I recently purchased an '89 240sx manual transmission. The clutch fan flew off into the wiring harness for the ignition system with the previous owner. It was cut completely through. I have spliced the wires back together and matched them up correctly according to a wiring diagram i found on the Internet. I also replaced the following parts:
DistributorECUCoilPower Transistor (ignition control module) - swapped from other 240sx that i own that is runningSpark plugs and wiresrotor buttondistributor capResistor 2.2k ohms(orange) and black piece (condenser?) - swapped both - I know resistor tested good at 2.2k ohmsBattery
After going through all these parts i still get no spark and the ecu gives me code 21 (both ecu's do). I do smell fuel when i try to crank the car and it does turn over but gets no spark. The spark plugs are getting wet from the fuel so the injectors are working correctly. I have checked all the fuses in the fuse box. I do notice something that is strange, when i turn the key to ACC when i am about to crank the car the speedometer jumps to 35 mph???
Any suggestions on how to get the car to spark the engine?
Kenny[email protected]
Ecu code 21 and no spark
your no start problem is because the ecm is not getting a signal from the distributor to fire the coil(the code 21).I think its possible you incorrectly wired the cut wires. you are going to have to go through them throughly to fing the source of your problem. but the ecm is telling you it does not see a signal from the crank angle sensor or the coil.
4 wires to dist. is right but that is a completly different harness off the distributor. The wires for the coil are 3 they are Red/Black, Black/Silver stripes, and another color. I believe the Black/Silver striped cables are grounds b/c it is grounded to the side of the coil. I have a theory that the wiring may have been stretched/pulled by the clutch fan and somewhere down the line there is a breakage in the wiring (maybe even under the wiring insulation). I need a way to test the lines effectively with a multimeter/voltimeter. What would be the best way to get results, i am thinking that finding the correct pin's off the ecu harness and running up to the wires for the coil and ignition control module?
Do you think this theory is possible? If so do you think i should find a junked 240 and cut the wiring off of it from the back of the intake manifold and re-wire it on this car?
Kenny
Do you think this theory is possible? If so do you think i should find a junked 240 and cut the wiring off of it from the back of the intake manifold and re-wire it on this car?
Kenny
I have the wiring diagram laying in front of me and none of the wires you mentioned match the color of wires listed for the coil. The diagram laying in front of me is for a 1989 240sx SOHC KA24E one is for vehicles built before the last six vin numbers of 012039 the other diagram I have is for vehicles built after 012039. the wires between the 2 for those parts is identical. does this car have some sort of engine swap done??
yea i can scan the section with the ignition coil and the crank angle sensor that is mounted in your distributor. but be aware the wiring diagram does not show the colors of the wires coming off the component only the wires from the main harness. might this be our confusion here?? you could post a digital pic here on the site through the link in my first post in this thread.
ok in your picture the coil wires,the power transistor(you have it labeled ignition module) the resistor and condensor(you have labeled them incorrectly the black is your resistor) are all wired correctly and match my diag. the wires that you labeled where the cut is do not go to any of those components and I can hardly see what colors those are. if you could move all the other components out of the way and snap a shot of that harness with its connection in the picture I could probably tell weather its right or not.
All of the wires are matched with their corresponding color through the line all the way back. The wires that were cut are the ones i labeled in the picture but farther back in the engine bay exactly where i labled it was cut in the picture. I am thinking about getting a complete wiring harness out of a junked 240. The wires could have been stretched when the clutch fan came off and stretched one of the wires way back in the line and insulation could still be on it but underneath the bare wire is not connected. I wish there was an effective way to test this with a voltimeter or multimeter but, i am not sure how. I believe if you figure out the corresponding ecu wire in that mess in the pic and run a multi/voltimeter on the other end with the ecu harness connector and match it to the exact pin you could test continuity/ohms or something to see if the signal is running completely through the line. I do not know how to do this though and this is why i need the diag and to know which pin's to check on the ecu connector.
Kenny
Kenny
I am going to go work on the car tomorrow i will print this diag right now and take it with me. I will get you a better picture tomorrow. I have one other question. I heard that the manufacturers date on the 240sx must coincide with the ECU manufacturers date of the 240 that I got the ECU out of. From my understanding this does not matter, what does matter is if the ECU is from an 89 or 90 and if the car was automatic or 5-speed. The date of the car i have is 1/89 and the ECU i recieved is 2/89. I really dont think it matters but i just want a confirmation from you. Thanks a lot for the diag too.
Kenny
Kenny
it shouldnt matter that close as long as they are the same vehicle. but the ecu has 2 different wiring diags and it matters by the last 6 numbers of the VIN. see the numbers at the bottom of the drawing? if your last 6 numbers of your vin are lower then that it is for your car now that would mean the car you got the ecm from would have to be the same. as far as the 2 diagrams go the wires for the dist,coil and transistor are the same.
I ended up fixing the car. I repalaced the whole engine wiring harness with one from a junk yard and replaced the box that resides behind the ecu and as soon as i got it all together the car came alive. Now i have a problem with the car ticking under the valve cover (i think). I have been told it is the hydrolyic valve lifters but i wanna be for sure before i stumble upon this. The ticking doesnt happen until the car goes above 2800 rpm so at idle you do not hear it.
Kenny
Kenny
What is the best way to resolve this issue rather than replace the timing chain? Or should i even be worried? It is a very annoying sound. On my other 240 i could hear it all the time when i had to replace the timing chain but the sound would only come about when it was warm this car does it when its cold/warm/hot.
Kenny
Kenny