Dynoed my turbo KA: 310 rwhp and 316 ft/lbs of torque

[klattr1]

Im finally getting halfway decent air fuel ratios but I boosted to 17 lbs and made 310 rwhp and 316 ft/lbs of torque on 93 octane. My air fuel ratios jumped around but I'm happy to be running rich whereas I was lean before. I'll get my dyno sheet scanned tomorrow but here's the air fuel curve in a nutshell:11:1 @ 3000 rpm11.7:1 @ 3500 rpm12.4:1 @ 4000 rpm11.1:1 @ 5000 rpm10.8:1 @ 6000 rpmand the air fuel curve averages out at about 10.9:1 all the way up to 6500 rpm after that.So I made peak power at 6000 rpm but I'm really rich. Some people would say "Nay" but I say "Yay" since I was lean before. I would make prolly 50 rwhp more if I were to get a SAFC and lean it out some right there but I am very happy where I am at now. Ive come a long way!Im going to the drag strip this weekend to test it out with some ET streets hopefully.Check my homepage for my setup.

[1998cc]

Nice. Get that car into the 12's.

[klattr1]

Its capable but its gonna be all in my 60 ft.

[Checkered-Member]

we have a specify thread just for that (sticky in the KAT forum...)

[klattr1]

if i wanted to be in there, I would have stuck it in there.

[nismofan14]

nice job. You are running the JWT ecu, correct? I am slowing putting my project together and still debating on the fuel management. Closest dyno to me is 1.5 hrs away so the jwt is outweighing the emanage. Just wondering if its working well for you now. I know you had a post about it in ka-t.or but I can't get into the forums.

[klattr1]

I wouldnt cycle between the JWT ecu and the E-Manage. I would cycle between a standalone or the JWT ecu. I hear ya on the dyno time thing but even with a pre-programmed JWT ecu, dyno time is critical. Having the correct base timing set(20 degrees at 700 rpms with TPS unplugged to lock in place) is important and having a proper working fuel pressure regulator is important(43.5 psi at idle with vacuum hose disconnected off of fpr).Even if you were to use the E-Manage, dyno time would be important.http://www.dynojet.com/maps/autodynos/pa.htmIt is working well for me now. I have had a 2 chips sent to me for getting rid of lean spots but 90% of the people that have JWT ecu's tend to run rich. They generally tune conservatively but its better off being safe. Especially if you drive your car hard every day.A JWT ecu costs either between $575 or $725 depending if you get the subtractor circuit(72lb injector program). You'll need a cobra mafs with that $200.You can get a full standalone(SDSefi.com) for like a lil over $1100. You need the MSD ignition box with it. And you also get sample maps to get you started and going.It just really depends on how much hp you plan on running and if you have good friends or shops that could install the standalone.It depends on how much knowledge of tuning you have also. Clark Steppler is the lab rat for Jim Wolf and is great at tuning for conservative programs for street cars or for advanced programs for race cars. He knows what he's doing and can fix any problems you have if you have any by simulating air flow and injector pulse width and volumetric efficiency.

[andrave]

hey lattr I got some questions for you based on what you just said. I have the oppurtunity to buy a jwt ecu that is tuned for 370's and a turbo (sr20tune).So I called JWT just 2 days ago.I have 850cc injectors. They told me it would be a minimum of 3 hours dyno work at 100 dollars per, and a 100 dollar chip to get the program straight. No biggie, but they are in california. So I asked him about alternatives. He told me about their 72 lb injector program, and told me that it would be 100 dollars to burn a chip for 72 pound injectors with a Z32 mafs (cheaper than cobra and handles lots of power).He said the only option which increases the price of the chip is the cobra mafs option, because it requires additional circuits.

So, could you tell me what you mean when you said "A JWT ecu costs either between $575 or $725 depending if you get the subtractor circuit(72lb injector program)."

Because that is probably the set up I'm going with, only with a Z32 mafs. 72 (or 75) lb delphi injectors, 4.6 liter mustang top feed rail, and a tuned JWT ecu.

I'm just trying to get everything straight. Keep in mind this is what Ben from JWT told me on the phone less than 72 hours ago.

Thanks.BTW gold with blacked out Z32 rims, that is way pimp... makes me want to go in for a champagne respray...

[klattr1]

im sorry if my post was confusing.What i meant to say was that a JWT ecu can cost as little as $575 if you want to be programmed for 370cc injectors or 50lb injectors. But if you want to be programmed for 72lb injectors, it cost $575 plus $125 extra for the subtractor circuit so it would be more like $700. If i were you, I would buy the 370cc injector programmed ecu and send it off to JWT and have it programmed for 72lb injectors. It would cost $100 for a retune and an extra $125 for the extra subtractor circuit. But if you are gonna run a Z32 mafs, make sure and get the right one cuz people will sell you the wrong ones. Verify by part numbers before you buy one. Ive heard of too many people buying the wrong one and then wondering why they are having problems with their cars.It would not be worth it to me to have a custom program made for your 850cc injectors cuz of all the costs. You would be better off on buying a standalone after all the money you'll spend to have a custom program made.Cobra mafs can be had for $199 off of ka24de.comka24de.comWhats SRTune all about?Jim Wolf has 4 bar programs too but driveability could be affected. Idle and such. Im not sure.

[klattr1]

BTW gold with blacked out Z32 rims, that is way pimp... makes me want to go in for a champagne respray...

I like the rims. I just didnt like silver rims on a gold car. It was clashing to me. Thanks for the compliments!

[nismofan14]

I think I will go with JWT. I could wire up a standalone but the idea of plugging in the JWT and being able to drive to the dyno sounds alot better. I just dont want to have to tune a standalone then drive down there and have something unexpected happen. Plus the fact that I only get weekends to do all this since I work full-time and attend college full-time.

As for the JWT, I have a z32 maf , aeromotive fpr(free from a friend) and a nismo fpr(the one I will use), msd ignition, and a spare ecu from a 96 that was originally going to be sent to them for the computerized nitrous program but I didn't feel like spending $1000+ for it to be a custom program because i am running direct port.

I also have nissan motorsports cams and the JWT cam gears that i got as a early b-day present. So i figure that it would be a lot easier to have them make the program for what I have than for me to do it with standalone.

[Nathan]

Hey Nismofan, if you want to know what fittings you need to hook up that FPR, lemme know, it's a bit of a pain in the ***

[nismofan14]

Hey Nismofan, if you want to know what fittings you need to hook up that FPR, lemme know, it's a bit of a pain in the ***

Which one? aeromotive or nismo?

[andrave]

ben didn't mention any extra charges for 72 pound injectors when I talked to him, why do they need an additional circuit? might be better off for me to call them to ask that question, but I gotta wait on hold so long ( on long distance call ) that its better if I can find answers here.

[nismofan14]

sorry, stupid question. I haven't taken the aeromotive fpr out of the box. But I do know that raretrick.com sell the adapters for the stock fuel rail. Not sure what adapters are needed but I will check it out for you. I think Klattr1 uses one.

[Projex240]

Im happy as hell for ya man. Klattr lives here in town so we see easch other pretty often. I wont go into what all this guys had to endure with his car, ill just say its alot.By the way...Since i couldnt be AT the dyno...my buddies and my wife were there, so had her call me so i could at leat nlisten to the runs, and talk to ryan between and after them. The turb hes using ha s great efficeincy island, but its for higher boost. Hes running on 16.5 or 17 i think.Im telling ya i was impressed.Also, to the critics who may be lurking out there...these numbers were put down with NO tuning at all. with a stcok heavy flywheel, and no pullies and a stock ignition. If klatter decides to upgrade these...he would see some VERY impressive gains. I want to go out on a limb to say as much as a 50hp gain from just those mods I listed. He was gaining about 12 hp per lb, when he was turning it up. Also, Like he said..the afc is going to make a lot of improvement in both the hp and tq department.If you need anything while in town..you know who to cal.

Later,

Josh

[Nathan]

Ahhh, I didn't see you had the nismo too (it's what I would use as well) the Aeromotive is just a royal pain in the ***, especially with a top feed rail. Klattr, congrats on the run, it looks good and as you said, better a little rich than lean! I look forward to seeing what I do since my setup is similar

[SingleCamSam]

Seems kind of low for 17psi. Probably your fuel curve. Usually that amount of boost yields about 400whp from a KA-T. Nice job either way!

[klattr1]

here's the graph:

[andrave]

SO MUCH TORQUE THE CHASSIS TWISTED OFF THE LINElol damn that thing is a torque beast too. nice numbers as is, seems low for 17 psi but I don't think anyone would say that 310 HP is low in general.

[goldenchild]

klattr1 where are u at in nc or sc, the tracks are still open?????

[klattr1]

I go to school in SC and live at the border of SC/NC but work every weekend in NC. All I know of is 2 tracks open this time of the year and the drag event is going to be in Jackson, SC (Down in Red Neck Country). It supposed to be a high of 61 degrees on Saturday but it will be well worth it!

[node]

klattr1

Sorry to get off topic but, what kind of paint its that on your valve cover and pipe? Is it powder coat? Where can I get some?

Thanks

[erollinc]

what all are you running as far as the engine goes? stock internals? any headwork? 17 psi is alot on stock so thats why i ask,..... great slips there

[andrave]

his webpage is listed in his signature and shows that he has... like every mod you could do, including internals and headwork.

[BomexS13]

klattr1, do you mind if you can post a list of your mods(engine/turbo) please?

[klattr1]

-Fmax manifold, intercooler and piping and downpipe transitioned to 3" with flare-Apexi N1 catback(no catalytic converter, flex pipe inline)-Jim Wolf cams, Ross pistons(.020" oversize & 8.5:1 cr), Crower rods, stock headgasket, 5 angle valve job-Turbonetics t3/t04e 60 trim compressor, .63 ar turbine w/ stage 5 wheel-HKS standard wastegate, Greddy type S bov-Jim Wolf ecu programmed for 72 lb injectors, 93 mustang cobra mafs-Jim Wolf top feed fuel rail(3 bar fuel pressure)-Manifold, downpipe ceramic coated-ATP inconel turbine heatshield(3000 degrees resistant)-Clutchmaster's stage 4 clutch and stock flywheel-Greddy Profec B version 1 boost controller

[klattr1]

klattr1

Sorry to get off topic but, what kind of paint its that on your valve cover and pipe? Is it powder coat? Where can I get some?

Thanks

yeah its powder coating. Its just a textured black that kinda reminds me of the texture on Vtec valve covers. Its really durable too. The place that did it uses the same black texture coating on all of their weight equipment they manufacture.

[WDRacing]

Sweet, I love to see more KAT's coming into play. I can't wait to see what she does with the SAFC. I noticed a huge difference on my Skyline between 10.2 and 12.7 A/F's. You should see a pretty good gain. Another good thing about running rich though, it helps out incase you get a bad tank of gas. I had my knock meter save me a few times when I was running a leaner mix.

Get rid of that heavy clutch fan while your improving things.

WD

[klattr1]

I think I'm planning on keeping the mechanical fan setup but in the summer time I plan on putting the shroud back on. The only reason I don't have it on right now is that I had to cut my fan shroud up while routing the Fmax intercooler piping. So I plan on getting a fan shroud from a junkyard and cutting it up the right way to fit the piping.I hear of people running into problems of overheating even with dual electric fans so I'm afraid to buy some nice FAL fans because SC gets over 100 degrees during the summer.I know it looks alot nicer without the fan shroud and the mechanical fan but I'm more worried about function over form.People, let me know if you live in high heat summer temps and run fine with electric fans that eliminate stock fan shroud and mechanical fan.The first thing I'm buying before summer is a water temp gauge to monitor my changes to the cooling system.