Dyno Results johnwhitmire64 1995 Q45t RMT

[elwesso]

There's definitely a lot of duty cycle left at WOT on the Q injectors. I'm a little surprised by this but if a rising rate fuel pressure regulator was used that would be a lot more feasible.....

[Q-ZILLA]

Through reading, the 300zx TT uses the 370cc injectors and the article said they were good for making over 700whp in the 300zx, with the stock fuel pump. I do believe that's the same as the Q, along with the Bosch in my fuel tank.

[IThaJ0kaI]

A VG wont make 700hp on stock injectors, they peak out just under 400hp.

What size turbo are you running on this thing? Those numbers look awesome.

[Q-ZILLA]

Just going by what the article said. 300's have two sizes of injectors, supposedly the 370's are capable of it... Just sayin'. I've got a Garrett 4094 ball bearing.

ELWESSO; My understanding is that the stock FPR is a rising rate FPR. I was also looking at the Nismo ($175) adjustable, but want to hear what the tuner has to say. There will be more phone calls before I get up to Sarasota for tuning. He's trying to squeeze me in next week sometime.

One last comment; you know, most of this IS stock, I've read quite a bit and I DO listen to people... BUT, unless I run into a problem that NEEDS to be addressed, I leave it alone. The KISS Theory...

[IThaJ0kaI]

Are you having Martin at RSenthalpy tune it?

[Q-ZILLA]

No; Derrick @ Advanced Race Technology. Was highly recommended by many people at dyno day at Harbor Nissan in Port Charlotte, he used to work there. Apparently he still tunes their headaches from what I understand.

[WDRacing]

Through reading, the 300zx TT uses the 370cc injectors and the article said they were good for making over 700whp in the 300zx, with the stock fuel pump. I do believe that's the same as the Q, along with the Bosch in my fuel tank.

That's just not true. Don't believe everything you read. Check out this injector HP calculator On the second calculator, use 700 as the hp number, change the number of cylinders to 6, change the BSFC to .60 or .65 and you'll see that it shows that you'll require 95 lb or 995cc injectors.

You can also use 450hp as the output goal, 8 for the number of injectors, use .60 as the bsfc and crank the duty cycle to 95% and you'll see your magic number, or close to it, 373cc.

Adding methanol changes all of those calculations btw.

ELWESSO; My understanding is that the stock FPR is a rising rate FPR. I was also looking at the Nismo ($175) adjustable, but want to hear what the tuner has to say. There will be more phone calls before I get up to Sarasota for tuning. He's trying to squeeze me in next week sometime.

There are 2 types of rising rate fpr, the factory fpr's increase fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio. The other type increases fuel pressure at various ratio's that can be adjusted by the user. The range from 2:1 all the way to 12:1, meaning for every 1 lb of boost they increase the fuel pressure 12 psi, there by adding extra fuel during boost conditions. You have the first type.

After some thinking over the last few days, it's not impossible for the factory 370's to be good for quite of boost. I wouldn't run 14 psi, but I bet they are good for 8-10. The duty cycle at for anything higher will be cause premature failure. You want to be around 80% duty cycle. If you have it tuned, I don't see why the factory injectors wouldn't be fine. The SR20 uses 370's, can run at 10 psi all day and it's a 2.0 4 banger, you're a 4.4 liter 8. So the numbers and flow are very similar. You also have a much more efficient turbo then the SR20 does, so the IAT's will be cooler, helping to keep the knock down. Plus you have methanol, which is the key to real power imho. With the meth injection you can add another 8 psi or so over what the fuel injectors are good for, assuming you have the meth accounted for in your tune. You just don't want your injectors running at max duty cycle. If one fails you can kiss your motor good bye.

Rock on buddy

[Q-ZILLA]

Okay, so I got off my lazy a** and hooked up the laptop. Here's the result from EZTalk1.35. I let out of it around 5500rpm... Too many cops out today, near the end of the month. I sorted the spreadsheet highest rpm to lowest, took the top 60 lines for you to scratch your head over. Note that the dyno runs the other day had me peaking between 4800-5100rpm or something like that. I only had one line where the duty cycle is over 80%.

So, unless I'm going to go into the 90% range with tuning, I'm not seeing the wisdom of buying $700 worth of new injectors... God, I love my car!

[WDRacing]

I wouldn't change a thing, other then the tune of course. If a tuner is able to tweak everything on a dyno and verify your numbers...you're friggin golden dude.

[Q-ZILLA]

Thanks!

[WDRacing]

Something I else I didn't mention earlier, if you do in fact need to reduce your duty cycle a bit or simply want to add a few more lbs of boost without replacing your injectors. You could always get an adjustable FPR and crank the base fuel pressure up a bit. This will increase the over all flow throughout the entire rpm band, and of course require a retune. Just food for thought.

[Q-ZILLA]

Yes, I figured that out from reading, but I'm sticking to the KISS theory. Unless I need to, probably not going to happen. Wish I'd realized it when I bought the new FPR and damper last year... Oh well, we'll see...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, that's sort of what a lot of us are trying to tell you. By the time you "NEED" it, it will be too late and you'll end up having to replace your entire engine. Sort of portraying to the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" side of things.

What is your redline? The higher the RPM, generally the higher the injector dutycycle. Keep that meth spraying and you should be ok

[Q-ZILLA]

My redline is 7200rpm. Tuner has said injectors will work just fine. I will however put in a Nismo adjustable FPR to increase pressure and decrease duty cycle.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Good call!

[ph34r]

Is it on a stand alone? I am curious because I am tuning mine up here in Tampa on a RS-Enthalpy daughter board.

[Q-ZILLA]

The initial tune, what I'm running now is the NICO ECU; I'm almost positive it has a daughter board. After a couple of additional parts, I will be taking it to Derrick @ ART in Sarasota to fine tune it. Are you tuning a G50?

[Q-ZILLA]

Hey guys... As some of you may have noticed; My Baby has had a name change. Considering the hp/torque specs of Godzilla, I couldn't resist... Q-ZILLA is born. After we tweak this NICO tune, I will, of course post the new numbers. I'm also considering... Wanting... Gotta have... LAUNCH CONTROL! I'll keep you informed. What do you all think of the name Q-ZILLA? Already ordered the plate.

[WDRacing]

Is your Q a manual conversion?

[Q-ZILLA]

No, but when this transmission takes a dump, I will consider the five speed as Wes has done.

[WDRacing]

You mentioned launch control, it's just something usually related to a manual trans.

[Q-ZILLA]

They have it for automatic also.

[yodawill2000]

TransBrake ?
Basically engages reverse and first at the same time.
push a button and ZOOM.
From Wiki..

In drag racing, a transbrake is a mechanism that selectively places the transmission in first and reverse gears simultaneously, effectively holding the race car stationary as if the foot brake was applied. The transbrake is activated by the driver by applying electrical current to a solenoid at the transmission. With the transbrake engaged (transmission locked), the engine throttle can be increased to any position (opening) in preparation for launch without the race driver worrying about the car creeping forward. Milliseconds before the green light illuminates on the Tree the transbrake is released (by the driver releasing an electrical switch or by a delay box "timing out" originally triggered by the driver releasing an electrical switch) and the car launches forward, its engine already in the higher power band and the transmission already in low gear.

[WDRacing]

I'm pretty sure the launch control for automatics can only be used with a dual clutch trans, like the GTR. I don't see how a computer can do anything for the Q. You could get a new stall convertor maybe or a line lock for the brake or a trans brake, but I think those are your only options.

[Q-ZILLA]

Yeah, I think you may be right about the transbrake... I'm looking into it, want to try to have uniform launches. That's where I usually lose a race... Getting off the line. My L10 transmission has a 3800 stall in it already, but I'm researching launch options, as usual with this car, not many options out there.

[Q-ZILLA]

Got a photo of how my plate will look...

[LEMHEAD16]

DAMN! makes me want to get off my a** and fix the misfire in my Q and throw a turbo on while I'm at it!

These cars are fun with 300 HP I can't imagine nearly 500!

Good job man, very good job.

[LEMHEAD16]

Where did you send your injectors?

[Q-ZILLA]

FuelInjectorConnection.com 770-888-1662 Worth every penny, BUT, be careful of their o-rings, mine were the wrong ones. I'd never replaced injectors before, didn't understand when they said they "pop" in. I crammed the injectors in and had to redo them all with OEM o-rings, cheap, so if you don't hear a "pop" putting them in, you probably got the wrong ones. Cost $20 a piece IIRC. Fast turnaround.

[Q-ZILLA]

Now here's one for you guys... As I'm waiting for my transmission solenoids, I'm taking the time to fix a couple issues. 1. A water leak on the back of my head that cools the turbo... done, what a pleasure that was...
2. I'm installing that Nismo adjustable FPR. Took out the damper, per the tuner, installed 180 psi fuel lines, put it all back together; no plenum on top yet and the vacuum line on the FPR is not connected. Turned the key on and my fuel pressure gauge says 0...


I would have thought the rails would have pressurized without actually starting the car... What am I missing in this equation?