EGR flow malfunction?

[jdurrty]

I keep getting this code even after replacing the egr valve and putting a new sensor. I'm assuming it may be a vacuum problem somewhere but I really have no clue. Does anyone have any sneaky tricks to get rid of this code? Thanks!

[Infinitiguy19]

Only way to get rid of it is to either fix the problem or reset the ECU and see if it comes back which confirms the problem.

[yodawill2000]

The two tubes that run from the EGR around each side of the engine that go into
the intake clog up on the intake end.
Easy fix !!!

[jdurrty]

Thanks guys! and yodawill2000-
What would NICO do without you?

[yodawill2000]

LOL
Thanks for the Compliment but when I joined this forum I didn't know SQUAT about import/Nissan engines.
I owe everything I know to this website and can honestly say I know 1/100th of what there is to learn.
Everyday I try to learn something new.
And to repeat many who have said it.
Study the FSM like a College Assignment !!!

Although I must say I'm stumped as to the missing "procedure" on removing the Intake Collector ..AKA Intake plenum.
Many pages say "Remove Intake Collector" but I'll be danged if they have a procedure.

[GerryO]

Can also be related to vacuum hose leaks between the EGR control valve (located on the passenger side of the engine) and the EGR valve itself.

[swimshark]

im living with a cel for the egr temp sensor since i removed the whole unit and capped the holes off with plates. some 300zx owners say they can bypass it with a 68kOhm resistor but it hasnt worked for me.

[jdurrty]

That's because the resistance decreases exponentially while the voltage drop is linear as the temperature increases. This makes it tricky to bypass . Here are the specs for the egr temp sensor:

Voltage


At 0°C (32°F) 4.81 Volts

At 50°C (122°F) 2.82 Volts

At 100°C (212°F) 0.8 Volts

Resistance


At 0°C (32°F) 7.9 - 9.7 M Ohms

At 50°C (122°F) 0.57 - 0.70 M Ohms

At 100°C (212°F) 0.08 - 0.10 M Ohms

[SteveTheTech]

I keep getting this code even after replacing the egr valve and putting a new sensor. I'm assuming it may be a vacuum problem somewhere but I really have no clue. Does anyone have any sneaky tricks to get rid of this code? Thanks!

If you are driving this car in a state that has an annual emissions test or other inspection defeating the egr is pretty much against the law. The most common cause for an EGR related dtc of acceleration complaint is a lack of flow caused by clogged passageways. Part of the challenge of keeping these cars running well is keeping everything working correctly. You all can test your egr function real quick by pulling up on the egr valve if the car dies quickly your tubes are most likely clean. If the idle stumbles but doesn't die (like mine) you need to pull the tubes off and thoroughly clean them. Defeating the egr on a naturally aspirated daily driver will most likely have more cons than pros.

Checking any driveability concern (or foul odor) should always contain an egr function test, the least of which should include a visual inspection or all hoses to and from the BPT valve and egr valves. The hose under the BPT valve tends to wear out over time and should be replaced if needed.

Even if your car has a rough body if you can keep the car running reliably enough to start consistently and get you where you need to be you will win the J30 game.

[swimshark]

mine and my other 3 friends dont have egr and we pass emissions with flying colors. you just got to keep maintenance up and make sure your intake system is clean.