ECU Talk for the G50 Q45

[Infinitiguy19]

Hey after Isaac told me how to correct the timing on OBD Scan Tech Nissan, I got to think how can I fix ECU talk. Well I did...I fixed ECU talk so now it reads 15* BTDC like it should

Download here: http://ppastos.q45.org/Softwar...k.ini

Add the .ini file to where ever you have ECUtalk.exe and it will work. I think if you update to the latest ECU talk program each time one is available the INI file will remain the same unless manually changed.

Again this .INI file is for the G50* Q45 ONLY!!!

*If the FGY33 (1997-2001) and F50 (2002-2006) Q45 work with ECU talk and have the same injectors the above file will work.

If you just want to know what I changed: I just added -30 to where it says "Timing offset" in the .INI file.

Enjoy

[qsiguy]

The latest version of ECUTalk has this built in. I had him add that back when I first started using it. Click the "Options" tab, then "Other" tab. It's the 2nd setting from the bottom.

"Timing Offset (US -35 restart)"

And it needs to be offset by -35* not -30*

Nissan Data Scan is also off by +35*

[AlabamaDan]

You have to buy ECU Talk initially right? This is just a fix for the configuration?

[qsiguy]

ECU Talk has always been free and there is no need for a "fix".

Download it here for free, donate if you like it.

http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx

[Infinitiguy19]

I see what he means now, Please delete this topic.

[nismotuner82]

Where do you guys get the OBD I cable for a labtop to OBD I connection from? I am assuming I would be able to change lots of different parameters?

[NewKleer]

you can buy cables from ecutalk - http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspxalso plms and blazt (more expensive, but also good quality options).

the topic is probably still relevant - some people dont realise their timing isnt reading correctly (some people will think theyre actually running 50+ degrees BTDC which is insane) due to the US car issue with timing offset, and most consult software dont have the ability to offset it

but the ECU is read only. you cant 'tune' a car without a daughterboard (modification allowing reprogrammable memory). consult have active tests which are temporary, so you can say run +10% more fuel or whatever, but need to be running the software and its not retained next time car is started.

however the ecutalk lcd display latest firmware has adjustments, which are currently only active while on adjustments screen, but eventually may end up being applied whenever display is turn on main display, so you could run some adjustments to fuel/ignition if you know what you're doing.

next version of ecutalk software should have alerts - http://www.ecutalk.com/mantis/view.php?id=3 - similar to how the ecutalk v2 lcd display has them in latest firmware.

[Infinitiguy19]

Shane I thought that timing on the factory Q45 was 15* BTDC at idle and 20* BTDC in gear?

Well I did the -35 and even 35 and that yielded 10* BTDC and XX* BTDC.

So who is right here?

[qsiguy]

Well, good question. I thought it was 10* in park and 15* in gear. I have been in other discussions that were stating that most of the programs were offset by +35* if used on some US cars so that's what I've been going on. We should research this further I guess.

Regarding the ECUTalk LCD display I have it and it's awesome. The latest update with the fuel and ignition adjustments screen, alert setpoints, and the timing hi and low max values is extremely awesome. I have to admit, I did not realize you had to stay on the adjustment screen for them to be active, that explains why it didn't seem to make any significant difference, lol. For some reason I assumed you had to "Exit" to enter the value. This knowledge will be very useful!

One thing I'd like is a louder alarm for the warnings, or maybe an output for an external speaker, LED or something. How about a "factory recommended" mod to provide an output of some sort. Similar to what you did for the SD card reader mod....

[NewKleer]

the news post on firmware changes did have it in bold that theyre only active on the adjustments screen im still not 100% it all works as it should (dont have time to go to a dyno and test myself, and have been too lazy to get my AFR meter built), which is main reason i havent allowed it to take affect whilst on main screen yet (but probably will in next firmware)

see pic - immediately to left of buzzer, below the 1N4148 writing, are 4 resistors - the first 3 are the same, and then the last one which is spaced a bit further, is the one that controls the current thru the buzzer. its currently 180ohms, and could be 'piggybacked' with another 180ohm to bring it down to 90ohm, which would be the limit of the buzzer/microcontroller. or it can just be removed and replaced with a 90 or greater ohm resistor, if thats easier than piggybacking.

unfortunately with window up its loud enough, with window down is not loud at all and easily missed. with the mod it might be a bit louder, but chances are if you missed it before with the windows down, it still wont be loud enough with the mod.

as for a mod for LED or bigger speaker or similar, would be a bit tricky, would need a PNP transistor of some sort, that uses the fact that the left pin of that 180ohm resistor is grounded when the buzzer is going off, and 5v when its not, and use it to switch the higher load led/speaker (so it doesnt drop more current into that microcontroller pin hooked up to left of that resistor, otherwise itd fry it). would be harder to do cause ud need a seperate little PCB to put the transistor etc in.

[qsiguy]

I guess I should have read it more thoroughly, I guess I was just too excited to get it installed and on the road!

So the output of that IC is ground (or low) when active. What's the current limit of that IC? I'm pretty handy with electronics and could whip up a little PCB with a transistor as a switch to drive a relay, LED, or something. I guess another option would be to pull the buzzer and mount it remotely.

In the event this IC's output was blown, does it do anything else or would I just loose the buzzer?

EDIT: Oh, what are the pins on the left of that photo? I was looking at those the other day wondering what cool gizmos this thing had hidden up it's sleeve...
Modified by qsiguy at 12:51 AM 9/24/2009

[NewKleer]

yes the left of that resistor is hooked up to microcontroller (40mA current limit, its currently about 25mA with the 180ohm, 90ohm would push it just below 40ma, so u wouldnt want to resistor mod it and use it as base of transistor as that would be 1-10ma or whatever also)

i havent tried blowing it, so i dont know what would happen. worse case itll cost u $10 or so for me to send out another chip, so it wouldnt be the end of the world.

but u would be fairly safe if u just make sure you're using a PNP transistor and it has a base resistor to limit current to like 5ma. e.g. 1k base resistor = 5ma max being sucked into microcontroller, so its only going to be around 30ma total. then i think you hook up emitter to 5v, and collector to have the current limiting resistor to 20ma or whatever it is ur powering and LED (or whatever).

edit: the pins are for manually programming the chip, not important for end user. theyre mostly 'used' by the microsd card anyway. the more interesting is a bank of unused ones shown here if you look at the bottom right of the main chip. possibly that the chip could read voltages via those pins. only problem is wiring anything up more permanently means its not really 'plug and play' anymore.
Modified by NewKleer at 4:32 PM 9/25/2009

[qsiguy]

Ooo, now it's getting interesting. How about a wideband 0-5V input for AFR! Boost pressure input! I could wire it to a quick disconnect plug to maintain a somewhat "plug and Play" functionality.

Got any details for these inputs you'd care to share? I assume there would be more programming for you to do and it would need to be integrated into the display somewhere in the already full LCD.

[NewKleer]

anything thats 0-5v should work. cant remember all the pins there, but i think there is maybe 8 channels of ADC to read voltages. would require more programming to support and given the few people who would actually use it for something like that, would be relatively low priority compared to other features

[NewKleer]

FYI there is a new v2.03 firmware which applies adjustments while on main display/trip meter screens (before it was only when on adjustment screen) and adds an 'all trips' trip meter (same layout as 'current trip' meter).

[NewKleer]

ECUTalk v1.3.5 beta3 which adds proper support for diesel engines, including diesel specific sensors, also update to error codes.

ECUTalk v1.3.5 beta3 - Changes from v1.3.5 beta1 below:

• #105 Add extra sequential index column to logging
• #108 Russian language has trouble changing alert values
• #109 Add basic compatibility for diesels
• #110 Differentiate between petrol/diesel (as some sensors are shared)
• #111 Russian Update error codes (for both petrol and diesel)

v1.3.5 beta3 can be downloaded from latest news post here: http://www.ecutalk.com

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also, with the ECUTalk LCD Display - seems that via consult you cant actually advance timing, only retard it. so useful if tuned for premium fuel and u have to use crappy stuff, but not so to advance timing without 'getting dirty' in the engine bay

[Q45tech]

A quick and dirty way to reduce ignition advance is to fool what ecu see as coolant temperature.......anything hotter than 195-200F starts the 1 degree per 5F reduction.

A rotary switch which inserts zero > added resistance IN PARALLEL to decrease sensor from its 300-330 ohm reading.
Begin with 2000 ohms in parallel =~ 283 ohms

http://www.calculatoredge.com/electroni ... sistor.htm

[NewKleer]

the reduction starts that early? my fan kickin temperature isnt until 203F. but still a useful trick if you are stuck somewhere with bad fuel and have a resistor handy