Dry Sumped KA?

[slpr240]

any of you guys ever heard/see of a dry sumped 240?

[deviousKA]

Yeah, but they use truck blocks.

The 240sx japan block's girdle system prohibits a proper slim drysump pan, and there are not any production units available for this block.

But you can get an A.R.E pan for a ka truck block or l/z series, or make your own of course.

[slpr240]

is there any way you could give me any links or pics or something

[deviousKA]

http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

[KATwo40]

I have a truck motor in my 240. Came out of a '90 truck. I didn't think there was a difference.

[deviousKA]

There are quite a few differences actually.

You must be using the trucks flywheel, starter motor, and a modified 240sx bell housing (or the truck transmission).

The truck block is better.

[hazw8st]

Nice.....dry sump motors make more horsepower....and never starve for oil.

[projectka-t]

There are quite a few differences actually.

You must be using the trucks flywheel, starter motor, and a modified 240sx bell housing (or the truck transmission).

The truck block is better.

Is the bolt pattern on the oil pan different ? from the car KA and the truck KA

[deviousKA]

Ka24e, no, but the depth of the main girdle prohibits the use of a low profile truck pan.

[KATwo40]

There are quite a few differences actually.

You must be using the trucks flywheel, starter motor, and a modified 240sx bell housing (or the truck transmission).

The truck block is better.

None of that.

[deviousKA]

So then, your either not using an actual truck block or you have offset problems with a few things

Edit: or that is a trick answer, and you are using a few l/z components.

[KATwo40]

All I know is that the motor that's in my car was said to be from a 1990 truck. This was according to the tech from whom I purchased the car. I know he didn't have to do anything tricky to make the swap.

However, it IS possible that the scrapyard from which he purchased the motor could have been mistaken. This sounds like the most likely situation.

[Bigvinnie]

Well I've been doing a bit of reading on the dry sump wet sump deal. Obviously the dry sump is better, BUT IT COST MORE.There are cheaper alternatives for those using girdles on the KA24 240sx's.A wet sump can hold up pretty good with a baffled pan, scraper and windage tray, and it is a bit more cost effective than a dry sump system imo.Can't the girdles be removed on the 240sx KA24's with some minor changes anyways?

Windage trays

Scraper

[S13 240SX]

are those oil pans also already drilled and tapped for fitings with turbo oil lines???

[KATwo40]

Those aren't oil pans. They're the bottoms of the engines, displaying the windage trays bolted to the girdles. I think you're seeing the dipstick tube port.

[Bigvinnie]

I think he was talking about the dry sumps....

[S13 240SX]

yes i was bigvinnie

[S13 240SX]

I was asking about this..

that's what i'm asking about the oil pan.. it looks like it has the fittings drilled and tapped for turbo lines? or no?

[TheOne]

no, thats the fittings for the external oil pump that is used to send oil from an external tank to the sump, then the oil pump inside the engine takes care of the rest.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

[KATwo40]

You could easily incorporate the turbo lines into that system, though.

[s14 2510's]

In a dry sump system you would not draw oil for a turbo from the oil pan would you. You would take it from the pressure line going into the engine. The two fittings on the bottom of the pan are scavanges to pull oil out of the lower end to reduce crank windage. The oil feed going into the engine would go into the the old oil filter location. There would be a screen filter in the scavange lines to catch big chunks of mettal and a better filter in the feed line to filter out the small particals before they enter the engine. That is a 3 stage dry sump. On a 4 stage dry sump there is a scavange in the head to pull excess oil out of the head so it does not pool. Correct me if im wrong. I have been looking into a drysump for my rb26 for some time. So I am in no way an expert on this subject. But I do know some about it.

[S13 240SX]

so there is no way to use this and plus going turbo and running the turbo lines to it?

[deviousKA]

A dry sump has multiple pressure feed lines and scavenge lines, a turbocharger is just another feed and scavenge to add to the system.

A dry sump pan is intended to hold as little oil as possible. As you can see that pan has 2-4 scavenge points. The oil drops into that small cavity and is sucked out by the scavenge lines asap. It is designed to hold maybe 1/4 qt of oil during operation.

You normally have multiple scavenges all over the block (and head), at least 2 pumps, an external reseviour and external oil filters in the system.

EDIT:Here is some dry sump examples.

Z series

Art schmitt team ka24de

60's era LZ twincam rally engine.

[KATwo40]

Ummm...you couldn't tee off of the oil supply line for the turbo feed and tee into the scavenge port for the drain?

Doesn't sound so bad to me.

[s14 2510's]

I have helped my buddy and his dad with there blown hemi dry sumped engines. They use 4 stage pumps one pressure feed in the block, two scavenges out of pan, one scavenge out of the heads. The scavenges lead to a 14 quart external tank with 12gt of actual oil to hold all the oil that is scavenged out. The pressure line is sucked out of the bottom of the holding tank. Each scavenge and pressure has its own chamber in the pump. So in a 3 stage you would need a 3 chambered pump and in a 4 you would need a 4 chambered pump. I don't see why you couldn't put a t with a reducer in the pressure line to supply oil to the turbo and have the oil return into one of the scavenges before the pump. You could do what he said but that would add up the $ fast as 4 or 5 stage pump costs more bling. I just don't see you needing a separate scavenge or pressure for a turbo. A correctly set up 3 stage like im planing to run on my rb would set you back 1200 at the least. With the 4 or 5 that you are talking about you would be at 1800 at the least. I just don't know why you would need to spend all the extra $. I chose to put a reducer in my head of my rb so I would not have to run the sump from the head. Then less oil will be pumped up there and it will not be pooling as bad.

[slpr240]

A dry sump has multiple pressure feed lines and scavenge lines, a turbocharger is just another feed and scavenge to add to the system.

A dry sump pan is intended to hold as little oil as possible. As you can see that pan has 2-4 scavenge points. The oil drops into that small cavity and is sucked out by the scavenge lines asap. It is designed to hold maybe 1/4 qt of oil during operation.

You normally have multiple scavenges all over the block (and head), at least 2 pumps, an external reseviour and external oil filters in the system.

EDIT:Here is some dry sump examples.

Z series

Art schmitt team ka24de

60's era LZ twincam rally engine.

would you happen to have anymore pics of the Art Schmitt Team ka24de? Like some closer pics or of the actual engine bay or anything?

Thanx

[KATwo40]

I'd just use a waterbed pump from Wal-mart...four of 'em in a series.

[tonynalli]

holy crap thats some complex ****..

[deviousKA]

I do have a few pictures of that ka24de let me see if I can dig them up.

[deviousKA]

Ed Pink



The KA