Sluggish after Timing adjustment. Injector leak issue.

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
User avatar
emiliog2276
Posts: 267
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 1:02 am
Car: 1990 300zx 2+2 NA
2002 Nissan Sentra GXE

Post

I used my timing light to adjust my timing. Before adjustment car drove well timing mark was at about 23 degrees.
Now i lowered the timing to 15 and the car is very sluggish when taking off from at stop it has to reach 3000rpm make the change in gear and then it will drive normally. The car idles fine, slight fluctuation here and there but quite smooth for the most part.



Also not really a issue but how do i make my timing mark more visible ive clean the area but i can just barely see the mark.

Second I keep getting an Injecter Leak ECU code.Ive always have gotten this ECU code. Ive replaced my injectors three years ago and still kept getting the code. Then did a plenum pull and replaced all the seals for fuel rail and orings on injectors but this code keeps coming back. My MPG is at 10.9 at the moment. Any idea what would be a reason for this Code coming up. While driving if i keep the accelerator pressed to keep the velocity constant is what always makes the ECU code come back.
ECU talk reads the Injector Duty Cylce at 2% and the Injector Pulse at 2.5 and the right hand one a little higher between 2.6-3.1 at times.

Just this week i replaced my O2 sensors and the connectors coming from the wiring harness. Voltage remains at about 0.89 and at times when the idle drops a little the right hand O2 sensor drops to about 0.2 and then jumps back to 0.88.
Last edited by emiliog2276 on Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:25 am, edited 2 times in total.


User avatar
nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

Post

I'm not much help here, but I do know people will take a bit of white out or other white paint on the timing mark to make it easier to see.

The O2 sensor voltage is intended to go up and down as the car goes from rich to lean. You know you have a bad problem if it just stays high or low all the time. I think there is a frequency that it should go up and down to watch for (say like 20 times a minute). I don't know what that rate is and 20 is just something I pulled out of the air to have a number. Hopefully someone will chime in with the right frequency range.

10.9 mpg is terrible. Definitely something isn't right.

agent4573
Posts: 68
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:10 pm

Post

Put some white-out on your pulley at 15* mark. How did you check the timing? I put a timing light on the feed wire going to the coil and it showed 15* advance. Once I made a high-tension extension wire and took it from there, it showed a true reading of 2*. You may have done the exact same thing I did and retarded the timing way too far because of how you hooked up the timing light.

User avatar
emiliog2276
Posts: 267
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 1:02 am
Car: 1990 300zx 2+2 NA
2002 Nissan Sentra GXE

Post

agent4573 wrote:Put some white-out on your pulley at 15* mark. How did you check the timing? I put a timing light on the feed wire going to the coil and it showed 15* advance. Once I made a high-tension extension wire and took it from there, it showed a true reading of 2*. You may have done the exact same thing I did and retarded the timing way too far because of how you hooked up the timing light.

I connected the timing light to coil pack connector, and i adjusted my timing using this connection point.

If i connect it to the PTU i get the timing mark appearing all the way at 30 degrees. When its at 15 when connecting via coil pack.

I moved it back to 20 and it runs well.

agent4573
Posts: 68
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:10 pm

Post

After my experience I'm convinced the only accurate way to get timing on this motor is to remove the coil pack and make an extension wire that goes from the coil to the plug and put the timing pickup on that extension. Anything else is just guess work.

z32loverboy
Posts: 516
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:05 pm
Car: 1990 300zx CRP N/A 5 Speed (wreaked, now a shell) SOLD

1993 Slicktop CRP N/A 5 Speed w/ '90 built N/A motor and interior

1958 Ford f-100 straight-body (Grandaddies truck, resto-project)
Location: Nashville, TN

Post

This is where the FSM becomes your best friend. It'll show you how to hook it up by nissan spec. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/

User avatar
t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

Post

Ignition timing should really be at 15 degrees, running anything higher increases your risk of detonation especially at higher speeds (more load). it sound like there are other problems going on if its sluggish at 15 degrees

twinturbozxtacy
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:13 pm
Car: 91 tt

Post

also if the car is not fully warmed up and hot the timing will not be what its supposed to be. my car reads 30btc when cold...

User avatar
emiliog2276
Posts: 267
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 1:02 am
Car: 1990 300zx 2+2 NA
2002 Nissan Sentra GXE

Post

agent4573 wrote:After my experience I'm convinced the only accurate way to get timing on this motor is to remove the coil pack and make an extension wire that goes from the coil to the plug and put the timing pickup on that extension. Anything else is just guess work.
The Z32 wiki notes that a honda spark plug wire works well. So would i connect the "honda" spark plug with to the Z's spark plug then end end of this wire i would connect the Z's coil pack?


Return to “300ZX (Z32) Technical”