dumping too much fuel, car floods out.

[ceniack]

just got my turbo stuff installed finally, my set-up is

revhard mani garrett t3/to4e .57trim .63a/r 480cc injectors custom rom tune for the larger injectors (by myself and david deatsch of deatschwerks) walbro 255

i know i am getting spark and fuel (way to much fuel for some reason), checked plugs and they were soaked.

i have tried reseating the injectors in the rail, as well as reseating the rail and checking for leaks at the lower o-rings, i have spark (no leaky injectors).

i have replace the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.

i have had it start up a couple times, but the idle would be erratic and it would die unless i kept the rpms up.

if i unplug the injectors, the car will start up, burn the fuel in the cylinders and die, and then i can start it up with the injectors plugged back in most of the time, and if i keep the rmps up i can keep it running untill i let off the gas. and it doesn't hesitate or bog when i rev it up.

i am almost 100% sure it isn't the tune as we had kept the stock maf and tuned for the 480cc injectors and it ran fine before the turbo was installed. (doing small changes, tuning for z32 maf later)

i unplugged the maf, and it ran like poo, black smoke everywhere, didnt' make it start any easier.

i figured out how to get it started and if i keep the idle up it doesn't die, have to have the throttle completely open to get it to start however, and have even had it idleing rock steady at 700 rpms on it's own, however it doesn't last long before it dies. and i have to keep the trottle open to start it

almost acting as if i have a vaccum leak, but when i drive it it doesn't hesitate or bog unless i come to a stop and don't keep on the throttle a little, i've checked all my vacume connections and they seem to be fine.

could it be my idle air control?

or maybe my coolant temp sensor?

[deviousKA]

Trim down your K number untill it idles, depending on your fuel map setup (whether or not your have closed loop enabled) shoot for about 15:1 idle.

Make note of how much you trimmed back your K and then adjust all of your TP scales and the like once again.

[deviousKA]

And also, if you did any tinkering with the injector latency values in the rom this could also be a problem, keep the oem setting. There is no need to mess with the null time or latency when going from a 270 saturated up to about 500cc saturated.

[ceniack]

pretty sure the tune is correct, i ran the larger injectors with my stock maf for a couple days before i installed the turbo, and the problem is only at start-up and when i let the idle drop. but i will talk to dave and see what all exactly he messed with with the tuning.

thanks for the help

[deviousKA]

Adjusting for a z32 maf is a large change, you are chopping roughly half of global fuel settings in reference to maf voltage. It takes a couple burns to get it right on each setup.

Its common, id bet that it is part of the problem.

[1WheelWonder]

I battled a similar problem for a while after installing my injectors. The lower o-ring kept funking up on me. I am sure i'm telling you nothing you don't already know seeing that you work for Deatschwerks, but don't tighten the injector caps down any more than hand tight and lube them injectors and injector buckets up like they were getting ready for a good *** bumping.

[ceniack]

Adjusting for a z32 maf is a large change, you are chopping roughly half of global fuel settings in reference to maf voltage. It takes a couple burns to get it right on each setup.

Its common, id bet that it is part of the problem.

we havn't tuned for the z32 maf yet still on the stock maf

[deviousKA]

Oh, i see

Check all the connections and run the codes on the ecu, if the coolant temp sensor connection or actual sensor unit are bad it will pick it up, code 13 if I recall.

Probably not the problem though, the code check may enlighten.

[ceniack]

well i changed the coolant temp sensor, and used the set screw on my TB to get it to idle at about 700-1000rpms, it will idle all day long when i first start it, and some times if i ease it to a stop (hard to explain, but just not just disengage the clutch but keep it in gear till 1000rpms and then drop the clutch it will come to a stable idle.

talking to a few local people some think since i am running open downpipe (it is custom so only about a foot to a foot and a half of piping) and that it could be causing my car to die because of a lack of back pressue. *shrug* regardless i need to have my exhaust maited up to it which i am going to do tomorrow.

[DammitBobby]

What is your vacuum reading at idle? It should be around 20, if it is 15 or lower then you have a vacuum leak which will cause it to run rich at idle.

[ceniack]

got it figured out, it was a couple of problems,

the flooding at start-up was a bad coolant temp sensor.

the stalling when i come to an abrupt stock is my bov venting to the atmosphere (had to solve the first problem to discover this problem)

going to have that tuned out this week hopefully, one small change at a time.