & EGR valves work? I looks like the stock set up gives the EGR tube pressure from all 4 pipes as opposed to just when with a header. I haven't been able to find any info on this, does anyone know??


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