So... I guess I need to get a new ECU. Do you thing pulling the car could have had anything to do with it. Also, when I turn the key all the way forward, my tach goes up to 4k and stays there.WDRacing wrote:Never heard of the car ECU buzzing. Probably the start to the self-destruct-sequence.
Thanks I'll check my grounds when I get off work.the converted wrote:I'd be willing to bet money on it being one of the relays over there and that you have a bad ground. Double check your grounds and see if anything happens.
Well, I just got done checking all of my grounds with a multimeter and they were all finethe converted wrote:That is without question a grounding issue. Good luck finding it.
Ok thanks, will do.the converted wrote:A multimeter isn't a good way to test because it won't account for the amount of current flowing through a ground. Disconnect the grounds and sand them down to see if anything changes.
Whenever I turn the key forward my tach automatically goes up to 3-4k and if I press my brake pedal it will go up even farther. IDK what is buzzing, but it is coming directly from where the ECU is. When I go to start the car, the noise dies down, but it won't start. It will crank though. I will check the chassis to battery and engine grounds tomorrow, what should it read exactly. I appreciate the helpthe converted wrote:Really strange. So tach jumps when you hit the brakes, and there is a relay buzzing by the ecu. Are there any other odd symptoms that you have noticed? I'm about to go look at the electrical diagram and see if there's anything the might be obvious from that point of view.
Also, have you checked the chassis to battery and engine grounds under the hood?
Yeah, my car was in perfect running condition before I started to turbo it. The only change I made besides exterior bolt ons was extending the wires coming from the MAFS so it could reach over to where my TB is.WDRacing wrote:Exactly, don't swap in a new ECU until we find out what happened, hell might not even BE the ECU.
Unfortunatly I absolutely hate wiring issues. When I get them, I rewire whatever is broke or disconnect whats broke. Obviously not an option in your case.
OK, so your car was in running condition, then you started installing a turbo. The only changes made being exterior bolts ons right? No SAFC, No MAF swap, No injector clips...etc, right?
Nope, battery is still in the stock location.the converted wrote:The more and more I think about it, the more I'm thinking Chassis to battery ground issue. The only way that I could find that the brake lights which ground out in the trunk would effect the tach is if the whole chassis was back feeding through the engine wiring harness to get to a ground. Did you move your battery to the trunk when you did the turbo install?
I'm sorry but I don't really know what your talking about.MagikDragon wrote:chassis harness over the front passenger tire? have you moved it after lowering the car? If not check for a short there.
Oh, alright. Yeah my car isn't that low. Do you think it's because I extended the wires coming from the MAFS?the converted wrote:The ground wire from the battery to the chassis is where I would look. Sean is talking about the wiring harness in the wheel well. Some of the slammed crowd has issues with the tires rubbing through the insulation on those wires.
Battery voltage is good, I've double checked every ground and I still have the problem It's really weird how the car was fine and then like half way down the road it justed started buzzing really loud.the converted wrote:Unless you shorted them out, I really don't see how it could be possible. And just for the hell of it, have you checked the voltage in the battery?