DTC Codes

[datechboss101]

Had the idiot light for Forward Collision system flashing while driving last night from work. Stopped once and restarted the POS, and it was still flashing. Turned off T/C and it was solid as it is supposed to, but when I re-engaged T/C, it continued to flash.

This morning I connected my OBD2 reader and got the following codes:
B24A1 -- VBattDiag
U1000 -- CAN Comm Circuit
C1B00 -- Camera Unit Malf

I did, however, clear all these codes twice, and none of them came back. I thought this might be related to the battery causing electrical issues, but not sure. If this is a battery issue, what is the warranty period on the OEM replacement battery? If its not a battery issue, what do I need to do for further diag (not willing to pay rape prices at the greedy Nissan stealerships in the Orlando area).

[mdmellott]

This is why I hate CAN bus systems in modern vehicles. All of these seemingly unrelated symptoms are interconnected by a network of components that share a common ground and data messaging between some of the components and the the vehicles various control modules. Finding a loose or corroded component harness connection or battery terminal connection is my only hope to find the root cause. Otherwise, it takes more complex diagnostic tools from dealerships with vehicle specific software programs to pinpoint the problem. If it is your battery, a loose or corroded terminal connection could be the cause. If it is just a dying battery with low voltage, the warranty will be no more than 3yrs.

[datechboss101]

This is why I hate CAN bus systems in modern vehicles. All of these seemingly unrelated symptoms are interconnected by a network of components that share a common ground and data messaging between some of the components and the the vehicles various control modules. Finding a loose or corroded component harness connection or battery terminal connection is my only hope to find the root cause. Otherwise, it takes more complex diagnostic tools from dealerships with vehicle specific software programs to pinpoint the problem. If it is your battery, a loose or corroded terminal connection could be the cause. If it is just a dying battery with low voltage, the warranty will be no more than 3yrs.

I'll take a look at the grounds during lunch today and rerun the scan. I won't be able to check the battery condition till I get off work.

[datechboss101]

Called the local wallet-draining place. $400 OTD for a new OEM battery. Since mine has been a lil over 2 years (2 years 3 days to be exact), they said I need to pay the 25% prorate fee which is $160 OTD. However, I did check the cables during lunch and all seem to be fine and fit good.

[mdmellott]

If you check your battery with a volt meter (engine off) and it measures 12+ volts and while the engine is running it measures 14+ volts, then your battery is fine. To check for a circuit ground fault, place the negative probe of the volt meter on the negative battery terminal and the positive probe onto any grounded metal body part or on the engine. A voltage measurement of .1V (10mV) or less is normal. 30mV would not be unusual but anything higher at any grounded position probed on the body or engine is a positive indications of a bad grounding circuit somewhere on the vehicle.

[datechboss101]

If you check your battery with a volt meter (engine off) and it measures 12+ volts and while the engine is running it measures 14+ volts, then your battery is fine. To check for a circuit ground fault, place the negative probe of the volt meter on the negative battery terminal and the positive probe onto any grounded metal body part or on the engine. A voltage measurement of .1V (10mV) or less is normal. 30mV would not be unusual but anything higher at any grounded position probed on the body or engine is a positive indications of a bad grounding circuit somewhere on the vehicle.

I will give it a try in the morning (I am working a long shift today). Just to summarize, anything below 0.3V when grounded to the vehicle is "okay" or "good" which indicates no ground fault, and anything above indicates there's a ground fault. I did remember seeing on an OBD2 scanner that the battery reading was reading between 12V to 13V while the engine was running. Going to check it as well. I do remember it failing multiple times at the end of November when it threw error codes for loss of driver assistance features.

[datechboss101]

Nissan said while running the battery was reading 12.3V. But it didn't fail any tests that they did.

[mdmellott]

Nissan said while running the battery was reading 12.3V. But it didn't fail any tests that they did.

Someone needs to test that Nissan tech. 12.3V could be expected from the battery when the car is not running but that is an absolute failed voltage reading while the engine is running. The battery may be fine but the alternator is probably shot. Since the battery voltage is fairly normal (12.6V would be perfect while the engine is not running), the voltage regulator in the alternator seems like it is keeping the battery charged but the output voltage of the alternator should be around 14V while running. That is the voltage you should see at the battery with the motor running.

[datechboss101]

I let it sit for a good amount of time today. Here is few data points from my battery tester:
1) Crank voltage is 10.18v.
2) Measured CCA is 290 CCA
3) Battery Volt: 12.06v
4) Internal Resistance: 10.32

Is the 12.06v acceptable when doing a "surface" charge by turning on headlights for like 10 seconds? Earlier in the morning it was 12.18v.

[mdmellott]

None of that looks good. What is the battery voltage while the car is running? 10.18V ?

[datechboss101]

With running, it was around 13v. I went ahead to Walmart and Replaced the battery. I stopped at Autozone before and they said the battery was at 60% and wasn't able to test the charging system. New battery has a CCA rating of 680 and is a AGM battery. I am going to check once again tomorrow and see what its showing. Will provide better data points than what I have done so far.

The battery is an Everstart Platinum H5 680 CCA from Walmart.

[datechboss101]

Got a multimeter and tested the battery. 14.5V under load, 14.6V without accessory load. Surface charge was 13.11V and cold is 12.7V. Not sure why it was giving low voltage before the battery replacement.

[VStar650CL]

I know I'm late to this party, but there's one thing and one thing only which causes a flashing FCW. That's a blocked or blinded Lane Camera. The condition won't cause any codes, just a blinky FCW. Everything else that can go wrong causes a solid FCW. The gen2 Rogue cams are known for overheated power supplies, so if the windshield is clear and it's still doing it, chances are the cam is going south.

[datechboss101]

I know I'm late to this party, but there's one thing and one thing only which causes a flashing FCW. That's a blocked or blinded Lane Camera. The condition won't cause any codes, just a blinky FCW. Everything else that can go wrong causes a solid FCW. The gen2 Rogue cams are known for overheated power supplies, so if the windshield is clear and it's still doing it, chances are the cam is going south.

Would it flash even for Low Voltage? The system still works (tried it few times) and the light hasn't come back on. How would I go about checking the power supply for the Lane camera?

[VStar650CL]

No, low voltage problems will cause a solid lamp (albeit maybe temporary). Blockage or blinding of the cam is the ONLY thing which causes flashing. The cam power supply is internal, the problems come from overheating and not low voltage. The simplest diagnosis is to drop the cover off the cam when it misbehaves and feel how warm it is. "Just warm" is okay, but if it's knuckle-burning hot then the supply is failing.

[datechboss101]

No, low voltage problems will cause a solid lamp (albeit maybe temporary). Blockage or blinding of the cam is the ONLY thing which causes flashing. The cam power supply is internal, the problems come from overheating and not low voltage. The simplest diagnosis is to drop the cover off the cam when it misbehaves and feel how warm it is. "Just warm" is okay, but if it's knuckle-burning hot then the supply is failing.

Talked with my SA at Honda who used to work at Nissan in Tampa for ages. He stated he has the parts and will provide them to me. He has the vin to verify which ones will fit, as he stated he saw a ton of the 2nd gen refreshed rogues with this exact issue. Showed him the DTC codes as well.

[VStar650CL]

Be aware that it isn't plug-and-play. New Lane Cams need to be both configured and aimed. Used ones can be plug-and-play if the configuration is right, aim isn't usually an issue since the location of the bracket is pretty tightly-controlled.

[datechboss101]

Be aware that it isn't plug-and-play. New Lane Cams need to be both configured and aimed. Used ones can be plug-and-play if the configuration is right, aim isn't usually an issue since the location of the bracket is pretty tightly-controlled.

I know I would have to take the s*** box to Nissan for calibration, but can the parts be installed without going to Nissan and paying their outrageous rape prices?

If its doable as a DIY, what’s the procedure on installing it without calibration?

[VStar650CL]

Don't rant, I'll drop this thread.

The cam is super easy to swap out, it just snaps into place. However, the configuration needs to be saved before removing it, then loaded into the new cam before aiming. So swapping it yourself will actually complicate matters, not help.

[datechboss101]

Don't rant, I'll drop this thread.

The cam is super easy to swap out, it just snaps into place. However, the configuration needs to be saved before removing it, then loaded into the new cam before aiming. So swapping it yourself will actually complicate matters, not help.

I wasn't ranting sir. I was just pointing out that I wanted to save money without getting ripped off, by going the DIY route, but only needing the dealership to calibrate it.

Since you mentioned that the configuration needs to be saved prior to swapping out the current unit, how would I save the configuration? I am willing to buy the tools needed.

[VStar650CL]

You'll need something which can read and write Nissan device configurations. The only reasonable tool I know about which might do it is the PC-based AutoEnginuity. Obviously we use Consult3+ at the shop, but that's a $10K system.

[datechboss101]

Bumping this thread up.

Flashing FCW light came back on Saturday while driving on the toll road (as the Rogue has became my daily while the MDX is down), with the family. It was raining though, but this vehicle never gave issue while straight up down pouring in the prior years. Stopped by the dealership (everyone here knows. the service and sales department of this dealer is a rip off), but when I asked for parts, they tried to upsell me on a whole a$5 ceiling panel.

I did notice there is a discrepency for part numbers.


On parts.nissanusa.com I see its listed as 284G3-6FL2A. On NissanPartsDeal.com (which looks similar to Acurapartswarehouse.com) it shows the part number as 284G3-7FW0B. Not sure which is the correct part number here.

[VStar650CL]

It might be a supersession, but plug your VIN into NissanPartsDeal. That will give you the original build part and show any super for it. Never shop for electrical crap by MMY, that's a fool's errand. Use the part number linked to the VIN, and if there's still any confusion, call the dealer Parts Dept with the VIN. If there's a service file for the part or a multiple supersession chain, they can steer you to the current number.

[datechboss101]

Got another code last night while driving from work: C1A16.

I saw nothing blocking it and we rewashed the vehicle this morning. We did notice the camera was heating up while parked in the garage.

[VStar650CL]

C1A16 is a Radar blockage, it's unrelated to the Lane Cam and is self-clearing (although the code will remain in the system as "past"). It usually occurs in very light or very heavy rain conditions, from bug splats or debris, or from getting water behind the emblem while washing.

[Boulder.rogue]

Sorry if i have to post my trouble code here but I'm currently getting a code DTC B2E01-96 CRNT Internal battery, I have charged the battery overnight but still cannot be erased by my OBD reader. Does it mean that I need a new battery for 2021 Nissan Rogue?

[VStar650CL]

That code isn't for your main battery, it's for the backup battery in the TCU (telematics unit). Chances are there's nothing wrong with it and the TCU simply needs to be reset. Unfortunately that's a dealer-only operation, but the code doesn't usually affect anything operationally except the car transmitting to the network. So if you don't use telematics functions very much, you may just want to leave it alone. There's a bulletin about clearing it:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/ ... 6-0001.pdf