E-Brake problem

[annunziato39]

I had stock rotors and pads on my rear brakes. I parked at my parents house who's drive way was on a hill. I parked up there, pulled the ebrake (did not leave it in gear this time) and went inside. When i came out i found the car at the bottom of the drive way!!! I thought my pads were shot so replaced both my rotors and pads, however when i was changing them i found they were worn, but not enough to cause my ebrake to lose that much grip. Now i have stock size brembos with axxis pads and guess what... the car still rolls. Does anyone have am idea what might be wrong? I'm guessing my stock brake lines are streched. Would new calipers be necessary? Thanks guys.

[silkk]

check the brake lines. it might be a leak? not sure

[corn322]

umm... I think you can tighten the e-brake cable at the calliper, not sure though.

[Dattebayo]

you tighten the ebrake inside the passenger compartment right at the ebrake handle. I think you just need a wrench or screwdriver to tighten it up.

[IlIkEmYz]

i have the same problem.and i also tighten the e brake at the ebrake handle. but it still rolls

i think it has to do with the abuse of using the ebrake to drift my car.

anyhow i just put my car in gear when i park. that solve the problem.

[navysnail]

there is a hole in the e-brake that you can tighten with a 10mm wrench.

and for god sakes put the transmission in gear everytime, i know a guy who had his mustang wraped around a tree because he didnt put his transmission in gear

[Dattebayo]

I checked the FSM, and it says the adjustment is under the front of the ebrake handle and you need a socket wrench and 2" or 3" extension to tighten it. Pull the ebake up about 4 or 5 notches and tighten the bolt a little. Make sure the ebrake is fully released and not dragging on the rear brakes when the handle is all the way down. Proper setting for full hold when parked is at 6-8 clicks.

[annunziato39]

i did adjust the tension bolt, unfortunatley it did nothing other than limit how high the ebrake handle will go up. It still rolls SO, it looks like i'm going to try the brake lines and calipers.

[Dattebayo]

hold on, you might not need new calipers yet...I'd say get a professional opinion on this before replacing things willy-nilly. Or try posting on the nissan online mechanic section of NICO. I bet the moderator NISTECH can help you.

[Silvia2b]

I had the same problem, with my stock calipers in the rear after like 30k on one set of pads, I had Nissan evaluate and adjust it. This did nothing; in fact they actually managed to lock one of the calipers on so it was engaged while driving. I had to take it back, replace that rotor on the one side since it got so hot and warped. Then the said it was the cable was broken. I visually inspected the cable and there was nothing wrong with the cable. After much frustration they came to the conclusion that the calipers need to be rebuilt, or replaced because the screw mechanism inside the caliper that ratchets when you pull the handle had failed. I replaced them with Bendex made calipers, everything works just fine now. (2) new rotors, and (2) new calipers w/ pads

[annunziato39]

where did you get the work done and how much did it cost you?

[drifter_for_life06]

im nto exactly sure about on a 240 but my friends 1990 Stanzas e-brake was really shot, we could do 40mph and pull it and it wouldnt lock up the least bit. His step-dad is a racecar driver and showed him that there is some screw you can tighten? w/e it was it worked cuz now he can slide around with no problem.

[Silvia2b]

I had taken it my car to the Beaverton Nissan dealership (in Oregon State), after their failure to remedy the problem, I took on the job myself to replace the components that were damaged by the dealer as well as the rest of the hardware at the same time. I think I paid for bendix calipers like $374, including $130 core charge. Now the calipers and brake rotors, and e-brake work just as designed. Now I want to replace them with some 300ZX stoppers

[annunziato39]

i want to thank 2bn-s13 for telling me to look before jumping to conclusions. It ended up being a streached e-brake cable, but need to be tightened from the outside, not the 10mm nut under the e-brake bar. Once again thanks for everyones help and advise.