ECU 34, rough idle, low oil pressure

[TCook300zx]

So as of right now these are the symptoms/problems i'm having
1990 300zx NA 2+2:
1. ECU code 34(faulty detonation sensor)
2. Low oil Pressure
3. Rough idle
4. Moisture from the left exhaust pipe
5. No power up untill 3000 rpms.

So when I start it up the idle is rough jumping between 6-800 before resting at the standard 900 for a few seconds, the car just dies from jumping so low on rpms along with the low oil pressure, I had the oil sending unit changed and a different gauge hooked up to show that I had 0 oil pressure during idle but once I give it some gas it hesitates up until I slowly start rolling and once passing 3000 rpms the car starts running a little normal but once I slow down the oil pressure drops down and the idle continues to be rough. I imagine the faulty detonation sensor (knock sensor) is possible responsible for the moisture coming from the exhaust. Most people say that the best bet for the knock sensor is to bypass it. Suggestions please for the love.

[t.mcginley.jr]

First, DON'T BYPASS IT. Relocate it.

Second, moisture in the exhaust is nothing special, water is a byproduct of combustion. If it smokes or has an odor then its a problem, but regular water dripping out isn't an issue.

A faulty KS will cause loss of power, but not rough idle or low oil pressure. The rough idle could be many things. I would start by checking your throttle position sensor on the driver side throttle body with a multimeter, the how-to can be easily found if you Google it. Then I would remove the MAF and clean it will MAF cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Then I would do a power balance test to see if any of your injectors are not firing. With the car idling, pull the coil pack connectors one at a time. Each time the idle should drop, if it doesn't then the injector (or coil back, but not likely) is bad.

Low oil pressure could be a worn out oil pump, how many miles are on the car?

[TCook300zx]

First of all thank for your advice and replying to my thread, I really appreciate it, but there is quite a few miles on her so an old oil pump is defiantly plausible but I hope not cause that would really suck. I’ve found a relocation kit so that'll be no problem to do; I’ve ordered it and its coming in the mail. I've also noticed that it's burning rich from the color of my exhaust. Tomorrow I’ll be purchasing a multimeter and some MAF cleaner and then doing the power balance test. Also my battery keeps dying every time I go to look at her or like when I went to check the codes on my ECU but I’m not leaving any lights on in the car and all the doors are shut so the only thing I can assume that it is that usually when I walk away from my car there is a sound coming from the door as if the doors keep locking or unlocking, somewhat like the noise when you hit the lock on the driver’s side and both door locks click.

[nissanfreak12]

Low oil pressure could also be a sign of low idle, old oil, thinned oil, contaminants in oil, and so on. You idle issue could be a vacuum leak, IACV issue, TPS malfunction.

What Mcginley stated is a great staring point. With the contacts on the electrical connectors, if there is green crud, a small file or screwdriver is very useful to clean it.

[TCook300zx]

Thanks for your reply as well! I've actually just changed my oil here recently, say a couple weeks ago and i've only drove her about 400 miles before all this.
Found this for IACV reference
iacv-aac-cleaning-and-testing-tutorial-t251133.html

And found this for TPS reference
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... ensor.html

Now as far as a good method on checking for vacuum leak i'm not real sure on that one, what's your reccommended method?

[nissanfreak12]

One of these bad boys....

http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

[TCook300zx]

Which one kind sir?

*Scratch that, I got the right one so now I’ve got a knock sensor relocation kit and the compression gauge on the way in the mail, going to pick up some MAF or other solvent suitable for cleaning it today at O'Reilly's. Only other thing I need to assess is the reasoning behind my battery dying and the sound that seems to be coming from my door that sounds like my door locking on its own. Does the ECU reset to the standard mode 1 or its standard mode after you're done accessing it or do you need to move the screw around to set it back?

[nissanfreak12]

Which one kind sir?

*Scratch that, I got the right one so now I’ve got a knock sensor relocation kit and the compression gauge on the way in the mail, going to pick up some MAF or other solvent suitable for cleaning it today at O'Reilly's. Only other thing I need to assess is the reasoning behind my battery dying and the sound that seems to be coming from my door that sounds like my door locking on its own. Does the ECU reset to the standard mode 1 or its standard mode after you're done accessing it or do you need to move the screw around to set it back?

With or without the gauge, doesn't matter. I just wouldn't go more than 5 psi on a N/A, that still should be enough to find your leak.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Which one kind sir?

*Scratch that, I got the right one so now I’ve got a knock sensor relocation kit and the compression gauge on the way in the mail, going to pick up some MAF or other solvent suitable for cleaning it today at O'Reilly's. Only other thing I need to assess is the reasoning behind my battery dying and the sound that seems to be coming from my door that sounds like my door locking on its own. Does the ECU reset to the standard mode 1 or its standard mode after you're done accessing it or do you need to move the screw around to set it back?

I think the clicking your hearing could just be the security? Or a relay that's clicking on an off.

You have to turn the screw on the ecu back to the starting position to put it back in Mode I.

Your battery dying could just be a bad battery (worn out, not holding charge). Or it could be a bad ground. What condition are your battery cables in?

[TCook300zx]

A Relay clicking on and off sounds more like it, the battery is pretty new and I’m not going to lie the battery cables look kind of rough (mainly where they are connected on the firewall), I'll replace the cables regardless and if it doesn't help then hey guess what I have new battery cables haha found some OEM ones from a pretty solid website here: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... IS300&UID=

[TCook300zx]

It's been a couple days since I've last posted but since then I've got MAF cleaner and cleaned the hell out of my MAF as well as cleaning my filters and air box while i had it open, following that I ran the ECU again and found I've got a code 53 running through(right O2 sensor) and i've got the part ordered and will be in Tuesday morning. I also got the gauge to check for vacum leaks but i was wondering if you could give me the proper method on how to use it haha i'd rather not mess up anything else up. Still waiting on knock sensor to come in the mail.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Take the airbox and MAF off, stick the boost (vacuum) leak tester in where the MAF was, and put about 5lbs of air into the system with an air compressor. Then listen for leaks