eff e-fans!

[BoostFab]

try these low profile clutch (pull) fans, without trim the hek out of your old plastic ones.http://www.flex-a-lite.com/aut....html

[rb240det]

The setup looked really nice man, seemed to be pretty efficient as well. Good to hear it's working out.

[Spazz]

carl , what kinda rad are you using? whats the dimensions and part#

[krayton]

carl , what kinda rad are you using? whats the dimensions and part#

ditto. im hoping i can jam my koyo under neath it so i dont have to buy a new radiator.

and do you still have your wiring harness under there? is that why you didnt go farther?

[240z4u]

Carl, quickie for you, what kind of ambient temps are you normally driving your car in?

My car gets hot fast in the summer when its 100+ out, and I know adding a/c will just make things worse so I am looking at everybodies setup.

my motorset came with a hub and a blade, everything else was toast LOL.

Evan

I did add ducting infront of the radiator that attaches to my front airdam, and it made ALL the difference for highway driving.

[Carl H]

krayton - there is a wire harness under the rad, rather infront of it that prevents it from going further forward but the real kicker is the mounts above the tc rods... there are a few bolts that prevent the rad from moving forward more on the bottom, proly another 1/4" clearance to be gained if you made new brackets but i said eff it and didnt. yes the wireharness is still there.

240z4u - amient temps vary but from what ive seen it doesnt matter with this new setup as out weather has been weird ranging from 30-70*f, in warmer weather it seems like it runs a degree higher but thats it. i should note that i dont have any ac stuff on my car so if you want ac this will proly not work as the rad occupies the ac condensers old spot.

spazz - the radiator is a griffin off the shelf part, i think its actualy for a mustang lol, i'll dig up the pn i used but be warned the outlet is 1.75" instead of the 1.5" inlet so fab work is required for sure.

after driving tonight im glad that i did this, i was able to fully enjoy my car without having to worry about coolant temps spiking or getting to hot.even after a few pulls and some light 'spirited driving' (clutch is being broken in cant be mean to it yet) temps still were 82-85c and only got to 85 after sitting at a stop light for a few min and halted.again say what you want about the setup but it works and its very effective.do i reccomend everyone go out and ditch your efans for this? no.i did this as an honest last resort before i got too frusturated with the car and parted it out, so it works and i can enjoy the car now.i still need to fab up a shroud which should allow for even better cooling as well as a lower air guide for inbetween the ic and the core support. whenever i get around to doing that i'll post pics to suit.

[krayton]

shroud will drastically improve those temps too.

those are good temps, and just for an idea for everyone else, i have full ducting, koyo and dual pullers. my temps on track are 100C, and ill shut down at 110C for overheating

keep in mind thats beating the motor to holy hell in desert heat

[240z4u]

Thanks carl, I knew that I would not be able to use the mechanical fan but that info is good for reference.

I am glad to hear it worked out so well for you though.

Evan

[jrb92se]

you pretty much should use oem electric fans from another vehicle they work better usually then after market fans, i have a codensor fan from a frontier and an s14, the hottest mines ever gotten since i rewired all my stuff and got the koyo is 190. one of them is hot wired through a fuse and relay and the other is hooked to a thermostat
Modified by jrb92se at 6:19 PM 12/7/2006

[rcrdps]

also to all those people who claim that their cars 'dont overheat' using efans, what gauges are you using to monitor coolant temps...i have a pfc as well as defi gauges mounted in the head.

The setup:My brother "Wulfgang" built my car, but I think my info is correct. RB20. Dual Perma Cool(?) 12 inch fans. He built a controller for them. The first one kicks on at 80*C, the second one at 90*C. A/C works. To make the A/C cold while idleing, I wired/w diode the A/C relay to the second fan relay. The radiator is the stock KA radiator.

In the summer, before I wired the fan to the A/C, the first fan kicks on when you're sitting there, or driving slow. Second one would occasionally kick on, but not for long. Summer temps here are usually in the 90's.

Now, with outside temps lower, the fans rarely kick on. That sometimes happens when I am stopped in traffic. But they don't stay on. They're off more than they're on.

If I'm not mistaken, your gauge is usually driven off of the sensor in the radiator. Your ECU uses the one up on the engine usually not too far from the thermostat. Remember that when your gauge says cold, but the engine is hot.

With my consult, which is reading the engine temp sensor( not the radiator), it usually shows around 82-84 degrees.

So the engine is at 80 degrees or so,... and according to when the fans are kicking on, the radiator is less than 80 degrees probably 98% of the time.

This is a daily driver. I drive it to New Orleans every day which is an hour and 15 minute commute,.... and very often I'm stuck in stop and go traffic. It has never overheated. As a matter of fact, before my brother made the controller and just had the fans wired up always on, the car wouldn't warm up if it was left idling.

Now,.. I didn't write this to say anything about your install. That is cool that you did it that way. There are lots of "best practices", that in some minds become "rules". Like the KA radiator. It may not work for everyone, but not everone has the same setup.

Gene