I know it has been beaten to death a million times but after tonight im blown away! Went out to a meet with a few buddies who brought some new 240's and lemme tell ya. EBAY is taking over around here!!!

One guy running a t3/t0e4 what ever TURBOCHARGER on the compressor housing seen em before. Runs GREAT like hella good been good for 2 yrs since he bought it. No idea if rebuilt i checked end play no housing contact probly around a mm LOL but no smoke 2yrs.........forged pistons in it pushing 400 he says" doubtful....maybe 250 but its fast on the interstate! Treadstone cast manifold no cracks!

Another guy there had a g35 knock off ebay bolted to his sr with a ebay manifold. Ran it for a bit blew it....rebuild it himself (this guy probly doesnt know what a turbo even does KEEP IN MIND) Said he slapped it back together been runnin for few months not a issue again runs pretty good holdin its own with stocker t25 sr's.



I read WD's comments on a 07 thread that low boost fine if you run then anticipate the rebuild. So ebay rebuild kit too!!!! Im just blown away my buddy has gone thru 3 sr turbos trying to find a good one yet EBAY for real.



anyways im not one to risk an engine on ebay but im in at this point

I guess my quest for answers is

1) where and which rebuild kit?
2) emusa or CX does it even matter? Ive been hearing seeing and even used emusa's coilovers WIN (for the price at least)
3) anyone seen a solution to the turbo on top of the brakes thats affordable (chase bays delete is way outta my budget)
^maybe swain coating everything
^is there a turbo that hangs off a treadstone with more clearance?
^anyone seen a holset on a treadstone fittment??? while im at it...

EMUSA turbos are apparently balanced, that makes them leaps better then a std ebay turbo. I can't speak for CXRacing, but I have a friend that works with EMUSA. They are indeed balanced.

The newer cast manifolds seem to move the exhaust housing quite a bit away from the MBC. I don't have a link handy, but they are on ebay. Should be like 70 bucks or something like that. The ports are round and need work, but it's the best/cheapest manifold where MBC is concerned.

As far as turbo's themselves, I like EMUSA's GT2870 matched with a bottom mount manifold. Should have a really nice powerband and be good for a solid 15-18 psi.

WD

Mani should look like this I think,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-98-NISSAN-24 ... 43ac4119a6

That looks perfect compared to my last treadstone! My buddy said he read same stuff over on domestic forums about emusa. He said some people get them rebuilt and balanced by competent turbo shop and their good to go?

My ebay rebuild kit should be here monday http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Engine-Parts

I was skeptical and still am but timing chain kits are good been proven. NPR rings ive used before work 20k no problems in a honda. Toyota and honda forums say pistons are NIPPON work great website says JAPANESE pistons. My theory is since they dont make the oe pistons anymore they are likely the same ones just sold the rights or equipment. I guess ill find out although i finally found a competent machine shop 2 hours away with a sunnen bore machine and all that good stuff. They normally do import race motors not old circle track slop together stuff. Im stoked using everything but the headgasket FELPRO 30$ for some assurance! Reusing the headbolts maybe if i can figure out how to measure em? I think you can measure the "stretch" and reuse? Dont want arps (no torque plate for the bore / dont want to increase bore distortion) maybe im wrong.

Picked up a turbo from a 2.3 thunderbird 86 i guess standard shift model. IHI turbo T3 flange looks like it will sit perfect on top of either ebay cast manifold! I only paid 75$ dude said worked fine motor just blew. Wheels dont contact the housings and all the blades still there seems to be in very good shape. No back forth play maybe 3/4 of a mm up down play so its within street spec GOOD eh. I think its perfect for my power goals 200-250hp to the wheels would be fine.

Im on a budget again but at least ive got an idea what not to do this time. I found a couple fabricators and NO im not gonna use PVC PIPE and yes im gonna finally buy a wideband ...... Ill start a thread here soon of my build up... BUDGET KAT #2

Ill also share bunch of engine rebuild tips ive found read and heard.

The T3 from a Thunderbird is perfectly suited for the KA. It's just hard to find them in good shaped anymore. The manual Thunderbird had the .63AR hotside as well IIRC, so it'll flow a touch more then the .48.

Lookin fwd to the build thread.

WD

lexcrob wrote:My theory is since they dont make the oe pistons anymore they are likely the same ones just sold the rights or equipment. - Reusing the headbolts maybe if i can figure out how to measure em? I think you can measure the "stretch" and reuse? Dont want arps (no torque plate for the bore / dont want to increase bore distortion) maybe im wrong.

Tooling wears out. If Nissan no longer is casting pistons themselves, or if the original supplier stopped then we are dealing with new cast tooling.

As for the head bolts - once the fastener is torqued, and it stretches, it never goes back to its old properties. Just because it didn't plasticly deform (stretch), does not mean that the material properties are still compromised. In non-engineering plain english....

There is no way to guarantee that used head bolts will not fail...have I re-used them, yes. I however did not do it on a boosted motor. If you cant find a new set, I would use the ARP's - either studs or actual bolts.

superDorifto wrote:

lexcrob wrote:My theory is since they dont make the oe pistons anymore they are likely the same ones just sold the rights or equipment. - Reusing the headbolts maybe if i can figure out how to measure em? I think you can measure the "stretch" and reuse? Dont want arps (no torque plate for the bore / dont want to increase bore distortion) maybe im wrong.

Tooling wears out. If Nissan no longer is casting pistons themselves, or if the original supplier stopped then we are dealing with new cast tooling.

As for the head bolts - once the fastener is torqued, and it stretches, it never goes back to its old properties. Just because it didn't plasticly deform (stretch), does not mean that the material properties are still compromised. In non-engineering plain english....

There is no way to guarantee that used head bolts will not fail...have I re-used them, yes. I however did not do it on a boosted motor. If you cant find a new set, I would use the ARP's - either studs or actual bolts.

So you can reuse arp's? They also call for a torque and a detorque im guessing maybe for a different reason? Furthermore would you have to torque detorque the second or third time you use them.

On another note i got my bottom end back from the machine shop other day! They ended up assembling the bottom end for me charging double then originally anticipated.....ended up being miscommunication on his part at least. Reguardless it looks great and the owner took the time to meet me saturday. He even explained a few things they do and a nice little tour. Pretty much drooling all over myself the whole time!!!!!

Im so anal im about to purchase the tools i still need to check their work. Even tho it looks great an all theres some things im a little nervous about.
1) i can see arp lubricant on the oem rod and main bolts hmm......
2) they use amsoil assembly lube making the crank very hard to turn? He said not to worry at all as its because the lubricant. (i did rub some between my fingers finding it very sitcky)
3) I asked if they cleaned bores with HOT soapy water before final assembly. He said after the bore hone it was put into the hot jet washer --

I questioned all the above and he said they have zero problems from their techniques. Again i have no doubts about them id just like to verify everything before i entrust them for my down the road builds. Hopefully all is well and ill sleep peacefully measure 4 times build it once right*

Sounds awesome imho.

I got my ebay gt2870 a while ago to personally test its theory, and things bad a**.I ran it all correctly with restricted oil feeds, water cooling and this things been goin almost 10k not a drop of oil..it came balanced too