What are some cheap and easy mods to add HP? I have a '95 240SX auto.
thanks
Easiest and cheapest +HP modifications?
Re: Easiest and cheapest +HP modifications? (jwwpua)
cheap, easy, and horsepower dont go in the same sentance
Re: Easiest and cheapest +HP modifications? (mmatl16)
I heard you could remove something from the air box for about 5 more HP. Maybe that's just not accurate thoughmmatl16 wrote:cheap, easy, and horsepower dont go in the same sentance
Ok to rephrase my question... What are some modifications that I can do for some more HP? What price range are they and are they things I can do myself?
thanks
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:: orion ::
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2003 4:40 pm
- Car: '96 240SX, with KA-T @ 12psi...
- Contact:
With an automatics transmission, it'll all be a waste of money.
Trust me.
Stock auto will run *maybe* a high 16 second 1/4 mile...that's pitiful.
I had I/H/E and pulley, and managed a 16.6...still pitiful. You're losing to stock Camry's and such...
I would NOT spend a penny on mods until you put a 5-speed in it.
Stock 5-speed car will do high-15s, easy.
So $1500 for N/A bolt-ons to get mid 16s, or $800 for a 5-speed swap to get high 15sw...you make the call.
(And sorry for using 1/4 mile times...you may not even like to drag race, but it's the only measuring stick that's universal).
- Brian
Trust me.
Stock auto will run *maybe* a high 16 second 1/4 mile...that's pitiful.
I had I/H/E and pulley, and managed a 16.6...still pitiful. You're losing to stock Camry's and such...
I would NOT spend a penny on mods until you put a 5-speed in it.
Stock 5-speed car will do high-15s, easy.
So $1500 for N/A bolt-ons to get mid 16s, or $800 for a 5-speed swap to get high 15sw...you make the call.
(And sorry for using 1/4 mile times...you may not even like to drag race, but it's the only measuring stick that's universal).
- Brian
Re: (:: orion ::)
So $800 to switch to a manual... hmm, how much would labor cost? I'm guessing quite a bit :/:: orion :: wrote:With an automatics transmission, it'll all be a waste of money.
Trust me.
Stock auto will run *maybe* a high 16 second 1/4 mile...that's pitiful.
I had I/H/E and pulley, and managed a 16.6...still pitiful. You're losing to stock Camry's and such...
I would NOT spend a penny on mods until you put a 5-speed in it.
Stock 5-speed car will do high-15s, easy.
So $1500 for N/A bolt-ons to get mid 16s, or $800 for a 5-speed swap to get high 15sw...you make the call.
(And sorry for using 1/4 mile times...you may not even like to drag race, but it's the only measuring stick that's universal).
- Brian
On another note, I read that by unplugging something under the hood, I will result in faster shifting with an auto. Here is the link: http://www.240sx.org/faq/artic...o.htm
I'm wondering what the negative side effects are of doing this, and does it actually improve time or does it just feel different when shifting?
thanks for the help
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slydin'240
- Posts: 880
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- Car: 1993 240sx Coupe, 2003 Maxima SE
- Contact:
Re: (jwwpua)
I'm interested in this too. There is NO DOWNSIDE?jwwpua wrote:On another note, I read that by unplugging something under the hood, I will result in faster shifting with an auto. Here is the link: http://www.240sx.org/faq/artic...o.htm
I'm wondering what the negative side effects are of doing this, and does it actually improve time or does it just feel different when shifting?
thanks for the help
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Florida240sx
- Posts: 11114
- Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
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1991S13
- Posts: 1230
- Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 5:59 pm
- Car: '91 240sx Coupe, '00 QX4 4x4, '02 Sentra Spec V
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There was just a thread about unplugging that thing under the hood to make it shift different...most people said don't do it.
I did it when I still had an automatic and noticed no difference at all.
From experience, I swapped my auto to a manual over the winter, it is awesome. It makes the overall driving experience better...for probably 2 weeks afterwards I didn't want to park my car.
Like miked said, the '91 cam swap could probably be had for pretty cheap if you find a salvage yard with some.
I did it when I still had an automatic and noticed no difference at all.
From experience, I swapped my auto to a manual over the winter, it is awesome. It makes the overall driving experience better...for probably 2 weeks afterwards I didn't want to park my car.
Like miked said, the '91 cam swap could probably be had for pretty cheap if you find a salvage yard with some.
Re: (slydin'240)
Premature transmission wear.slydin’240 wrote:I'm interested in this too. There is NO DOWNSIDE?
I like wasting my money . I work w/ what I got and do what I can.:: orion :: wrote:With an automatics transmission, it'll all be a waste of money.
The plug you guys are talking about is called the dropping resistor. This resistor controls the Fluid Line Pressure within the transmission. With the resistor unplugged the pressure goes to 100%. This makes shifts shorter. In all reality, on a stock KA it ain't gonna do anything. But when you start putting loads of power through the transmission its going to start to take longer and longer to shift. So if you're boosted yes you should unplug that.
Believe it or not, it will actually increase the life of the transmission substaintially. Think about it. Heat is very bad for AT's. When you get a long sluggish shift there are lots of things slipping within the transmission like the TQ and the clutch band. When the pressure is increased this slip is reduced and therefore heat reduced. Now it may put more instant load/stress on the parts but at least they aren't getting fatigued from heat. In general the interal pieces of AT's are overengineered when it comes to their capability to withstand shockload.
For example: I come from the Maxima world where people do this all the time. Mine used to be auto. I unplugged it and the effect was cool. I decided to put it on a switch inside the cab because it was too harsh for daily driving. I first did this "mod" back when I was stock. The difference in acceleration was imeasureable but the feel was cool. Then I started to get real mods that increased the engines power. By the time I was done modding the engine the difference was substaintial. With it off the shifts were instantaneous in all gears. With it on the shifts would lag pretty bad. Especially in first. This is due to the luxury idea. The gear difference between first and second is more substantial than any other. This means the line pressure in the transmission has to be the lowest out of any of the shift to give it that luxury feel. As we've established lower LP means more slip so the most slip was noted on the 1-2. But I'm all done with that BS as I just swapped to VLSD 5Spd.
On another note, another way to get totally free HP is removing the AC. Thats good for a couple. Now, I don't know how simple that is on these cars due to me never seeing a KA in person but on Max's it is very simple.
Believe it or not, it will actually increase the life of the transmission substaintially. Think about it. Heat is very bad for AT's. When you get a long sluggish shift there are lots of things slipping within the transmission like the TQ and the clutch band. When the pressure is increased this slip is reduced and therefore heat reduced. Now it may put more instant load/stress on the parts but at least they aren't getting fatigued from heat. In general the interal pieces of AT's are overengineered when it comes to their capability to withstand shockload.
For example: I come from the Maxima world where people do this all the time. Mine used to be auto. I unplugged it and the effect was cool. I decided to put it on a switch inside the cab because it was too harsh for daily driving. I first did this "mod" back when I was stock. The difference in acceleration was imeasureable but the feel was cool. Then I started to get real mods that increased the engines power. By the time I was done modding the engine the difference was substaintial. With it off the shifts were instantaneous in all gears. With it on the shifts would lag pretty bad. Especially in first. This is due to the luxury idea. The gear difference between first and second is more substantial than any other. This means the line pressure in the transmission has to be the lowest out of any of the shift to give it that luxury feel. As we've established lower LP means more slip so the most slip was noted on the 1-2. But I'm all done with that BS as I just swapped to VLSD 5Spd.
On another note, another way to get totally free HP is removing the AC. Thats good for a couple. Now, I don't know how simple that is on these cars due to me never seeing a KA in person but on Max's it is very simple.
What a ghetto thread. Just save money and buy real parts - theres really very little that you can do to not sacrifice feature (A/C - removal of backseats and dash peices) and overall car health to create power.
If you really like your car concentrate on tuning it up so it runs like new, that could be the best thing for you. If you want to do the Manual swap go for it - other than that, enjoy your car and stop trying to be the fastest thing on the road.
If you really like your car concentrate on tuning it up so it runs like new, that could be the best thing for you. If you want to do the Manual swap go for it - other than that, enjoy your car and stop trying to be the fastest thing on the road.
Re: (ArcherV20)
okay, assuming the body of the vehicle is in good shape, no corrosion:
1 first upgrade brakes to 300zx, and do a 5lug conversion for better wheel selection.
2. spend 5000 and grab SR20DET + perfectly chosen turbo+all the stuff needed for better efficiency.
3. or simply turbo your KA, assuming engine is in good shape. I'd do a full rebuild for above 400 rwhp reliability.
4. oh yes, upgrade the suspension. actually this has to be step 2.
thres no cheap, easy and reliable way to get better numbers.
btw, you want 5 extra horsepower, take out your air filter out of air filter box. I say "old skool", but wouldn't recommend it.
1 first upgrade brakes to 300zx, and do a 5lug conversion for better wheel selection.
2. spend 5000 and grab SR20DET + perfectly chosen turbo+all the stuff needed for better efficiency.
3. or simply turbo your KA, assuming engine is in good shape. I'd do a full rebuild for above 400 rwhp reliability.
4. oh yes, upgrade the suspension. actually this has to be step 2.
thres no cheap, easy and reliable way to get better numbers.
btw, you want 5 extra horsepower, take out your air filter out of air filter box. I say "old skool", but wouldn't recommend it.
Re: (ArcherV20)
ArcherV20 wrote:What a ghetto thread. Just save money and buy real parts - enjoy your car and stop trying to be the fastest thing on the road.
search around....learn some things, the best way to learn is trial and error....i just dropped about a grand into a motor build and i didn't even really upgrade parts other than the 91 cams which was mentioned before...