Let me tell you, my car is really pissing me off! I was going to go on a road trip to Orlando Friday night so before i left work (Coggin Toyota) I pulled my 90 fastback into the bay and filled up all fluids and cleaned off plugs, cap and rotor! When i was inspecting my MAF I broke one of the wires that connects to the sensor. No big problem right? Well it broke right at the connector so I couldn't splice it back together. Well it took me three hours to jerry rig something so that i could get home to my soldering iron. I got home and checked my ecu to see what code it displayed and it was (12 Air flow Meter/circuit open or shorted ). Well the whole ride home I was blowing black smoke sputtering terribly, and backfiring A LOT!
This morning i soldered the connector back together, and the engine was still misfiring and blowing black smoke. I went back to my ECU and checked the error code: (33 Oxygen sensor or circuit (300ZX left side) - all other models EGR malfunction) was displayed.
I took out the O2 sensor and it was completely black and covered in carbon build-up. I went to advance auto parts and got a new bosch o2 sensor. Installed it and it made no difference. I checked the codes again and it still showed 33!
So I took off my egr and took it to work to clean it off. Sprayed it down with brake cleaner and blew it off with compressed air to evaporate all remaining cleaner. I checked to see that the valve inside still worked on suction (via sucking on it with my mouth) and it opened and closed fine. Reinstalled it and it made no difference to my engine. Checked the codes and it still displays code 33!
I have no idea what to do next. Work is closed for the weekend, so i can't ask one of the technicians, and i need my car for work on monday.
Cliff notes: broke MAF connector - replaced it - ECU displayed code 33replaced o2 sensor - ECU displays code 33cleaned EGR assembly - ecu still displays code 33what is my next step?
thanks,-DbD-
ECU code 33, but i replaced the O2 sensor, and cleaned EGR??????????Help!
1990 SOHC stock everything! I have a hole in my exhaust pipe around the muffler and another on right before the cat. I truelly doubt that is causing anything, but you asked for specifics.
Does anyone know the actual way of resetting the ecu for a 1990 ka24e? I tried the way on zilvia.net and the way explained on 240sx.org faq and it doesn't seem to work. Can anyone verify that the one on 240sx.org is correct for my car?
Does anyone know the actual way of resetting the ecu for a 1990 ka24e? I tried the way on zilvia.net and the way explained on 240sx.org faq and it doesn't seem to work. Can anyone verify that the one on 240sx.org is correct for my car?
I did this and evidently it didn't work, or it is working but thowing a "hard code" as you said.
I turned the ignition on (not starting it)waited two seconds turned the dial on the back of the ecu fully clockwisewaited two secondsstarted the carwaited two secondsturned the dial fully counter clockwise!
I then check the codes:
I then turned the car offturned the ignition to onturned the dial fully clockwise waited until the lights blinked three timesturned the dial fully counter clockwisecounted the number of red light blinks - 3counted the number of green light blinks - 3
indicating code 33
If this is the improper way of resetting the ecu please tell me the right way for a 1990 ka24e
I turned the ignition on (not starting it)waited two seconds turned the dial on the back of the ecu fully clockwisewaited two secondsstarted the carwaited two secondsturned the dial fully counter clockwise!
I then check the codes:
I then turned the car offturned the ignition to onturned the dial fully clockwise waited until the lights blinked three timesturned the dial fully counter clockwisecounted the number of red light blinks - 3counted the number of green light blinks - 3
indicating code 33
If this is the improper way of resetting the ecu please tell me the right way for a 1990 ka24e
i think you have to take the ecm through the other 2 modes before it will reset. at least thats the way i have to do it when using nissans factory tool that plugs in for pulling codes.
http://www.240sx.org/faq/index.html goto ecm code pulling for sohc it has the full procedure for doing it by the screw method. I have never had to do it that way my self.
http://www.240sx.org/faq/index.html goto ecm code pulling for sohc it has the full procedure for doing it by the screw method. I have never had to do it that way my self.
I just checked the faq and it says this:
After the diagnostic, Turn the ignition 'off' to return to mode I.
To erase the memory, use Mode IV- Switch on/off diagnostic system.
So i waited for the red and green lights to blink four times then turned it counterclockwise?
Result...Nothing. When i turned it back counterclockwise the lights didn't blink or anything at all for that matter. I then started the car and it still runs like crap. I turned it off and checked the codes again and it still reads 33. I thoroughly sp? checked the vacuum lines and they all seem good and connected. I checked the wire comming from the O2 sensor as far as i can see it (to the rear of the engine it goes into the plastic covering and joins up with a lot of other wires. I then went to the ecu to see if i could find that same wire. When it comes off the O2 sensor it is a teal green color then turns into a fat black wire at the connector. Then when it goes into the ecu it is the teal green wire again. I don't see anywhere it is grounding out or anything.
I saw in my dads tool dest that he has a volt meter, but i don't know how to use it. If you could tell me how to use it i can check to see if any juice is going through that wire. (I am looking for a nice detailed tutorial on using the volt meter)
Here is the best discription i can give you of the way the engine is behaving.
At idle it is extremely rough and is blowing out black smoke. When i rev it up a little the smoke pours out and at about 2500 and above it backfires very loudly, and is still pouring black smoke.
For a while now my injectors have been leaking. I replaced the o-rings and insulators and the actual injector body must be leaking. There are pools of fuel on the intake runners. I don't know if this is causing anything, but i really don't want to spend the money on new ones because i am going to buy a new engine and transmission soon. But if you think this is my problem then i will cough up the dough (but they are going to be used, there is no way i am spending $400 on new injectors)
thanks for your patience with me,DbD
After the diagnostic, Turn the ignition 'off' to return to mode I.
To erase the memory, use Mode IV- Switch on/off diagnostic system.
So i waited for the red and green lights to blink four times then turned it counterclockwise?
Result...Nothing. When i turned it back counterclockwise the lights didn't blink or anything at all for that matter. I then started the car and it still runs like crap. I turned it off and checked the codes again and it still reads 33. I thoroughly sp? checked the vacuum lines and they all seem good and connected. I checked the wire comming from the O2 sensor as far as i can see it (to the rear of the engine it goes into the plastic covering and joins up with a lot of other wires. I then went to the ecu to see if i could find that same wire. When it comes off the O2 sensor it is a teal green color then turns into a fat black wire at the connector. Then when it goes into the ecu it is the teal green wire again. I don't see anywhere it is grounding out or anything.
I saw in my dads tool dest that he has a volt meter, but i don't know how to use it. If you could tell me how to use it i can check to see if any juice is going through that wire. (I am looking for a nice detailed tutorial on using the volt meter)
Here is the best discription i can give you of the way the engine is behaving.
At idle it is extremely rough and is blowing out black smoke. When i rev it up a little the smoke pours out and at about 2500 and above it backfires very loudly, and is still pouring black smoke.
For a while now my injectors have been leaking. I replaced the o-rings and insulators and the actual injector body must be leaking. There are pools of fuel on the intake runners. I don't know if this is causing anything, but i really don't want to spend the money on new ones because i am going to buy a new engine and transmission soon. But if you think this is my problem then i will cough up the dough (but they are going to be used, there is no way i am spending $400 on new injectors)
thanks for your patience with me,DbD
yes wait till the lights flash off the mode it is in. once you hit mode 5 it should wipe out codes. each mode has a specific function. mode one is o2 moniter you count the flashes of the light while reving the engine to 2000 rpm should be like 5 times in 10 sec. mode 2 is mixture ccontrol both lights flash in this mode . mode 3 codes. mode 4 is throttle closed switch. light should be on solid with pedal released and shut off with the slightest movement of the pedal and mode five is real time diag. there are like 5 items monitered in this mode air flow,speed sensor,and some others basic sensors i havent used that mode for diagnostics in so long i am begining to forget some of it. but that should give you an idea of what you are doing when you turn the screw.
NISTECH wrote:yes wait till the lights flash off the mode it is in. once you hit mode 5 it should wipe out codes.
What do you mean buy this? If i leave the screw in the fully clockwise position the lights blink twice, three times, four times, five times, then once, twice, ect..... I let it blink 2, 3, 4, 5, 1, 2, 3 then turned it counter clockwise and it still read the same code. I am so freaking lost on this one. There has never been a problem on my car that i haven't been able to fix until now. This is really frustrating!
after it flashes 5 times turn it back to its rest position. It would be great if someone who has used this procedure successfully would step in and offer some input .as i said, I do not use that specific procedure .was taught it once in tech school about 7 or 8 yrs ago. and have never used it since because we have a box that just plugs into the large black connector under the dash. but with that box when we get to mode five we flip the switch to go to mode 1 and imediatly shut the key off before it registers mode 1.
edit: read through the procedure my self came back to me now once you reach mode 5 turn the screw back to its initial position as stated above and shut the key off. this swill erase any stored codes. then after 10 secs off restart the car the light should be out if it comes back on you have a failure and need to find it. since the o2 is new you wil need to look for wiring problems.
edit: read through the procedure my self came back to me now once you reach mode 5 turn the screw back to its initial position as stated above and shut the key off. this swill erase any stored codes. then after 10 secs off restart the car the light should be out if it comes back on you have a failure and need to find it. since the o2 is new you wil need to look for wiring problems.