early 90's ka into 97' hardbody

[lego126]

Ok, my 97 HB died at 260K afew months back, and I finally found another ka to put in it. I do not know the xact year, but it is early 90's. I may end up rebuilding the one out of the aly 90's,(would do it to mine, but rod thru the block) if needd. My question is what are the diffences, between the KA in my 97, and the earlier KA I have? I have already seen that the 97 ka distributor, is different, won't bolt onto older block, intakes are a lil different, (only slightly) any help would be great.

[Rev_D21]

Mechanically they are similar except that early 90's are ODBI while 97 is ODBII. They have different injectors which the 97 ECM will likely have trouble operating. The early 90's will also be lacking some of the sensors and actuators needed to comply with the ODBII standard that was in place in 97 which could cause drivability problems and could run the risk of failing any smog tests you state might have. You could treat the swap as a short block and transfer your manifolds, ect. from the 97 to the other KA. Just don't expect the older KA to drop in as-is and run right away.

[lego126]

Thanks for the reply. I am doing just as you stated about theshort block. I am using my intake, and distributor, and oil pan. Since I had it so far apart, I went ahead and checked out the mains, and rod bearings, they were all in spec for oil clearances, so all I need it a timing cover to match my distributor. Mine was chewed up by the timing chain against the water port, i.e. Broke theguide, anwater in the oil. Anyway, thanks for the help, and maybe you can aswer one more question about the timing. If i'm not mistaken, the corrrect correlation as far as TDC between the cam and the crank is both woodruffs at 12 o'clock. Well the ones on this engine, is crank key is at 12, and the cam is at 1230 to 1. Is this ok, or should they be straight up and down 12?? Thanks again

[Rev_D21]

The chain links should tell you what position the woodriffs need to be in. Get the sprockets on, put the chain on with the timing marks lined up with the colored chain links. If it's off you will know because the chain links won't line up with the timing marks. Turn everything by hand so nothing gets damaged while you check cam/crank timing.

[lego126]

Thanks again for the response. I've read countless other forums and post about timing marks lining up, and best I can tell the marka will only line up once every few hundred revolutions or so I read. Maybe I should go ahead and get new setup.(timing kit) I can only. Find one colored link on this chain anyway, no wear on chain, gear or guides. When I took the oil pan off there as alot of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. Is that a sign of abuse? Or could that be caused from sitting for a couple years? It wasn't gray or discolored or anything, just about 3/4 to 1" of sludge. Once I get it started I plan on changing the oil 2 to 3 times the first few days to get everyhing outta there after it warms up. Thanks again

[Rev_D21]

It should line up once every 720 degrees of rotation if I am not mistaken. The Nissan OEM chain has two colored links, you should get that from the dealer.

Sludge could be a result of old oil breaking down over time, it could be a lack of maintenance too, it could also be the result of condensation in the engine not getting burned off properly(a result of not letting the engine get to normal operating temps...ie short drives to the store). Changing the oil a few times is a good plan.

[lego126]

Ok, i've began reassembly, got the timing cover and rear main back on, i'm on to the exterior stuff. I've been looking for some good detailed pictures. Maybe you know where I can get some? I've got thbook, but it's not very specific about where certain things go. I foundone good picture that showed a picture of the engine complete, outside of the vehicle with all extrass attached, just wasn't close enuf. Thanks for any help

[Rev_D21]

When I replaced mine I used this write-up to help me out.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/changi ... ka24e.html

It's written based on a 240sx but the process is the same.

Another article:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/sohc-k ... ement.html

Hope that helps out, it did for me!

[lego126]

Ok, well I finally got it started. It was idling good, running smooth, great. Well I shut it off after about 30 secs, ( didn't have radiator in yet) put the radiator in and fan, and I HOOKED UP THE LOWER HEATER CORE HOSE. I'm thinking I may have hit a wire or something. Well I out in antifreeze and stuff, fan, and hooked up the battery, and went to start it, and its just clicking, like the battery is dead, but I took the battery out and put it in the bravada and its good, maybe I hit a ground wire on the starter???? I looked everything over and cant see anything.. Any ideas woukd be great. Thanks

[lego126]

After deliberation, it was the solenoid that was clicking, after replacement, it!s good now, but I read somewhere that I should pour water directly into the block, to get the air out, so I disconnected the upper radiator hose from the radiator, and began pour antifreeze, well only seconds later I heard it hitting the ground. I've got antifreeze coming out inbetween the intake and the head, just below the water port. Anyone think my head is maybe warped or cracked? I rechecked my torque specs, and stuff, everything was good. Thanks for looking

[neverlift]

add a ft lb or 2 to the entire manifold, I know its a pain in the pen15. first post of 2011

[lego126]

Ok, I got almost everything worked out. My only problem is th timing, I followed directions on another thread, and got it running, but idle was rough, and distributor wouldn't advance far enoug, so I took oil pump out, moved a tooth or so, and it started good, idled a lil high, but when I drive it, if i'm holding it steady at like 20, and not accelerating, I can feel is sputtering slightly. So I put a timing light on it and, I still am off a tooth or so, cause I cant retard it enough to get the light to come on anything left of 15 degrees. When I advance the timing the truck idles smoother, but high, and it's way to the right of the far right mark on the pulley which is 20 degrees. So now I have it set at 15 degrees second mark from the right, the idlinging is slightly rough, only slightly, but it drives better. Should I let it alone or, take out the oil pump move teeth.. Etc.. Oh and just to make sure, when i'm adjusting the timing, I have to unplug the TPS, right? Thanks ain and orry for tlong post