My 99 !30 misses at various times. Always when in reverse, at low rpm, under hard acceleration. Sometimes no miss though.
Check engine light came on with code 302 (miss in cyliner 2). Switched plugs, then coil, then injector with cylinder 4 and the miss stayed the same and the code stayed at 302.
Brought it to the dealer who replaced the knock sensor and said I needed all new coils. I'm not so sure.
I ordered a new (used) ECM but the dealer will not program it since it is aftermarket. Can I program it myself? Any other thoughts on what the problem can be?
ECM Programming
Pre 2000 ECM's are not programable. what ever coil it is you moved from #2 initially replace it and only that one. Why did you order an ecm?? it wont resolve this problem. Even though you moved the coil as long as that code is stored it will stay in the system but after you moved it you should have also picked up a P0304 if it missed enough times while in that cyl. You should also see a P1320 at some point if this problem is that consistant. Try replacing the coil that was initially #2 and see if you have an improvement.
Thanks for getting back to me. I did clear the codes each time I moved a component, but no matter what I did the new code always came back on cylinder 2. I was never able to isolate it to another cylinder.
Also, I did buy a new coil and a new spark plug and that didn't fix it. The reason I bought the new ECM was because I figured if it wasn't the plug, coil or injector, what else could it be?
At one point I did have a 1320 and a 325, but they are gone since the new knock sensor was installed. HELP!
Also, I did buy a new coil and a new spark plug and that didn't fix it. The reason I bought the new ECM was because I figured if it wasn't the plug, coil or injector, what else could it be?
At one point I did have a 1320 and a 325, but they are gone since the new knock sensor was installed. HELP!
with the car idleing grab the main harness where it loops from the shock tower to the engine in the right rear of the engine compartment. move the harness up and down as well as side to side[as best you can,its tight] see if there is any noticable change in the idle. also where the ecm is under the dash near the fire wall. remove the cover near the passengers left foot. inspect the connector going into the ecm real good see if any water has gotten into it. These are to problem that happen but are not as likely as the coil failure.
no I agree with your feeling on that. if you replaced the one causeing the code the others arent going to solve it.. the key here is even though you put a brand new coil in that cyl it still throws the code. that leaves the ecm and the harness. since there are 2 bullitens on the harness and the connector at the ECM I sent you there first. it may ultimatly be a bad ecm .. but you should check the items listed in the bullitens first.
oh that kind of programming was possible in the 99 I30. I thought you were talking about flash programming the ecm engine control parameters. I totally forget about the NATS system thing. You have to have the dealer program it with consult. there is no way around it. nissan has done that to protect you from theft. the card used in the consult for key programming is only sold to dealers for their use as a security measure. If other shops where allowed to purchase those cards any one could get ahold of them. That would defeat the purpose of the anti theft device.
yes this repair is a real pain in the butt since there are so many wires in there. I have only had to do this repair my self once and it was not fun. you absolutley have to have a wiring diag for this so you can locate the ignition wiring. The wire will mostlikely not appear broke on the outside it has most likely broken internally you will need to follow along the wires insulation pinching it with your finger nails till the insulation seems to collapse easily[ by comparison to the other points] when that happens that is where your break is. you will need to do the pinch test almost every millimeter along the wires. once you find it you will need to cut the insulation open on that wire strip and repair the wire. once the repair is made you need to remove one of the 2 cable clamps at either end where it spans from the strut tower to the engine. this will allow for more free movement of the harness so it wont be pulled on and have some other circuit fail.
oh to help isolate which wire it is. Get the car back to a missing state. then shut it down. Unplug the ecm and the coils. With the wiring diag do an ohms check on the wires going to the coils. also check the ground wires and power wires to the coils. one or more of the circuits should show open[no continuity] that way you only have to check that wire in the harness.
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