Ebay intakes

[Deadrodent]

Anyone tried these? Do they even fit/work? It just seems kinda shady that they're priced so low - like 40 bucks for a full intake kit...would it mess things up with the maf?

[SlowBack]

They seem to work just fine. They usually come with a MAF adapter.

[nissilvat]

the metal is probaly a cheaper kind, thinner and wont resist heat as much. there great for making cold air extensions.

[JPG0511]

I have one and it works fine. the holes to bolt it down on top of the radiator do not line up to well but i did not want to spend to much on one because i plan on going with a turbo set up. you can see it in the pic below

[A Spec Products]

as stated above, it replaces intake components and does not take away the MAFS so it works the same way.

just for engine bling and better breathing for the motor. and it sounds good in 4th gear too

[240sx2soon]

If you want to stay N/A get an AEM or Injen cold air intake. I had AEM on another car and it's great quality stuff. But if you plan on future upgades ( i.e. turbo ) get chesp ebay, I have one on mine, the fittament isn't the greatest, I had to fab up a support bracket to mount to the MAF to keep it from rubbing on the radiator brackets. But I also saved but loads over the AEM or the Injen by running some ducting from the drivers side lower facia opening , insulating the intake pipe with sticky back pipe insulation and fabing my own support bracket. It cost me about $55 total for all the stuff I just said and it works just fine.

[slydin'240]

I cut down my radiator brackets about a 1/4" and it fit fine. The kid who I bought the car off of just let the CAI rub against them (dumbazz). I also had some hood clearance issues that where also taken care of with the grinder.

[1991S13]

I wouldn't use the filter that comes with them.

Maybe Im wrong, but there is probably a reason why K&N or Injen filters cost as much as that whole intake does.

[Shift__BODOM]

nah, the filter is fine, as long as you do an INSTANT K&N filter "recharge"-in other words, clean it then oil it. those "dry element conical" (is conical even a word? i actually saw it on the package of one of those cheap autozone ones...) filters suck. K&N etc. filters are just cotton gauze held on by crosshatching wires on both sides soaked in oil that acts as a "tack barrier"

there are only 2 reasons K&N and Injen and AEM filters cost so much:1. company name (someone's gotta get paid...)2. you will never need another "conical"(lol) filter again as long as the actual gauze doesn't get excessively damaged or is missing

they could cost more, but they have you by the balls cause you need to keep buying cleaner and filter oil to keep it clean...i'm filled with 5am useless information
Modified by Shift__BODOM at 5:13 AM 6/9/2005

[slydin'240]

I heard the K&N oil is bad for the 240's because of a sensor. I also heard there was a service bulletin reguarding this.

[DjPantsSpecR]

thats close to being true. Actually, its not just 240s, and its not just K&N oil either. If you excessively oil a filter the oil can seap through and hit the hot wire on the mafs, burning it out, an expensive mistake. However, if you oil it up and then hook it up to your shop vac, you can suck out the excess oil if you are at all worried about it.

[Datsun280ZXR]

I tried using the K&N set up in my 1979 Datsun 280ZXR. Using the oil.....just clogged up my throttle body and air flow meter so that the mechanisms didn't work right. Why use them? Why not spend $20 bucks on a cheap chrome one that looks and does just as good of a job.

[naed240sx]

Yeah, like stated above, the metal is much cheaper, brakets bend easily, piping is often a lot smaller diameter, which causes reduced airflow and bends are often not mandrel. I wouldnt take a chance. I have an aem for my 93 s13 and it is very well made. It contains the maf sensor adapter, and the filter is made by k and n i believe. I had to make the same choice ur making myself. AEM made me happy. i got mine 140 off ebay shipped. Save up and get the good stuff.

[FliMSiCaL]

hehe, i just bought an adapter plate and filter, left the plastic intake on. Plastic is a much better heat insulater than metal is.

[Shift__BODOM]

thus nullifying the whole idea behind getting an intake. you get intake to replace the square tube with a round, smooth aluminum (usually) one. there is a difference too. after running around with just a cone filter on the stock intake, installing my ebay intake definately gave it more grunt.

[1991S13]

after running around with just a cone filter on the stock intake, installing my ebay intake definately gave it more grunt.

I second that.

If you were to relocate the battery to the side where the airbox is, and make a custom cold air intake that runs pretty much straight down on the passenger side (shortening the tube, eliminating a lot of bends) would it perform better than the "traditional" one that goes across the engine bay?

[DjPantsSpecR]

i cant say if it performs better, but i'm definately satisfied with mine. i use the apc knock-off greddy airinx style filter and it sits right where the filler neck for your washer fluid is. (you obviously have to relocate the battery, and the intake tube itself is a honda intake cut about eight inches mated to the stock rubber tube coming off the throttle body). this short ram intake produces a little more power up high than just a cone on the stock pipe, but it loses low end all over. not really recommended at all.

I removed my stock headlights and purchased standard rectangular foglamps. I then ripped out the H3 bulbs and replaced them with H4 headlight blubs. This allows you to cut out some of the area behind the headlight and actually use your "sleepy eye look" as a scoop like you always pretended to.

If you do this without building a cold air box the power gain is minimal, however once you build a box the horsepower gain from that alone is more than adding the intake in the first place. after running your car feel inside your cold air box and right outside of it, you'll see where all the extra power is coming from.

However, if you dont have 248/248 cams you might not have any business revving to where this intake has its most gains

[DjPantsSpecR]

oh sorry to post again, but the best part of this whole set up is, i'm sure it makes more power than an aem intake due to the box and scoop, plus you get a sick sleepy eye headlight conversion that actually points at the road. but the total build cost of everything is under 80 bucks

[Dattebayo]

Just so you all know, an intake does absolutly nothing without a larger exhaust. Despite what they say on the website and all that crap you are only getting a 2 or 3 hp MAX imcrease to the wheels by itsself.

[brisknfade]

I bought an ebay intake. It was a very bad experience... Look- First of all they vacuum tubes were place to close to the edge of the intake, which ment that the tubes were hitting the throttle body and the intake tube sitting over the radiator cap. And uh, dont mind that "cold air" tubing on the filter, this was a very long time ago...

I cut off a good 4 inches of pipe to the edge of the vacuum tube. Even then it doesnt sit right like you can see. ALSO the intake filter was a piece of crap. THE GLUE that held the filter cotton element to the chrome base MELTED and i was running around with my filter off for a while. After that i said screw it and put on my regular intake back on.

I managed to pick up an AEM Intake for 50 bucks of a Nico member here and bought a K&N for 30. Fits absoloutley perfect and no problems. Just reused the silicon couplers and the MAF adapter.

So essentially i paid 40 bucks for a MAF Adapter and 1 silicon coupler (It only came with 1??? Shoulda been 2) Plus i got the bling factor going on too..Haha. This is just my experience though, so yea. Gonna make a cold air extension with the old intake soon anyways.